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Coastal Landforms

1. Coastal Processes
The coastal system constantly acts upon the coastline, shaping it through processes such as erosion, deposition and sub-aerial processes. These three processes are often confused, but they are different and have different consequences on the shape and formation of the coastline.

Term
Erosion

Definition and Types

Active, moving processes that lead to the wearing away of rock. The four main types of coastal erosion are: Hydraulic action, where air in cracks in the cliff are compressed as the wave pounds them in. Abrasion, where particles of sediment smash against the surface of the cliff, breaking more of it off. Solution, where soluble rocks like limestone are dissolved in the slightly acidic water Attrition, where particles of already eroded rock smash against each other, breaking them into smaller, rounded pieces. The process by which sediment is dropped due to the water having insufficient energy to transport it. Refer to all the processes that are not linked with the action of the sea. They can be classed into three categories: Weathering, this weakens the cliff and makes it more vulnerable to erosion. For example, freeze thaw. Mass movement, which is the movement of material downhill due to gravity, including landslides and slumping. Throughflow and surface run-off over the cliff face. In times of especially heavy rain, this process can saturate the cliff, making it heavier and more vulnerable to mass movement.

Deposition Sub-aerial processes

Rhys Wall The rate at which a coastline is eroded depends on several factors: 1. The presence and width of a beach. Beaches protect coastlines from erosion by slowing waves down, so a large beach with a long distance between the low and high tide marks will offer more protection. The beach may also cause the waves to break earlier. 2. The aspect. This is the direction the coastline faces. If the coast faces the dominant wind and wave direction, it is clear that rate of erosion will be higher. 3. The fetch of the waves. Waves with a longer fetch (distance over which they have travelled) are generally higher and steeper, so will have more energy and will cause more erosion. 4. The rock type. Hard rocks, like granite, are more resistant, so will erode slower than soft rocks, like boulder clay.

2. Types of Coastline
Coastlines can generally be sorted into two categories concordant and discordant. Although any one part of the coastline may not fit exactly into these categories due to the complex nature of geology, it is helpful to think of it as simply as possible. A concordant coastline (right) is one which has bands of alternating hard and soft rock running parallel to the coastline.

SEA
Hard Rock Soft Rock Hard Rock

SEA
Hard Rock Soft Rock Hard Rock Soft Rock

Soft Rock
A discordant coastline (left) is one which has bands of alternating hard and soft rock running perpendicular (at right angles) to the coastline.

A good way to remember which way around they go is to think that coves form on concordant coastlines (explained later).

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3. Types of Wave
There are two main types of wave constructive, and destructive. Constructive waves (right) are responsible for the construction of depositional features. They can be identified by their low, long appearance and low frequency typically 6 to 8 per minute. Their swash is weaker than their backwash, so they deposit sediment. Destructive waves (left) are responsible for forming erosive landforms. They are steep, high waves with a higher frequency about 10-14 per minute. They have a more powerful backwash than swash, so erode sediment.

4. Headlands and Bays

Headlands and bays are a very common landform, found on discordant coastlines. 1. The prevailing wind and waves erode the cliff. 2. The soft rock is less resistant to the erosion, so is worn away quicker, this forms a bay. 3. The hard rock is more resistant, so remains sticking out into the sea further a headland 4. Since the waves going into the bay have less energy due to refraction, sediment is likely to be deposited in the bay to form a beach. 5. Over time, due to refraction, the hard rock will be eroded, causing it to retreat back into the bay.
Wind and Waves

SEA
Hard Rock Soft Rock Hard Rock Soft Rock Hard Rock

SEA
Soft Rock Hard Soft Rock Rock

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5. Wave-Cut Notches and Wave-Cut Platforms

1. The foot of the cliff is eroded by the action of the sea, undercutting it. 2. A wave-cut notch (indentation into the foot of the cliff) is formed. The overlying rock is weathered and weakened. 3. The overlying rock gives in to the force of gravity and collapses. The rock falls into the notch and forms a flat platform as it is eroded. Over time this process will lead to the retreat of the cliff.

