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PLASTERS 2 3 3 4 4 4 5 5 6 6 7 7 8 8 9 9 10 11 Earth and Lime Plasters Cement Stucco Choose Plaster for Bag Fill & Climate BUILDING WITH WEAK SOIL Improving Weak Soil BUILDING WITH RICH CLAY Building on Swelling Clay Soil Using Swelling Clay Soil in Bags Improving Rich Clay Soil Reducing Swelling STABILIZING SOILS Stabilizing to Strengthen Stabilizing to Resist Water Absorption Test When to Stabilize Selective Stabilization Notes References
Copyright 2010 Patti Stouter and www.earthbagbuilding.com This work can be used according to the following Creative Commons License:
Above right: A strong earth bag of heavy clay wicked water up 3 cm in 10 minutes Right: Although it was still strong in the middle, one corner collapsed after soaking for 24 hours
PLASTERS
Strong earthbag buildings must protect the bags from sunlight. This is especially important in places with high risk of earthquake or tsunami. Choose a plaster that works well with the soil in your bags and your climate. All soils work well with a lime or earth plaster. On some soils in some climates earthbags can have cement stucco. Right: A thick earth plaster applied by hand Middle Right: A thin earth plaster applied by machine
EARTH PLASTER
Many different clays can be used for earth plaster, including colorful earths. Earth plaster can very light in color, and sturdy and dust-free. It does wear if frequently wetted. Since all soils are different, using an earth plaster will require some local knowledge or some testing. The available soil may need additives, burnishing, or an added thin clay paint to make an attractive surface. Earth plaster is good for interiors in humid climates, or exterior finishing in very dry climates. With a water-repellant agent sprayed on, an earthen plaster may be suitable for exterior use. Siloxane soaks into earth plaster, allows water vapor to pass through, but keeps liquid water out.
LIME PLASTER
Lime plaster resists wear and water better than earth plaster. It hardens more slowly and is less brittle than cement. Lime plaster breathes to let water vapor through, but forms a barrier to liquid water. This allows earth walls to dry out. Lime has been the standard finish for earth buildings in the Mediterranean and other regions for centuries. Right: Very fine cracking in lime plaster seals when lime wash unites with it Lime plaster expands and contracts in a similar way to raw earth. Cracks are usually small and can be easily repaired with lime wash painted on or added plaster. Lime plasters are often applied on top of an earth infill layer used to fill the cracks between bags. This reduces the amount of lime needed. Lime plaster is made of hydrated or type S lime mixed with water and then mixed with 3 times (or up to 6 or 10 times for inside plaster) as much sand. This type of plaster dries slowly, allowing reworking for up to an hour depending on temperature. It is much easier for ordinary people to work with than quick-drying gypsum plaster or cement stucco.
Lime plaster is used for exteriors in humid climates under a roof overhang or fully exposed in dry climates. It works well in high use areas that receive accidental kicks or blows, as well as kitchens and baths where humidity is higher. It can also receive a coating of water-repellant like Siloxane.
CEMENT STUCCO
Portland cement is a stiffer material than earth or lime plasters. Because it does not expand and contract as much as raw earth materials do, it is more likely to crack. It attracts water, and doesnt dry out well. If it cracks, an entire thick layer must be added because thin mixes or thin layers of cement do not bind to each other well. Portland cement can cause problems in earth buildings because it attracts water and traps water vapor. Adobe buildings in areas with frost have decayed badly when covered with cement stucco. In some areas and over some types of bag fill cement stucco may work well on earthbags. The choice must be carefully made. Above: This cement stucco used a weak mix, and cannot be easily repaired
Soil with medium clay Soil with minimum clay Cement stucco, lime or earth plaster Can make buildings moldy
Stabilized earthbags Gravel or rubble bags near ground level Angular light gravel (pumice or scoria) Loose Sand or Weak Soil Rice hulls, etc.
