Planning Your Garden

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The Amateur's Book of
PLANNING YOUR GARDEN
the
Garden Series
of
Under the General Editorship
LEONARD BARRON
The Vegetable Garden

Planning Your Garden
Lawn-Making
House Plants
The Flower Garden The

Dahlla.
Gardening Lnder Glass
This suggestion for a small garden, looking east, embodies the author's ideas of having several points of interest. The placing of the walk to the north side and its change of direction at the dial takes full advantage of the conditions.
the
Garden Series
COPYRIGHT,
1911, 1923,
BY
DOUBLEDAY, PAGE & COMPANY ALL RIGHTS RESERVED, INCLUDING THAT OF TRANSLATION INTO FOREIGN LANGUAGES, INCLUDING THE SCANDINAVIAN
PRINTED IN THE UNITED STATES AT LIFE PRESS, GARDEN CITY, N. T
First Edition
THE COUNTRY
PUBLISHER'S PREFACE
There are several
is
justifications for the ap-
pearance of a book on Garden Planning.

received
One
the meagre treatment the subject has hereas
tofore
compared with the more
mechanical phases of garden making

ing,
plantvital,
cultivating,
etc.
Another
is
the
though often unappreciated, importance of the

subject, especially in this
day of countryward,
outdoorward tendencies.
the cash valuation of the
The significance of work of the land-
scape architect
when
contrasted with that of
the gardener
is
not often grasped.

is
This volume, however,
designed for those

use of the serviEither
who
are not inclined to
make
ces of a professional garden designer.
excessive cost or intense personal interest in
the development of the

effect this result.
In either case he
home grounds may who plans

familiarize him-
his
self
own garden
will
do well to
with the principles, methods, and probable

V
results as set forth herein.
VI
PUBLISHER
PREFACE
The ultimate ideas of art, taste, judgment, and harmony are not local but universal and this volume carries to the reader both the author's
originality of treatment
and the conventionality
of theories well founded in long experience.
CONTENTS
I.
Introductory
II.
III.
IV.
V.
VI. VII.
VIII.
The Factors in Detail The Garden Picture The Rectilinear Principle .... The Elements of the Garden Plan Making Beds and Borders .... Construction of Walks and Drives
.
9 28
45 51
IX.
X. XI. XII.
XIII.
Grass as a Foundation to Plan a Garden Sloping Gardens
70 87 108
127
141
How
XIV.
The Rock Garden The Rose Garden Water in the Garden The Vegetable Garden
Glass Fences and Hedges Tile and Other Artificial Edgings Garden Plans Planting Further Considerations in Garden
.
152
173
183
197
XV.
XVI. XVII. XVIII.
207 212
229
236
263
XIX.
XX.
XXI.
Making
Evolution of an Ideal Lot
....
279 291
ILLUSTRATIONS
Perspective View of Garden
FIGURE
1.
....
Frontispiece
PAGE
2.
3. 4.
5.
6.
7.
8. 9.
10. 11. 12. 13.

14. 15.
16.
17.
Diagrams Illustrating Aspect Houses on Plots of Irregular Shape Garden Styles Compared Expansion of Path Expansion of Path Expansion of Path Path Junction Curves in Paths The Grouping of Beds Correct Form for Group of Beds ... Trenching Drainage for Beds and Borders Shapes of Beds Shapes of Beds Relation Between Beds in a Group Entrance to Drive
. .
21
25
48 54
59
60
61
62
65
68
73
....
76 80
81
...
83
The Carriage-turn
Path Foundation Design for Brick Path Section of Brick Path Design for Composite Path Design FOR Stone Path Design for Stone Path Level and Straight-edge Tennis Court
ix
89 90
95
18.
19.
20.
98 100
102
21.
22. 23.
24.
25.
106
106
116
117
X
PICnXX
ILLUSTRATIONS
PAGE
26. 27.
28.
29.
Croquet Court Acute Angles IN Grass Beds in Relation to Grass Shapes Typical Garden Plan
OF Off-sets Arrangement OF Trees Terracing Sectional View Terracing Sectional View Terracing Sectional View Steps in Paths
118
121
. .
123
131 131
30.
31.
The Method
32. 33. 34.
136 142
142
143
35. 36. 37.
144
. . .
Dealing with a Transverse Slope Dealing with a Transverse Slope

Steps Spreading Steps
145
146
149 150 160
161
38.
39.
40.
41. 42. 43.

44. 45. 46.
47.
Earthwork in the Rock Garden RocKWORK Section
....
48. 49.
50. 51. 52.
Rocks in Relation to Soil Arrangement of Rock Masses Arrangements of Rock Masses Arrangements of Peat in the Rock Garden Rose Beds in Grass Rose Beds in Gravel A Long Rose Garden Planting Roses
162
163
.... ....
165
166
176
176
178
180
185
A Water Garden A Water Garden

Soak-away Drain Ponds Tub for Water Plants Borders Through the Vegetable Plot Position for Vegetable Plots
187 189
53.
54.
190
195
.
5556.
198
204
ILLUSTRATIONS
riGimE
XI
PAGE
57.
58. 59.
Wooden Fencing Stretching Wire Fencing Open Wooden Fencing

Larch Fencing
Construction OF Trellis Screen
Sections of
214 217 218
60.
61. 62.
220
....
221
Hedge
225
63.
64. 65. 66. d^. 68.
Hedge Tops Planting Box Edging

Edging Tile Brick Edgings The Plinth Brick as an Edging Stone Edgings Sections
226
227 230 232
233
....
.
234
239-262
.
69
lOI
102.
.
Garden Plans
Arrangement of Herbaceous Border
>
270
103.)
104. 105.
Progressive Plans for a Typical Lot
295-297

CHAPTER
I
Introductory
to
The planning of a garden involves many considerations connected
attention
with the
its
character and position of the site and
sur-
roundings, as well as to those questions in which
both horticulture and good taste play important

parts.
particular site presents a problem in and the art of the garden maker must be exercised first in studying the factors, and then in permitting them to guide him to a good result. What these factors are will appear
itself,
Each
when
come
to details.
It
is
sufficient at
the
outset to state that they include such inherent

conditions as
soil,
position, aspect,
and envimeasure
ronment.
Though garden making

3
in a large
4
is
GARDEN PLANNING
controlled
by
principles
based upon
art,
purely artistic considerations can only serve

the designer
when they
are subordinated to
the practical needs of horticulture.
As
in other
first
branches of applied art utility
claims
consideration, so in garden
making
the conditions which
make
for the welfare of
the flowers, and the comfort and convenience

of those
who
use the garden,
must always
receive attention.
This does not imply that successful flower

culture
is
for that
the be-all and end-all of gardening, would be to ignore the beauty of the
It
is
garden picture.
to give
possible, as I shall show,
due weight to the picturesque, without in the slightest measure discounting the value of the garden from a horticultural standpoint.
On
the other hand, only

is
too frequently the
mistake
made
of supposing that well-filled
beds and borders, abundant blossom, and neatly kept grass and walks are the sole desiderata
of gardening.
If
that were so,

as the
in
to
grow one's flowers

his
it were better market gardener
grows
sion of
cabbages
will
rows.
Mere
is
profu-
bloom
not condone any ill-planned

enthusiast
garden.
The gardening
too apt
INTRODUCTORY
to permit his pride in the flowers to blind
to the value of a garden picture.
him
He
sees the
individual but not the crowd.
It
were better
he should adopt the standpoint of the landscape

gardener,
who
thinks less of plants as plants

in a composition, in the
than as elements
way
of a painter of pictures.
The garden, however

treatment on truly
first
small,
is
artistic principles,
is
amenable to and the
thing to recognize
It should
that
it
must be homoEvery-
geneous.
before
it
appeal to the eye as a whole
claims attention in detail.
thing in the garden must be interdependent,
and the general picture must be distinguished
by balance, unity of effect, and a studied harmony of line and mass. If common-sense principles, based upon full knowledge and recognition of the governing
factors of the problem, be allowed to control
the design, the result will not only
make
for
beauty, but gardening, in the sense of successful flower culture, will

sailing.
be agreeable and plain
features,
There must be no exaggeration of special no discordant note to worry the eye,

effects.
no forcing of
The
size of the
garden
GARDEN PLANNING
It
is
hardly enters into the question.