6. Coves
Coves are a less common coastal landform. They are found on concordant coastlines. 1. A fault in the hard rock (caused by sub aerial processes) suffers from high intensity erosion over time. 2. The fault grows larger and larger until it breaks through to the band of soft rock. 3. The soft rock becomes eroded much quicker than the hard rock, so a circular shape cove is formed. 4. Since the cove is so sheltered, waves are likely to be constructive within the cove, so a beach may be built up over time.
Wind and Waves Wind and Waves

SEA
Hard Rock Soft Rock Hard Rock Soft Rock

SEA
Hard Rock Soft Rock Hard Rock Soft Rock
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7. Spits, Bars and Salt Marshes

Spits and bars are formed by the process of longshore drift. 1. The direction of the prevailing winds, and Wind and therefore the direction of Waves waves is at an angle to the beach. 2. This causes the swash to be at an angle to the beach. The waves push sediment up the beach at an angle Beach 3. If the waves have a strong Direction of longshore drift backwash, they will pull back sediment down the beach. This occurs at right angles due to gravity. 4. Gradually, sediment is pushed up and down the beach. This causes large volumes of sediment to migrate towards one end.

SEA

Spits are formed when the direction of longshore drift pushes sediment into an estuary or a bay. 1. Waves approach the beach at an angle. 2. Longshore drift moves sediment into a river estuary. The sediment forms a spit. 3. The stagnant water behind the spit develops into mudflats and salt marshes. 4. The original coastline is now protected from erosion by a spit and salt marsh. 5. Water in the river channel ends its course by flowing through the estuary. 6. The end of the spit is recurved at the end by occasional changes in the wind and wave direction. The spit continually grows further into the channel. 7. The fastest flow of water from the river is in the middle of the channel. The erosive power of river prevents the spit from reaching the other side of the river mouth. A bar would be formed if the spit reached the other side of the mouth, or bay, with a lagoon behind it. 5

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8. Tombolos
1. The process of longshore drift transports sediment along a beach. 2. A spit forms, coming off of the headland. 3. Eventually, as the spit grows, it joins up with an offshore island, connecting it to the mainland.

9. Caves, Blow Holes, Arches, Stacks and Stumps

1. A fault or joint occurs naturally in the cliff, or one is formed by sub aerial processes. 2. A blow hole may form if water rushes up the joint, causing high hydraulic pressure, which causes the roof of the cliff to collapse. 3. A sea cave is formed when the area around joints are eroded. 4. An arch is formed when a sea cave is eroded through to the other side of the headland. 5. The sides of the arch are eroded, and the force of gravity causes the arch roof to collapse. 6. An isolated stack is formed when the arch roof collapses. 7. The top of the stack is eroded and weathered, until it is no longer exposed at high tide it is now called a stump. 6

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10.

Beaches

Beaches are a depositional feature found almost everywhere along our coastline. They play an important role in protecting our coastal settlements from cliff retreat and for the tourism industry.

1. Constructive waves deposit sediment on the shoreline. 2. If the sediment is large, a pebble beach with a steep, narrow profile will accumulate. If the sediment is small, a sandy beach will form. Sandy beaches normally have a wider, flatter profile. Beaches can have a combination of these sediment sizes and features. 3. Berms (1-2 metre high ridges of sand and pebbles) may form at the high tide mark. Theyre formed when coarse material is deposited by the swash. 4. Runnels are grooves in the beach material that run parallel to the shoreline. Theyre formed when the backwash erodes sediment as is drains into the sea. 5. A cusp is a crescent shaped indentation into the shoreline which forms when there is a large tidal range and waves break parallel to the beach.

11.

Sand Dunes

1. The wind blows sand particles up the beach. 2. The particles begin to accumulate in berms or on driftwood. 3. Plants like marram grass colonise. 4. The roots of the plants support and stabilise the dune, encouraging more sediment to accumulate. 7

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12. Landform

Summary Erosive or Depositional?

Erosive Erosive

UK Example
Very common found along almost Britains entire coastline. The Eastern end of Exmouth Beach.

Headlands and bays Wave cut notches and wave cut platforms Coves Spits and bars Tombolos Caves, blowholes, arches, stacks and stumps

Erosive Depositional Depositional Erosive

Lulworth Cove, Dorset. Spit Spurn head, Holderness. Bar Netherfield Lagoons, Nottinghamshire. St Michaels Mount, Cornwall. Cave Many, scattered around our coastline. Blowhole Wheal Coates, Cornwall. Arch Durdle door, Dorset. Stack Old Harry, Swanage. Stump Old Harrys wife, Swanage. Everywhere along the coast! (nearly). Exmouth, Devon. Dawlish Warren, Devon.

Beaches Sand dunes Salt marshes

Depositional Depositional Depositional