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Semisolid fill
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Cement stucco to Strong lime plaster Cement stucco to protect from protect from rain/ (optional: cement snow/ rain splashback stucco) Reinforced cement stucco or lime plaster with a strong structural mesh and cement anchors to fasten barbed wire
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Loose fill
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stucco structural skin with cement anchors to fasten barbed wire Infill only- not structural
Gravel bag footings have rebar spiked through them to hold them in place. Pumice or scoria requires extra vertical rebar unless it is angular enough to settle well and not roll and is used in a non-seismic risk region. 2 Bags filled with these are not really earthbags and must be reinforced differently. 3 Barbed wire, important for tensile strength, is not held well by loose fill. Anchors are a small block of cement located occasionally between bags to keep wire from pulling out. 3
If working with expansive clays, any wood, metal or glass should not be set in place and attached until the building is completely dry. An expansion joint between window and door frames and the bags could help prevent cracking in the event of a temporary leak in the plaster.
REDUCING SWELLING
Some expansive clays become non-expansive if they are well compacted when somewhat wet. They will still shrink while curing, but will not swell again. This type of partial mechanical stabilization would be worthwhile testing if builders can be careful to tamp all of the walls equally well. A heavy clay soil can make a very strong wall. Right: Tamping with a metal tool Fibers are also helpful to reduce swelling, but must be chosen for the climate. Straw or other natural materials mixed with very damp soil in a humid climate may start to mold before the earth can dry. Chopped straw pre-treated with lime wash and dried may be calcified enough to form a significant part of the bag fill without being vulnerable to termites or mold. Plastics or waste materials may be useful as fibers in humid areas with high levels of termite activity. 4 cm long plastic fibers or 1% by volume can reduce the expansion of a problem soil by 30%. Other fibers used to reduce cracking and expansion in rich clay soils include horse dung, human and animal hair, needles from evergreen trees, or fiber from coconuts, sisal, agave or bamboo. Adding material to rich clays takes energy. Some people loosen and dampen the soil, throw sand or soil on, and have cattle or horses trample it in. Others chop it with a hoe, spread it thinly on a tarp and crush it with their feet when it is dry. Left: Working long straw into an infill plaster layer by hand
2- 5% of a stabilizer will often reduce the amount a soil will swell. But it can also reduce the strength of some kinds of clay. For some soils, 5- 7% of a stabilizer will reduce how quickly the soil is eroded by rainfall. But it still may not be enough stabilizer to prevent earth fill soaking up water and softening over long exposure, like during a flood. Right: This bag of an expansive clay mixed with sand and wood ash (20: 2: 1) was very strong and only swelled 1.7% when wetted, but was not water-resistant.
STABILIZING SOILS
Some chemicals or biological agents added to soils make them more rock-like. A fully stabilized soil will not absorb or give off water or vapor very well. It becomes stiff. It does not weather much, and can no longer be recycled to other forms when the building is not needed. Brown concrete made of earth with 5- 10% Portland cement or other stabilizers costs much more than soil with clay added. Because earthbag walls are wide, a lot of stabilizer is needed. If the bag fill is compatible with an unbreathable stucco covering, using a rich cement stucco with wire mesh reinforcing may cost less than completely stabilizing earthbag walls.
STABILIZING TO STRENGTHEN
Some builders assume that adding Portland cement will always make earthbag walls better able to resist earthquake damage. This is probably not true. Too little lime and/ or cement actually weakens some soils. But most importantly, buildings that can flex slightly survive severe quakes with little damage. Raw earth tamped and cured in bags can still flex when vibrated. Flexible buildings dampen the vibrations of an earthquake, while stiff buildings can amplify them. Stabilizing earthbag walls may make them slightly heavier and much stiffer and more brittle. Weak soils that do not hold together must have some type of binder to strengthen them. The mixes must be carefully tested. Different stabilizers work best with different soils. If available soils are too loose, combinations of lime, cement, gypsum (Plaster of Paris), bitumen and ash can be added to them. The cheaper stabilizers like ash or bitumen may be somewhat toxic and should be handled carefully. Ash is a mild cementing agent, so waste from burning sugar cane waste or rice hulls, or fly ash from industrial waste can reduce the amount of lime or cement needed. And because earthbags are covered in plaster, any toxic materials will be encased . If bitumen is used, there may still be some outgassing of asphaltic fumes through the plaster layer into the interior. A compressive strength test can show minimum amounts of stabilizers needed for a soil. Ask local earth builders about strength tests used on earth blocks. Earthbag may not need to be quite as strong if the wall is wider. If builders are not used to doing compressive strength tests, a wood beam can be made into a lever for a simple test. A description of this test is on pages 38- 40 of an old book by Lyle Wolfskill at http://www.scribd.com/doc/23245558/Handbook-for-Building-Homes-of-Earth.