easy,
just as
and just
in
as difficult, to plan a large
garden
as a small one.
The same
It
is
general principles
largely a question
apply
both cases.
of scale.
Gardens
which are made haphazard
are
rarely successful,
yet the majority of small
gardens have been so made.

obvious.
How
often do
The inference is we not see, from the
vantage point of some suburban railroad journey, garden after garden in monotonous succession,
all
planned to a
common
type.
Some may be
neat and well kept, others neglected, but the
same in all, probably conceived and made by the speculative builder's foreman, whose knowledge and skill can hardly be expected to rank high in this department
outlines are the
of his work.
When
the gardener himself has taken the
pains to model his garden to suit his
own
more
arise
views of what
it
should be, the result
is
often than not marred
by mistakes which
from hastiness and an inadequate knowledge

of,
or attention to, essentials.
Possibly the
commonest error is to ignore aspect, planning for symmetry, which is hardly ever consistent
INTRODUCTORY
with the best arrangement for flower growing

in
is
plot of limited
size.
Another mistake
to over-elaborate, thereby destroying sim-
and breadth of effect. do not intend to enumerate here all the shortcomings of the modern suburban garden. I hope to make them sufficiently apparent when I enter into a more detailed statement of the principles which I believe should govern the
plicity
I
planning of such gardens.

particularly
size,
Skilful
planning,
when applied to gardens of limited includes economy of space, or, in other

this
is
words, making the most of the space available.
And
only possible by giving proper
consideration to aspect.
in
The craze for symmetry prevails too strongly modern garden planning. Grass and gravel
are allowed to usurp positions best adapted

to flower culture, whilst long stretches of bor-
der in perpetual shade hold a few starved plants,
whose sorry condition proclaims the

equal-sidedness.
futility
of expecting nature to heed our notions of
Sunshine, the
life
and soul of the vegetable

first
kingdom, and the very

flower,
necessity for the
must have
full access to
our beds and
GARDEN PLANNING
and this is only them where the
Therefore
it is
borders,
to be contrived bysunlight can
placing
reach
them.
a necessary preliminary
to the planning of a small garden to observe
which parts of
it
enjoy
full
sunshine and which
parts lurk in perpetual shadow.
The north
side of the house or of a garden wall, in northern

latitudes, receives
no sunlight, and permanent

premises.
shadows
may
be cast by trees and buildings
on
neighbouring
These
shadows
are as rocks to the careful navigator, things
to be given a wide berth, unless circumstances

(as in the case of
redundant
trees)
permit of
our bodily removing their cause.
CHAPTER
The Factors The
ing a
II
in
is
Detail
question of site
so
one from the gardener's standpoint.
a highly important In acquirnot always pos-
home
for
many
considerations carry weight

it is
with the purchaser that

sible
him to
be over-fastidious
if
about
the garden; though,
he have the choice bein other respects
tween two or more houses,
equally desirable, he will naturally decide upon
that one which has the best garden
site.
If
the house has been previously occupied he

will
find
the garden already made, after a

if
fashion;
not, the
same may hold good. On

find a stretch of virgin
it
the other hand he

soil
may
awaiting his good pleasure to give
shape.
Whatever may have been done before he takes possession should not deter him from starting
de
novo.,
with the object of securing the best
possible arrangement of the outlines before he
commences to plant
it.
lO
GARDEN PLANNING
In considering the desirability of a garden
site
is
under these circumstances the main thing
to see that the plot receives a fair measure
of sunshine.
is
With
a house facing south,
it
not possible to avoid a considerable shadow

itself,
from the house

will
but
intelligent planning
meet
this
case.
garden
surrounded
by a high
wall also will have the disadvantage
of the wall shadows on the southern boundaries.
Naturally such questions arise most often
town and suburban gardens where houses and gardens adjoin. In the open country different considerations may prein connection with
sent themselves.
Most
generally the country
plot has no lack of sunshine.
But other disabilities may exist, amongst which the absence of shelter may be the most important one. The tenant, therefore, should
see
how
the site
lies,
both
in relation to the
prevailing winds
and to the cold winds of
winter and spring.
Gales from the west and south-west are often
very destructive to trees and plants by reason of their force alone.

the
cold
On
the other hand,
winds
from the north, north-east,

their low temperature
and east do damage by
THE FACTORS
IN DETAIL
II
and dryness, ''cutting" and destroying

growth, and retarding the
life
young
progress of plant
generally.
therefore,
The
is
ideal site for a
country
plot,
one
which
sheltered
is
open
to
the south and preferably sloping slightly in

that
direction,
partly
by higher
ground or trees to the west and south-west, and wholly sheltered to the north and north-
Such sites are not easy to find, and in most cases the tenant has to be content with something short of what he would wish; but, as I shall show, he may do much by artificial means to make good the shortcomings of the site. Another point more likely to crop up in
east.
the country
the
its
is
the question of the dryness of

is
soil,
which
intimately connected with
temperature, and thus affects the welfare
of the flowers.
The warmth
is
of a site, other
things being equal,

of the
soil.
influenced
by the nature by
Schiibler,
The
following table, compiled
shows the relative
heat-absorbing capacities
of various soils, assuming lOO as the standard:
Sand with some lime Pure sand

Light clay
lOO
95-6 76.9
12
GARDEN PLANNING
Heavy
Chalk
clay
71.1
Brick-earth
Humus
68.4 61.8 49-0
The
coldness of a
damp
site is
due to the
is
absorption of heat resulting from evaporation.
When the
prospective garden owner
able to
purchase rather than merely to rent the property the question of the garden site
receive
may
well
more earnest consideration. Individual tastes differ greatly on the ques-
tion of
what
is
or
is
not a valuable
seclusion,
site.
One
person
may account may

another
desire
prefer his
and on that small domain circumto
scribed
by natural
limits
the
view;
may
value the panoramic prospect to

the
be obtained from an eminence, finding

pleasures of his garden enhanced
by the landweight, but
scape beyond.
Other considerations
in all cases the
may have
proximity of an eyesore in the
immediate surroundings is to be avoided. Ugly buildings, waste land scattered with rubbish, small property inhabited by undesirable
people,
cemetery, factory,
or
gas
works should disqualify an otherwise desirable
THE FACTORS IN DETAIL

site,
unless
it
were feasible to screen those

means.
thing
to examine
its
objects
by
artificial
Thus
far I
have dealt with questions exter-
nal to the
site.
The next
is
the land with a view to discovering

sic fitness for its
intrin-
purpose as a garden.
house perched upon a hilltop, or in the

treeless field, has a bleak, forbidit
centre of a
ding aspect, which
may
take
many
years to
if
redeem.
plot
It
is
therefore a great gain
the
some well-grown trees, which may be utilized for shelter, and which will at once confer a certain distinction on the site. The presence of old hedgerows and bushes
includes
should also be welcomed, as

to utilize
it is
often possible
them
in the
garden scheme.
The contour
point.
of the
ground
if
is
an important
dis-
Sites, particularly
of limited extent,
which embrace considerable slopes are appointing, and present difficulties to

gardener which he had best avoid.
other hand, variety of contour
is
the
the
On
a gain,
oflFer-
ing suggestions for picturesque treatment
and
giving
character to
if
the
garden picture.
uniform slope,
tion,
is
slight
and
in a southerly direcit
preferable to a dead level, as
ensures
14
GARDEN PLANNING
natural drainage; but

sine
when
a tennis lawn
is
qua non it is desirable that some portion of the ground should be level, or have only a moderate slope; otherwise much expense will be entailed in excavating and banking up, and the artificial contours thus created become unduly obtrusive. Happy the
dener
will
gar-
who
is
content to forego this feature,
which rarely harmonizes with the other elements of the garden plan, and more often than
not
usurps
space
that
otherwise
could
be
utilized
with advantage to the garden picture.
In further considering the desirability of a

given
site it is well to try to fix provisionally
the position for the house, which in most cases

will
be suggested by the lay of the ground and by its aspect; and, having done so, to endeavour to form a mental picture of the main elements of the garden, giving due weight to the natural features of the ground and its
surroundings as factors in the arrangement.
By
far
doing so
it is
it
is
possible to judge just

ideal.
how
likely to
meet one's
In a comparatively small plot the process

will
be a simple one.
involve
In a large plot the matter

difficulty,
may
more
as
alternative
THE FACTORS
IN DETAIL
positions for the house will suggest themselves
and
be
call for consideration.
No
decision should
of
made
until
the possibilities
the
site
have been thoroughly tested from every standpoint.
The
linked
question of the house site
is
so closely
up with the treatment
of the garden
that
strongly advise this preliminary survey
before purchasing the plot.

Soil
Reference
relative
soils.
has
already
been
made
of
to
the
heat-absorbing
qualities
various
In forming a judgment on the
suitability of a particular site for gardening
purposes
it is
essential to ascertain the nature,
not only of the surface

the subsoil.
or
top
soil,
but of
If
This can only be done by having

of considerable extent, a series of
a trench dug, say, at least four feet deep.
the plot
trenches
is
should
be
points, because soils,
opened out at various and subsoils particularly,

the
may
The
vary
even
within
comparatively
restricted limits of a
garden
site.
surface soil
is
not always very closely
related to the subsoil, so that even those accus-
tomed to forming may be misled by
judgment on the subject
a superficial examination.
l6
GARDEN PLANNING
good criterion of the relative warmth of
is
A
soils
fallen.
available in winter when snow has That ground from which the snow
is
soonest disappears
obviously the warmest.
Information on this particular point generally
may
be obtained from local people well acsite.

is
quainted with the
stiff
clay subsoil to
to be avoided, as
it is
not amenable
gravel,
soils,
effective
drainage.
Sand,
and
light
loams are preferable to clay
but where clay and sand are found in
admixture, as in some of the clay loam types

the condition would not preclude good gardening; indeed, the rose grower
would
find a soil
of this
description
one of
the best for his
particular purpose.
The
dryness of a
site
depends mainly upon
the facility with
which the rain-water can
soil, and the distance from the surface of the subsoil Water. Clay
percolate through the
is
relatively impervious to water; consequently,
when
a layer of this material
is
found near
be either
the surface,
the
surface
soil
will
water-logged or baked to dryness, according

to weather and rainfall.
gravelly soil of considerable depth on a
THE FACTORS
gentle slope,
as such a soil
all
Is
IN DETAIL
Is
things considered,
the best,
If
drained naturally.
topped
with good loam, with not too liberal an ad-
mixture of stones,
gardener.
it is
an ideal one for the

is
coarse gravel subsoil

soil
not objectionable, not unusual,
provided the surface

however, to
find
has sufficient depth

It
Is
to admit of proper tillage.
gravel overlaid
with
the
merest film of loam, in which case the land
would be unsuitable
to spend
for
general
gardening
purposes, unless the purchaser were prepared
money
in
importing material for his
flower beds and borders.

Soils
overlying rocky formations must be
judged by their quality and depth.

the surface
soil Is
When
and the rock impervious to water, they suffer from the same disshallow,
abilities as stiff clay land.
The
presence of stones in the surface
soil,
generally associated with a gravelly subsoil,
but not uncommonly with stony clays,

great detriment; but
if
is
no
they are in sufficient
quantity to hamper the gardener he would
have to resort to picking or screening to reduce

their
number.
On
sloping ground the stones
iS
will
GARDEN PLANNING
be found In greater quantity at the lower
if
levels, particularly"
the land
has
been
in
cultivation.
Light, sandy soils suffer from drought, and
involve labour and expense in heavy manuring.
Much may
be
soils
be done by the gardener to improve

soil.
a naturally undesirable
treated
Light
soils
may
with
clay
or
muck, and clay

light,
with sand, ashes, and other
porous
nature
materials.
By
these
additions
the
of the surface layer
may
be
modified and
treatment of the surface
tillage; but no meet the case if the subsoil is unsuitable. These operations necessarily imply outlay, which in a large garden may be a heavy one. It is therefore
rendered more amenable to

will
advisable,
when
the purchaser has a choice
of sites, to select one
on which the
soil is
neither
too heavy nor too
light.
Another point in the selection of a site is to made ground the composition of which may be anything from gas lime to meat tins. A site of this kind would afford many unavoid
pleasant surprises to the gardener, and might
be perfectly hopeless for horticulture.
Made
ground which has long remained undisturbed
THE FACTORS
and
it is
IN DETAIL
IQ
made
not often offered for sale

is
when newly
is
generally so thickly covered with

its
surface growth that

ficially
character
not supertrench
apparent.
itself as
Here again the
trial
suggests
a wise precaution.
site,
Peat land does not constitute a good

logging.
in
because the existence of peat implies waterDrainage, however,

it
may
be effectual
converting
into a
good garden, always pro-
vided that the nature of the subsoil permits

of draining
it
thoroughly.
recently been in cultivation,
is
Land which has
either as arable or garden ground,
in
it
most
has a
cases preferable to pasture; because
greater depth of surface
soil,
and constant
it
working and manuring have brought
to the
best consistency for the gardener's purpose.
On
the other hand, pasture has certain ad-
vantages.
There
may
be
some
soil
it
additional
labour needed to bring the

condition, but against that
into working
may
be possible
to preserve part of the pasture as grass,
and
thus avoid the necessity for turfing or sowing.
Aspect
In gardens of small
is
size
the ques-
tion of aspect
perhaps the most important
factor for the gardener to consider, because
20
GARDEN PLANNING
the size of his garden will be measured, not so
much by
of space
also
is
length and breadth as by the
amount
Aspect
which receives
full sunlight.
the key to the successful planning of