ABSORPTION TEST
The most accurate test for resistance to water is to place a cured block (at least 1 week old) removed from its bag on a rack in a pan. Measure the weight of the dry block of earth first. Fill the pan until the block is 6 mm (1/8 inch) deep in water. A hole at this level (or bending the lip down on one side) will keep the water level the same with water dripping slowly in. If the weather is hot and dry, cover the top of the block loosely with a piece of plastic or waxed paper to keep the top from air drying. Check the block at 5 minutes, 1 hour, 2 hours, 4 hours, 8 hours, and 24 hours. Measure how high the water level creeps up the block, and how much it weighs. If a block begins to visibly erode,it is not fully stabilized. Left: The smooth-surfaced block shown on page 7 Below left: After 15 minutes the bottom of the block is soft and eroded
To test an unstabilized soil for swelling, tap 2 small nails into the upper surface of the dry block at a certain distance apart. If the water in the pan begins to get cloudy, it is probably eroding the block. Do not disturb it. After 24 hours have passed, carefully measure the distance between the two nails to see if this modified soil swells less than it swelled without any additives.
WHEN TO STABILIZE
Adding enough Portland cement and/ or lime will make a building that needs less protection from flooding or leaks. But it can also create a building that is less flexible, hotter, or more sweaty. And it will certainly create a less sustainable building. Because stabilized earth is denser than raw earth, stabilized earth buildings can hold heat longer. This makes dew condense on them in humid climates, and results in more mold growth. Raw or unstabilized earth walls and plaster discourage mold growth by preventing walls sweating. They also have been proven to even out the interior humidity highs and lows, which is very important for comfort in humid tropical regions. Earth buildings require approximately 1% of the energy input required for brick or concrete buildings. Stabilizers do not always improve earth buildings. They must be carefully chosen for the soil and building needs. Left: Proper bag fill is as important as building plumb and level A small one room building could require as much as 60 bags of Portland cement to stabilize it if the soil needs a 10% mix. About 70% of a 42 kg (94 lb) bag of pure Portland cement will be needed to reach a 5% mix for each 30 cm (one foot) length of standard wall (2.4 m / 8 high wall 38 cm/ 15 inches thick). So a single 3 x 3.6m (10 x 12 foot) room would require about 30 bags of pure Portland cement for the walls. To an NGO the cost of this much cement may not seem prohibitive. But one of the goals of appropriate development is to introduce technologies that are useful to nationals. In the developed world, a single bag of Portland cement may cost a laborer an hours work. In the developing world, a bag of cement often costs two or more days work. When income is limited, it cannot be so lightly spent. Introducing fully cement-stabilized earth buildings will limit this technology to the most prosperous people, who could afford to spend the time building (or pay laborers) and also take 4 months more to earn the money for this much cement.
SELECTIVE STABILIZATION
At present, most engineers prefer using the traditional formulas developed for cement or masonry buildings when designing earthbag structures. Until more testing of raw earthbag buildings has been completed, composite structures may be simpler to get engineered for institutional buildings. Right: Stabilized buttresses reinforce a small school building for Leogane, Haiti An engineer can specify the stresses in a stabilized buttress with a reinforced concrete footing. If these are tied well to standard raw earthbag walls they can allow the more flexible walls between buttresses to vibrate softly between the buttresses. 9
A raw earthbag building with only selected structural elements stabilized may experience much less overall stress during a quake than a fully stabilized building. It will also result in less expense for stabilizers like Portland cement. And buildings will be less subject to mold if the majority of walls can breathe and improve interior humidity levels.