I shall
the small garden, as
show when
come
to treat the garden design in detail.
/ shall have
to
refer repeatedly to the aspect
of a site by the points of the compass^
and
to
prevent possible confusion I had better here state

that
I shall
in every case, employ the term

to
to is
express that point

directed.
zvhich the
^^
house fronf^
The sun
to west
in
our latitude passes
from east
sweep to the south. Thus the north side of houses, trees, and other fixed
by
objects receive absolutely no sunshine, whilst
the east
and west
sides receive
sun only
in
the morning and evening respectively.
These are cardinal facts to be borne in mind by all who undertake to plan a garden of restricted size.
I
can best
illustrate the relative values of
aspect by a series of diagrams, the study of
which should serve to make the matter clear. In these three figures I have shown the
shadow
traces of the house
and garden
walls,
THE FACTORS
distinguishing
full
IN DETAIL
partial
21
shadow from
shadow
by the depth
of shading.
southern aspect implies that flower culture
Fig.
I.
Diagrams
illustrating aspect
will
be discounted
a fancy for
in the space
immediately
the gardener
in
to the rear of the house.
But
if
has
good flower
effects
the
fore-court, or front lawn, he should
select
southern aspect.
An
eastern or western aspect
22
will give a
GARDEN PLANNING
shady
strip
on the north
best that
side of the
house, which
may
be good or bad according to

is
circumstances.
side should
It
the shady
be that
on which the
kitchen
and
its offices
are situated, thus admitting of
flower growing at the side of the house
upon
which the living rooms look out. These shadow diagrams represent a mean of
what would actually be found.

as
The
altitude
of the sun varies according to season, as well
time of day, and thus the shadow of a wall running east and west will be narrowest at noon in midsummer and widest in the morning
and afternoon
the
in
midwinter.
in like
house
will
vary
The shadow of manner for the
same reason. In open country sites, where considerations of privacy do not carry so much weight, walls and fences need not be so high, and their shadows, therefore, would be practically negligible. At the same time, the shadow question must not be overlooked, as trees and other fixed objects may exist on the site or in its
immediate vicinity. The House in Relation
to
the Site
When
the purchaser of a building plot decides upon
THE FACTORS
the position for his
IN DETAIL
23
house,
he rarely gives
will
thought to the question of how the garden

be affected.
elled to
fit
He assumes
in
that
it
may
is
be modbetter to
with the house.

into
It
take
both
factors
consideration
when
placing the house
upon
little
its site,
because they are
closely correlated.
In these days of
narrow
if
frontages there
is
latitude in a direction
transverse to the length of the plot, and,
economy
of garden space
is
to be considered,
the purchaser
must give
careful thought to
the placing of his house, so that he
may
not
be hampered when he comes to make his

garden.
This question
will
be governed largely
tastes of
by
aspect, but to
some extent by the

always desirable,
if
the gardener.
fore-court
is
only to
ensure that the road dust does not find access

to the house.
In a thoroughfare used by autoa necessity.

It
is
mobiles
it
is
also useful for
securing a measure of privacy.
With
a north-
ern aspect the house shadow will preclude
any ambitious gardening display in the forecourt, and there is no need to allot more space to it than may be required to secure the two
objects just mentioned.
24
GARDEN PLANNING
On
for
it
the other hand, with a southern aspect
the fore-court should not be stinted in space,
cannot be questioned that flowers about
the house front not only enhance the good
appearance of the house, but constitute a valuable
charm
in
the
outlook from the front
porch and windows, A detached house should not be set centrally

in the
width of the
portions
plot,
because that would
divide the garden space on either side into two
equal
not
equally well conditioned

It
is is
for flower culture.
better to place
it
so
that the widest space
When
way
on the sunny side. the ground falls toward the road-
it may be desirable to place the house on the higher ground at the back of the plot, thus bringing the principal garden space to
the front.
All these points call for careful consideration
is made, as upon that decidepend the subsequent success or
before a decision
sion
will
non-success of the garden.
Houses
garden
set
askew
boundaries
on
i.
e.,
obliquely to the
plots
small
rarely
little
look well, and the arrangement creates no

difficulty
when
the task of designing the garden
ERTY
USURY
ColUnt C. StaU
THE FACTORS
has to be undertaken.
IN DETAIL
25
I am strongly opposed any conditions which necessitate the use of triangular areas as elements in the garden
to
Fig. 2.
Houses
on plots of irregular shape
design, because such shapes invariably suggest
formality,
When
its
the plot
and have other disadvantages. is bounded by converging

house with
that boundary which
lines it is usually best to set the
sides
parallel with
line;
most nearly makes a right angle with the road but in some cases it may be best to set the house front parallel with the roadway,
ignoring the side boundaries.
26
GARDEN PLANNING
In plots of more Irregular shape the question
must be
settled according to circumstances.
It will be seen how intimately the position of the house in relation to the shape and size of the plot is bound up with the garden plan.
From
the foregoing
It
is
not unusual for house builders to defer

their work.
In,
consideration of the garden until the architect
and builder have completed

garden designer
to him.
is
The
and has to make the best of those spaces which are left
then called
wiser course
is
to bring architect
in the first In-
and garden designer together

stance, so that they
may
exchange notes, and
each work out his plan in accordance with such decisions as they upon.
may
mutually agree
Such a course Is eminently to the advantage of the owner of the site, who thereby
design for house and thorough understanding between the two craftsmen lightens the task of both,
secures
consistent
garden.
and precludes an Incongruous
result.
further point
Is
the question of outlay to
be made on the garden.
This
is
usually as-
sumed
outlay
to be so small an item in the total
that
it
is
left
out of consideration
THE FACTORS IN DETAIL

altogether.
27
the
The
result
is
that
house
builder discovers that the expense of building,
with the inevitable "extras," has mounted up

to such a
sum
that he must perforce economize
on the garden.
he
calls
Then
help
It Is
that, with mistaken
views as to the economy of the transaction,

In the
of
to "lay out" his
garden,
bill
run pays a larger

incurred had
local nurseryman and in the long than he would have
he
secured
the
services
of
competent designer, at the same time securing

an indifferent result. The nurseryman who works out his own plan, charges what he
likes,
whereas.
If
a properly prepared plan
Is
owner may obtain competitive prices from two or more nurserymen, and make a contract for the work on the best
available, the house
terms.
The cost sum on the
of
good design
outlay,
fair
Is
trifling
total
and
is
it
invariably
justifies itself.
allotment of
money
to
the garden at the beginning the total.
ten per cent of
CHAPTER
III
The Garden Picture The

design of a
garden should take

instance,
its
general character from the local conditions and
environment. In the
gardener.
of
in
first
it
must be
adapted to the special requirements of the

If
he
is
his
own
designer, he will,
course,
always
if
mind;
have these requirements another makes the design, the
gardener cannot be too clear in specifying his

exact requirements.
The
natural conditions of the ground must

studied.
be well
The
contours,
slope,
and
sugits
aspect of the plot are the
first factors
to be
considered, and these will offer the

gestions for
its
first
treatment.
The shape
and
of
boundaries
will
be
important,
equally
so the position and shape of the house.
The aim
all
of the designer should be to bring
these factors into a consistent and pleasing
combination, in which the garden and house

28
THE GARDEN PICTURE

are in entire
it
29
harmony with each
other.
Here
will
be well to warn the designer new to
the work against planning for mere effect on

paper.
The
lines of the plan, representing as
they do the projection of the design on the

horizontal plane only, have
little
meaning
if
they are not intimately correlated with some

effect in the
all
third dimension.
its
garden at
development should be a thing of height as well as of length and

stages
of
breadth.
It
is
only by studying the effect

plane that a successful
is
in the vertical
artistic
and
is
result
realizable.
The
plan
skeleton
to
affair,
merely defining the spaces

beds, grass, and
be devoted to borders,
gravel.
The
designing of a garden
is
a process akin
to the artist's conception and execution of a

picture.
It
is
governed by principles identical
with those understood by the painter as "composition," which
may
be defined as a general
the
principal
balance of effect obtained without the use of
too
marked
symmetry
in
features of the design.
To ensure
practical realization of this effect,
therefore, the designer
must ever bear
in
mind
30
the
plants
GARDEN PLANNING
flowers,
trees,
and
shrubs
with which
It
his
his outlines will
be
filled in.
it
may
be noted also that he has
within
option to supplement these natural factors

others of an artificial kind, such as
arches,
by
summer
minor
houses,
pergolas,
and
other
structures which have a well-recognized place

in the garden.
I
cannot too strongly urge the importance

eliminating
of
symmetry from the general

it
garden picture; not only because

a
precludes
practical
picturesque
it is
efi"ect,
but for the
reason that
rarely consistent with a design
which gives due weight to the all-important

factor, aspect.
Many
complaints of undue formality have

In
their basis in the existence of a meaningless
symmetry.
against
observing
it
these
injunctions
must not be understood that they apply with the same force to details.
the
contrary,
symmetry
On
the
treatment of certain
be governed with
parts of the garden
may
advantage
of symmetry. For instance, in introducing a group of beds for effect on the lawn, a one-sided arrange-
by
considerations
ment would be opposed
to
good practice,
THE GARDEN PICTURE

particularly
if
associated with a grass plot of
regular shape.
Just what constitutes formality, as usually
understood,
it
may
be well here to discuss.
It
may
ably
in
arise
from
several causes.
Unquestionis
the
most common one
symmetry
Another
the general lines of the design.
cause
may
be injudicious planting, particularly
when
the gardener has not adopted means of
building
vertical plane.
up a well-considered picture in the Such mistakes only need to

Trees planted
be recognized to be corrected.
sentinel-wise, at equal distances
feature,
from a central
They will produce a formal effect. would be better arranged so that no two subtend the same angle in the line of sight (see Fig. 31). The repetition of some conspicuous feature at regular intervals also makes for
formality, an error not infrequently
made
in
planting with conifers and other evergreens.
Complexity
in detail
may
suggest formality,
by proclaiming too
is
insistently
Still
the
artificial
character of the garden.
another cause
neglect to preserve a proper scale in the

It
various details.
might be concluded that
the use of straight lines and right angles would
32
lead
GARDEN PLANNING
inevitably to a formal result.
Such
is
not the case.
On
the contrary, in small garlines, in
dens the use of straight
combination
is
with a studied simplicity of treatment,
the
most
efficient
means
it
of securing
an informal
result,
because
his
enables the designer to har-
monize
plan with the shape of the garden
boundaries.
On may
the other hand, the use of curved lines
only
serve
to
render
too
conspicuous
I shall
the rigid outlines of these boundaries.

deal with this part of the subject in
in the next chapter.
more
detail
variety
opposed
must here emphasize the value of variety in outline and variety in shape as
to too frequent repetition of similar
shapes, and variety in planting so as to secure

a good effect in the vertical plane.
Such variety must be carefully thought out, and made to give character to the garden as a whole. This does not imply over-elaboration, about which I have already warned the reader, nor is it opposed to simplicity of treatment. It is just the avoidance of undue repetition of lines and shapes. Another factor in the attainment of the
THE GARDEN PICTURE

picturesque
It
is
is
33
what
may term
"reticence."
not well to aim at giving too comprehen-
sive a
view of the garden from any one point.

so contrived that the
The planning should be

as
it is
various garden features are seen one at a time
traversed from end to end.
This
may
be arranged by judicious screening, for which

trees, shrubs, arches, trellises,
may
be employed.
Much may
and other objects be done in the

with flowers
tall
planting to attain this very desirable quality.
long herbaceous border,
filled
carefully graded in height,
the
ones
all
standing at the back and the short ones in

front,
Its
is
presents
is
rather
monotonous
if
vista.
charm
greatly enhanced
the process
partly reversed, so that here and there a

is
bold clump of flower or foliage
allowed to
push forward, thereby screening what lies beyond; and incidentally this arrangement
has value in affording shelter to the smaller
and more tender plants lying between

robuster companions.
their
Nothing
is
more
delightful
than to pass
along such a border, finding something
new and
unexpected every few yards.

Again, the garden
may
be divided up into
34
GARDEN PLANNING
come
into full
separate compartments, each to
view only when
It
is
entered.
between
well-filled
borders,
down we may thread a

Passing
pergola clustered with flowering climbers, to
reach an old-fashioned garden which, in turn,

leads
to
a shady grass plot,
or,
by another
in
flower-flanked path, to the vegetable garden.
Each
itself
section
of the
garden
its
is
complete
yet wedded
to
neighbour, each
separate factor in the complete picture, and

all
united
in
consistent
and harmonious
whole.
The
It
is
task of the designer does not stop at
this point.
He
has other factors to consider.
essential that the picture should not be
merely a group of closed-in compartments.
He must
whilst
points,
contrive a series of vistas, which,
pleasant peeps from certain convey a sense of space. In other words, the treatment must include that artistic quality known as "breadth." This is to be
giving
attained in part by the opening up of vistas,
and
in part
by
simplicity of character in the

/
principal details of the design.
One
frequently hears the term

I
"a natural
a natural
garden."
may
here
state
that
THE GARDEN PICTURE
35
garden within the limits of four square boundarywalls,

in
the sense of a garden which shall

spectator into
believing that he
is
deceive the
is
looking at a piece of pure nature,
unattain-
Nor is it desirable that we should strive to make such a garden. Yet Nature cannot be left out of the question. The gardener provides the home and the occupant and there his work ends. He must rely upon
able.
the hand of Nature to
fill
in the outlines,
tell her.
which
she can do far better than he can

It
should
is
ever
be
remembered that the
highest art
effects
fore,
that which conceals art.

in
The
which we create
our gardens, there-
must be
so contrived as not to reveal
too patently the means
by which they
are
produced.
By
as
the observance of this principle
we
get the nearest approach to a natural garden,
inasmuch
of
the examples of nature's
work
as
it
then impress us more strikingly than the work

the
garden designer
and
this
is
should be.
I
it
is
must now
repose.
refer to a further quality
which
important to introduce into the garden,
viz.,
Repose
is
closely correlated with

it
breadth of treatment, but
also
involves a
36
GARDEN PLANNING
proper proportioning of the main elements of

the design, the borders, grass, and walks.
As regards the walks,
it
is
only necessary
to see that they exist for a definite purpose
(not merely because the designer thinks they
help the outlines on his paper plan) and that
they do not sprawl aimlessly about the plot,

cutting
it
up
into
awkward
shapes.
Grass, more than any other feature, helps

to secure a feeling of repose.
it it
As
far as possible
should exist in a single stretch, or at least should not consist of a number of scattered
pieces.
the
Apart from questions of tennis and croquet, grass is a valuable background to the
flowers; a place
where the feet may escape the "crunch " of gravel, and one may find perhaps a corner bathed in shadow, from which to look out upon one aspect of the garden picture,
or to
enjoy one's thoughts or thoughts of

take
another between the covers of a book.
Let the grass, therefore,

place,
its
proper
and be duly proportioned to the rest. And so with the beds and borders. It is little short of vandalism to fret the lawn into a
lace-work of fantastically fashioned beds, in
THE GARDEN PICTURE

which geometry
is
37
invoked to provide the
gardener with inspiration. Nature does not grow her flower groups within the rigid limits of five-pointed stars, crescents, and crosses. Beds in grass are sometimes admirable features in the general scheme, if modelled on simple shapes. The more elaborate the form of the bed the more time and labour will be expended in preserving its geometry, and the less enjoyment will be derived from the flowers. The maker of stars and crescents, moreover, should realize that an acute angle is an awkward one to which to adapt his flowers, and
that to preserve the outlines of such beds
is
it
necessary to
fill
them with puny