NOTES
Information on how to test soils for earthbag buildings is contained in Soils for Earthbag Part 1: Testing Soil These ebooklets are part of an information series developed by the team at www.earthbagstructures.com. Check the website for the latest updates, including new test results and the best strategies to prepare earthbag buildings for seismic areas or building code requirements. We may have recent information that is not yet posted. We welcome information, comments, and help to translate how-to manuals. All my ebooks are available at http://www.scribd.com/patti_stouter. Short videos demonstrating construction by Owen Geiger are also available online at http://www.youtube.com/user/naturalhouses. This document relies heavily on the expert advice of Owen Geiger of www.grisb.org and Kelly Hart of www.greenhomebuilding.com. Many thanks as well to Nadir Khalili for beginning this technology, and numerous other earthbag builders who have shared their wisdom. Owen and I like to give free plan review or project advice to aid workers when we can. Contact Owen at strawhouses@yahoo.com or me at handshapedland@yahoo.com. We may be able to point out a detail that a designer or builder new to earthbag or to reinforced straight-wall earthbag buildings would not yet know. We have several free plans available on the internet, and can help with custom plans. Aid workers can also ask for access to our private earthbag blog about building in the developing world. We may be able to refer local builders, architects, or engineers experienced with earthbag. As a building designer and landscape architect concentrating on the developing world, I try to suit buildings to the local culture and climate. I travel and work remotely from my southern NY home. I may also be able to assist with preliminary soil testing, site plans, or earthbag construction training. Above: Extra time to test and discuss soils is well spent Photos of training sessions or structures shown: Cover, middle of page 6, top page 9, and this page- Test structure by Liam Ream and the University of Cincinnati Haiti relief team built at Veterans Park in Cynthiana, Kentucky. Rotary volunteers and college interns used buckets filled by a backhoe to fill bags, which were stacked on pallets and transported as needed by tractor. Top and bottom page 6- training session with Jessa and Nate Turner at Homegrown Hideaways near Berea, Kentucky. Photos and graphics by the author except the following used by permission: Top and middle page 2 and top page 3 from www.earthbagbuilding.com. Cover, middle of page 6, top page 9, and this page- from the University of Cincinnati Orange Tree Atelye.
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REFERENCES
Plasters: Cedar Rose Guelberth and Dan Chiras, The Natural Plaster Book, (Gabriola Island, BC: New Society, 2009) Lime and earth plaster formulation, testing and application, and clay paints. John Straube, Moisture Properties of Plaser and Stucco for Strawbale Buildings,BalancedSolutions.com undated paper available at http://members.westnet.com.au/ejt/pdf/Straube_Moisture_Tests.pdf Information about siloxane is also available at http://masonry-sealer.com/amteco-silox-seal.html Swelling Clays: George Reeves, Sims, I., Cripps, J.C. (eds.), Clay Materials Used in Construction, (Bath, UK: Geological Society of London, 2006) 101 and 114 Compacting to stabilize Minke 24 Swelling clays dont swell with humidity Tropical Clays: Reeves 113- 118
Rich Clays: personal email to the author from Paulina Wojciechowska Plaster recommendations for rich clays Minke 40 Fibers as additives in soil Stabilizing to Strengthen: Bilge Isik, Gypsum Adobe Construction Technology, Architecture Institute of California, accessed at www.kerpic.org/alker_technology.htm Gypsum and lime mixtures When to Stabilize: Minke, mentioned in Reeves 398 Low embodied energy of earth buildings Absorption Test: Lyle Wolfskill, Handbook for Building Homes of Earth (Washington, DC: Department of Housing and Urban Development and Peace Corps, 1981) 38- 39 and compressive strength test on pages 39- 40 Earth Building Standards g: ASTM E2392/E2392M 10 Standard Guide for Design of Earthen Wall Building Systems, W. Conshohocken, PA: 2010 available online at www.astm.org Engineers or architects may be interested in this new international earth building code. NZS 4299/1998: Earth Buildings Not Requiring Specific Design The ASTM document recommends this and its companion volumes 4297 and 4298 which deal with standards for engineering earth buildings and materials specifications. These are all available for purchase online at www.standards.co.nz The New Zealand standards contain many construction details, as well as helpful charts to size and locate bracing walls appropriately for single story earth structures topped with light or heavy roofs, or with a second level of wood construction. They also contain recommendations for durability of earth or lime finish layers and extent of roof overhangs for walls exposed to different intensities of rain and wind. 11