pinching, are
plants,
which, by
constant
prevented
from developing their natural charm of form and character. The result is that the bed is
exalted above the flower, and the whole device
becomes a mere formal patch of colour, exciting no more worthy emotion than an admiration for the gardener's patience and skill with
the turf trimmer.
circle,
Better to adopt a simple

rectangle
square,
if
or
and
to be not
too particular
grass,
the flowers spread on to the

as
so
long
they grow under natural
38
GARDEN PLANNING
conditions and yield their harvest of blossom.
The
outlines they create under such treatment
blend softly with the turf, and are far more

sightly than the
hard edges fresh from the

clear that the garden
itself,
trimming
I
tool.
it
have already made

this
is
design must grow out of the garden
and
only another
way
of saying that
its
the garden must harmonize with

surroundings.
site
and
There may be some conspicuous natural feature on the site which would furnish a knoll, a drop in a theme for the designer level, or the presence of a natural pond or
Whatever it be, it may be utilized on which to build up the other details. The house also may provide the theme, and then the garden must be designed to harmonize with its outlines and character. A house permitted to stand up bleak and naked from an expanse of gravel or turf will always wear an aspect of aloofness from the
stream.
as a basis
garden.
fore,
The
first
care of the designer, therefill
should be to
rises
in the angles
where the
house
above the ground, either by the
use of shrubs, or
by placing borders against
the house wall, as circumstances
may
dictate.
THE GARDEN PICTURE

Preconceived ideas, acquired before the
has
39
site
been thoroughly
surveyed,
should
not
be
allowed to influence
the designer.
Your
neighbour's
taste
garden may be a model of good and successful horticulture, but, slavishly

site,
copied on another
may be
a dismal failure.
The
by
picturesque character of a garden
may
in
be marred as
sins
much by
sins of
commission as
of omission.
There are gardens
which no expense has been spared to ensure

a splendid succession of bloom, utterly ruined
by the introduction of garish and incongruous accessories. The smaller the plot, the stronger
apparently the temptation
eyesores.
to
import these
too
The garden maker cannot be

against
watchful
features.
the
use
of
inharmonious
arches, pergolas, dials,
Such accessories as summer houses, and garden seats should
to suit the garden, and their and mode of construction should be simple and unostentatious. Paint should be sparingly used, if at all, and its colour should be chosen so as not to compete with the flowers. I have seen a wide expanse of trellis painted canary yellow, which for crudity and ill-taste would be hard to match, yet the perpetrator
be designed
details
40
GARDEN PLANNING
it,
was content to grow nasturtiums upon

quite
unconscious
art.
of
having
outraged
the
canons of
The
good
so-called
taste.
If
"rustic"
the
work
is
rarely
is
in
summer house
to be
decorated,
what better means can be found

its
than allowing some pretty creeper to scramble

over
it,
softening
.^
outline
and loading
it
with bloom
Terra-cotta, china, and cast-iron vases should
be used with caution.

of scale
in a
They
are generally out
small garden, and
never quite
a terrace
satisfactory unless
wall,
associated with
structure.
or
some
place
similar
In most
stout
cases their
could
be
taken by
oaken tubs, with advantages on the score of

appearance.
The gardener must* be

if
hoplessly depraved
he admit such objects as minerals, mechanical

If
models, and sea-shells into his garden.

possesses
he
any
of these curiosities let

in a special
a place for
them apart
him find museum.
Given discretion in excluding the inartistic and incongruous, there may be still room for
mistakes
in
the
use
of
garden
accessories.
They may be
selected so as not to be in proper
THE GARDEN PICTURE
4I
scale with the garden, or with that part of
the garden in which they are to be installed.
In these matters the designer's instincts must

guide him to the attainment of what
is
correct.
Good
proportion
is
largely a matter of intuition,

fitness
though a sense of
knowledge and good
may come from

Let the garden
sense.
maker decide
of both.
as far as possible
rules
by the help
The golden
Simplicity.
are:
Use before ornament.

Appropriateness.
Sound construction.
Scale.
.
As every garden picture must have

or, in
a focus,
other words, a point of interest to which

itself
the eye will naturally direct
before
it
can
I
properly
appreciate
the
general
effect,
attach
much value
to the
summer house
It
as
a suitable device for the purpose.
makes
a very natural terminal to the principal path,
and
to
is
therefore "led
its
up
to^' in
such a
this
way
as
enhance
usefulness
is
for
purpose.
Again, the pointed roof

for constituting the
admirably adapted
apex or summit of the
garden picture.
This particularly applies to
42
GARDEN PLANNING
gardens, before
it
Is
new
possible to utilize
the trees as conspicuous elements in the picture.
well-constructed
summer
house,
weather-
proof,
and placed so that its open side is in shade, is a most desirable addition to anygarden, however small, both as a picturesque feature in the design and as a useful retreat
in
hot or rainy weather.
Of other garden
accessories
shall
have
occasion to treat in their proper place.
Though
am
writing in the main in the in-
terest of flower lovers, I shall
make
I
reference
to the kitchen garden,
and here
may
it
point
to the
out that
flower
it is
often feasible to so
it
wed
ground that
materially
helps
the
garden picture.
In small gardens, where the

reduced
owner
desires to reserve a plot for vegetables,

is
the apparent size of the garden
if
the vegetable ground other hand,

if
is
screened
off. it
On
the
left
in full view,
contrasts
too conspicuously with the flower ground.

It
is
best to take both factors into considera-
tion
when making
I
the garden design, and, by

detail
later
means which
harmony.
shall describe in
on, to blend flower
and kitchen garden into

the garden vistas
In this
way
may
THE GARDEN PICTURE
43
be lengthened without curtailing the vegetable

space,
be
made
and even the tenants of the latter may in some measure to contribute to the
if
garden picture, particularly
fruit
is
grown.
There are certain practical considerations in town and suburban gardens which demand that the vegetables should be grown in that
part of the plot most remote from the house.
If fruit trees
be planted in the kitchen plot,

its
the blossom in
season
is is
valuable at a time
when
the flower garden

its
but
little
advanced
toward
summer
display.
There is only one other point to emphasize, and that has reference to garden management rather than to garden making. Yet it is worth noting. I refer to what some gardeners
call
"tidiness."
The
striving
after
neat,
and well-kept garden is apt to lead the gardener into a ruthless trimming and pinching of plants. It is one of the things which can
trim,
be too well done.

is
The
It
truly artistic garden

full
one
in
its
which the plant has

character.
scope to de-
velop
wants
elbow-room,
and has no respect for artificial boundaries. It Is a sin to curb and mutilate the plant because,
forsooth,
it
pushes out
its
foliage across the
44
path.
GARDEN PLANNING
Rather
let
it
enjoy
its
liberty.
The
occasional plant which has
more than repaid
of
your care by exceeding its neighbour in vigour growth deserves encouragement. Let it
sprawl
in
reason.
It
will
soften
the
edge
of your border and redeem the straightness

of
its
line.
certain
this
plants
so that they
would even designedly place may behave in
manner. And, lastly, beware of the too liberal pruning of trees and shrubs. Nature is always right.
She gives a character to each one of her creations,
which
is its
birthright.
To
trim
all
trees
to a uniform shape, like the
wooden models
in
a child's Noah's Ark,

viduality
is
to destroy their indi-
and
charm, and to introduce the
very essence of formality into the garden.
CHAPTER
IV
The Rectilinear Principle

I
NOW
the
propose to enter more intimately

practical
details
Into
ing.
of
garden design-
The suburban garden is

is
usually a rectangle.
lines,
Its four
boundaries are straight

so
restricted
and
its
area
that
these
boundaries
are only too obvious to the person standing
within them.
The house
placed
rightly
so.
is
square at
the
its
angles, squarely
within
garden
boundaries,
of
and
Thus the problem

Is
designing
the details of the garden

conditions which
encompassed by
demand
special consideration.
We
cannot Ignore the fact that the skeleton on which we have to build our garden plan is a thing of straight lines and right angles.
The problem,
is
therefore, for the garden designer
to evolve a style of planning that will best
harmonize with these elements, which by no ingenuity of contrivance can be suppressed.

45
46
GARDEN PLANNING
The treatment
that
it is
advocate
is
based upon the
use of straight lines, and experience has shown the only successful method of solving
I
the problem.
principle."
have termed
it
the "rectilinear
appear to imply the very essence of formality, but, under

careful
scrutiny,
this
It might, at first sight,
objection
disappears.
this
Let us consider the alternative:
would
involve the use of curves or irregular lines,
which would at once establish a new factor in the problem. The curves might be laid down with the utmost skill with a view to
obtaining a unity inter
se,
but they would
individually and collectively remain in perma-
nent discord with the rectilinear boundaries,
emphasizing their squareness.

It should be understood that the problem under consideration is the planning of a garden
of moderate size, to which type of garden alone

I
should apply the rectilinear treatment.
On
garden
plots
of
larger
size,
even
if
bounded by straight lines, the case is different. Usually means may be adopted in such cases
to sufficiently
mask
the fences or walls, which,

plot,
owing to the
larger area of the
would
never be obtrusive.
THE RECTILINEAR PRINCIPLE

I claim
47
no novelty for the rectilinear system. In some form or other it has been in use by garden planners since the days of the ancient
Egyptians, but not always applied in a
to secure the best possible results.
way Modern
gardeners, having acquired a horror of formal

effect,
have sought to avoid

borders.
tion of winding paths

their
My
it.
it by the introducand sinuous edges to object is to show that
these devices do not achieve their purpose,
but rather defeat
The question
must be tackled
of formality in a small garden

in
another way.
The
use of straight lines does not preclude
variety and the other factors which
make
to
for
picturesque
effect.
it
But when
allied
an
obvious symmetry
does engender formality.
Therefore
I exclude from the rectilinear system any arrangement which gives equal-sidedness
to the garden.
These
points
will
be
better
appreciated
by reference to Fig. 3. At A is shown the type of garden only too common. I may call it the rectangular symmetrical
style.
It
in
has
crystallized
into
permanent feature
many city lots.
Its faults
48
are
GARDEN PLANNING
many and
obvious.
It
is
not correlated
with aspect, and therefore does not make the
most of the space.

is
Such a
garden would
Its
handicap the flower grower.

too
symmetry
of
pronounced to be capable
in the planting.
Its
being
is
masked
circuit
path
ABC
Fig. 3.
Garden
it
styles
compared
a waste of gravel and a waste of space.
It has
no
distinction,
and
would elude the gardener
THE RECTILINEAR PRINCIPLE
49
in
who sought
fullest sense.
to
make
it
picturesque
the
is
the garden which hopes to avoid forfails
mality by the use of curves, but

mission
in
its
because
its
lines are
out of harmony
with
its
is
boundaries.
a simple application of the rectilinear
C
of
principle, based
upon
the
a careful consideration
aspect.
In
last
example
parallel
it
will
full
be
the
seen that the principal borders enjoy
sun,
that
the
main
fences,
lines
are
with
boundary
natural
and therefore appear as a suggestion from those boundaries;
that the path has a definite purpose

the
traffic
it
to take
leads
where the attraction of the flowers and that it begins and ends somegrass
is
where.
The
confined to a single area,
and includes no shapes which would be difficult to attack with a mower. The keynote is simplicity, which implies dignity and harmony. Such a garden could be planted with the best
results
effect.
in
securing
really
artistic
general
It
may
be remarked, to prevent misappreis
hension, that this design

siderable
capable of con-
modification to
suit circumstances.
50
It
is
GARDEN PLANNING
adapted
in this case to a north-east aspect.
For other aspects the positions of the borders would be altered, and other details would need
modification.
already
Apart from the more important advantages mentioned it is clear that it has
others of minor
moment, yet
view.
desirable from
the gardener's point of

straight borders
is
The edging
of
always more easily managed

Stone or concrete
than that of curved ones.

edges take truer
in
lines,
place.
and are more easily kept The trimming of grass edges can
a
always be controlled by
stretched
cord.
straight path
points.
is
the shortest route between
any two
in
In the next following chapters
I shall
show
really
more
be
detail
how
the
rectilinear
system
may
applied to the making
of a
picturesque garden.
CHAPTER V
The Elements
There
plan
of the
Garden Plan
the
(in
are three
main
factors In the garden
beds, the walks, and the grass.
In the evolution of the garden design the
beds
which term
first
include borders) should
receive
consideration.
They may
well
occupy more space than is usually allowed them. The narrow strips of border so often seen skirting the fences of suburban gardens
are practically useless for flower culture.
A
the
width of
be in
six
feet
is
not too
it
much
if
for
principal border,
full
and
should,
possible,
sun.
If the
main path
defines its
it
near boundary, another border parallel to
may
be made on the other side of the path

feet
but narrower, say four

parity in width
is
wide.
This
dis-
designed to secure variety

-
and to eliminate one
sidedness.
Two
such
borders, the wide one planted with shrubs
and
herbaceous plants, the narrow one with surface51
52
GARDEN PLANNING
growing flowers, become complementary, and

ofl'er
opportunity for
and
for the creation of a fine vista.
many charming effects, The narrow
border would on one side abut on the grass
and short transverse extensions of it might be carried into the grass area to break its inner line and to extend the flower space laterally. Such offshoots from a long border
plot,
become
partial
screens,
I
helping
to
secure
that quality which

to as "reticence."
It
is
have already referred
by no means necessary that every border
should be served by a path.

trary, variety of effect
is
On
the con-
ducing a
by introborder between the grass and the

assisted
fence, say
boundary
on the side of the garden
opposite to the main walk.

shall further elucidate
These points
special examples.
when I come to consider The main point I wish to

stage
is
emphasize at
in
this
that the borders,

his
which the gardener aims at securing

I
principal flower display, should be in full sun,
and served by the principal path.

desire to
also
make
it
clear that these borders
must
be the dominating factor in the design, for

it is
not too
much
to say that they constitute
ELEMENTS OF THE GARDEN PLAN
53
the garden in the truest sense of the word.
The path
is
for utility, the grass for repose,
and
both must ever be subordinate to the beds
and borders.
Just
Hence we cannot give too

latter.
careful
thought to the
how
is
the
further
elaboration
of
the
scheme
contrived after the positions of the
have been determined will depend upon circumstances and the fancy of
principal borders
the garden maker.

siderable length
it
If
the garden
is
of con-
may
this
be advisable to divert
full
the path before

of the plot.
it
has traversed the
extent
How
may
be done without
sacrificing the welfare of the flowers,
and with
best results to the garden picture, will appear

hereafter.
I
mention
for
it
here as one of the

securing
a
desirable
of
legitimate
devices the
quality
in
plan.
Is
The
introduction
detached beds also
a matter In which the
taste of the designer
must be
his
most
trust-
worthy guide.
An
expedient
have often employed
is
to
allow the path to expand into a square at
some
point of
in
its
its
length,
and to
is
install a
square bed
centre.
This
is
very convenient
device
when
it
required to effect a slight
54
deviation
in
GARDEN PLANNING
the
path without altering
its
direction, as
the path
may
it
enter the square
at one corner,
and leave
in
by the diagonally
4.)
opposite corner. (Fig.

grass,
Beds
its
when
of
set
near
boundary, should
a
be
allowed
eighteen
verge
at least
inches, to prevent
in
difficulties
mowing. The use of circles and parts of circles, as well as of figures in which the angles are equal and not less than
a right
for
Fig. 4.
angle
example
the
the hexagon, not opposed

is
Expansion
to
rectilinear
system of
of path
treatment.
They become mere
details, in
no special way related to the leadthe principal borders should usurp

is
ing lines of the garden plan.
Though
reason
the best position in the garden, there
no
a
why
as
the gardener should not
make
border in the shade, where he

plants
thrive
may grow
is
such
well
best under that condition.
The
as
foot of a southern
boundary fence
it is
suited for a shady border, because

well
as
warm
shady.
Ferns,
lily-of-the-valley,

and Solomon's Seal would
55
thrive In such a
border, as well as a multitude of other plants.
When
within
the house does not stand squarely

its
boundaries,
or
when
the
garden
boundaries are straight but not rectangular, as

in a plot
which tapers
in
the direction of
its
length, the problem requires

eration; but usually
some special consid-
bring the garden details into

these disconcerting factors,
means may be devised to harmony with

as
perusal of
some of the plans in Chapter XVIII will show. I have said that the paths exist for utility. That is so in a large measure, but they have a
further value,
in
linking together the
other
is
elements of the garden.
Moreover, a path
an objective invitation to walk through the garden and enjoy its beauties. A garden
without a path would hardly satisfy the eye.
On
the other hand, nothing

cutting up
is
so wasteful of
space, or so irritating to the eye, as a multitude
of paths
the garden into
small
compartments
of the picture.
and
destroying
the
breadth
There are two principal points

or should be
the
in every path,
beginning and the end.
Paths which start nowhere and end at a blank
56
GARDEN PLANNING
It
wall suggest purposelessness.

as
may
be taken
an axiom that the principal path should

at
commence
and preferably
some point conveniently near, facing, the door by which the

Its direction
it
house inmates enter their garden.
should be through the flowers, and
should
have a natural termination, or final destination. The best terminal to a garden path in my
opinion
feature
is
is
the
summer
house, and
non-existent, an arbour, or
when that some other

Failing
erection,
should serve the purpose.
that, the path
expansion, in
might terminate in a square which a seat, sundial, or other

It
appropriate object might be placed.
would
it
be better to end
it
at a tool house or garage,
or even at a potting-shed, than to allow

to stop suddenly nowhere.
All deviations in the direction of the path
should be
made
at
right
angles.
Diagonal
look
paths are
not permissible.
of a path
They never
in
well in a small garden.
The value
to
its
is
mainly
proportion
utility.
After rain or heavy
dew the
which
garden would be uninviting without a path.

It also preserves the turf
from
traffic,
would soon wear
it
to bareness.
This sums

Up the path's
usefulness.
57
That
it
has also a
certain value in the general picture I
have
already conceded.
in
have seen
it
laid
down
handbooks on gardening that the smaller

it
is
ihe garden the more the need for the "winding path," which,
claimed, adds to the

I
"apparent length of the garden."
cannot
conceive that any such result could follow in a
garden the boundaries of which are visible
on every
side.
The winding path

areas, the
in a small
plot serves only to cut

ularly shaped
will
up the space into
irreg-
treatment of which
tax the
skill
of the planner to deal with
successfully, whilst the additional
gravel surface
is
so
amount of much deducted from what

must bear some reIn comeconomy of space sug-
might be made productive flower ground.
The width
of the path
lation to the scale of the garden.
paratively small plots,

gests that
it
should be the
I
minimum compatible
less
with
its
purpose.
do not favour a
than three feet for a principal
path
width under
be
any circumstances.
In
larger
gardens
is
greater
width
all
may
else
is
permitted, as there
a certain distinction
and
in
dignity in a broad walk
when
58
proportion.
feet
GARDEN PLANNING
In a half-acre plot a width of five
might be desirable.
The practical details of path making will be treated in a separate chapter, but I may
here refer to the path material, more particularly as regards its
colour and texture.

bricks,
Red
are
gravel,
coarse
sand,
and
tiles
warm
foliage.
in tone, contrasting well
with the grass

their
and harmonizing with the flowers and

blue stone, and cement
viting,
Granite chips, cinders, tarred gravel,

are cold and uninand should only be used when other
materials are unobtainable.
Red
gravel (of the right kind, which binds
well), bricks, tiles, tarred gravel,
make paths with

never bind
paths
a close, hard surface.
or pebbles, stone chips, cinders,
and cement Sand and blue stone

which,
apart
thoroughly,
a
loose
and therefore make

underfoot,
will
with
the
surface,
feeling
from
plies
unpleasant
Imthe
that
much
loose
material
carried
adhere
to
to
the
boots
and
be
on
grass, with disastrous results to the knives of
the mower.
Though
equal
paths, as a rule, should be
made
of
width
throughout,
it
is
sometimes

advisable
59
when they
if
are of
any great length,

to introduce at
and particularly
straight,
Fig. s.
Expansion
of path
6o
GARDEN PLANNING
suitable point an expansion in width to
line.
some
break the
dicated
This should be done in one of the ways

in
in-
the
illustration
expansions
may
be
utilized
These to accommodate
(Fig.
5).
garden
seats,
sundials,
vases or tubs, trees
Fig. 6.
Expansion
of path
or beds, so as not to appear quite purposeless.
Expansions of the kind indicated are well

placed at points where a secondary path breaks
EtEMENTS OF THE GARDEN PLAN

off
6l
from the principal one; also at the terminal of a path, as already mentioned.
In winding paths they would take a form
more
as the
in
harmony with the
lines of the path,
examples illustrated in Fig. 6 show.

rectilinear system, as
Although the
should be
angles,
adapted
offshoots
to small gardens,
demands that path

to
made
leave the path at right
the same does not apply to curved
paths, in which all by-paths must leave the main path at a more or less acute angle, the curves of both being laid down to form a
pleasing combination of lines, thus:
Thedictumof
a distinguished
landscape gar-
dener on question
this
may
RepFig.
be taken as an
axiom.
7. Path
junction
ton, as quoted
says: "When two walks diverge from each other they should not appear as if they were intended to join again, but rather
by Mawson,
as
if
each led to points far apart."

use of curved paths, though inadmissible
The
62
in
GARDEN PLANNING
small plots,
Is
quite legitimate and even
desirable in plots of larger size,
and
for
may
therefore
offer
some
set
guidance
out
in good,
laying
them
out.
Curves should be
bold sweeps.
Grace of
is
line
is
only to be obtained by a prac-
tised eye guided
by an
intuitive sense of
what
pleasing,
so
that the
best
achievements
in this direction are usually the result of skill,
knowledge, and
artistic instinct.
hint
may
is-
be given as to what should be avoided.
Thus the curve A in the

better than B.
illustration (Fig. 8)
Mr. Mawson
inhisadmirable
book, "The Art
Fig. 8.
Curves
and Craft of Garden Makin
paths
ing,"
says
of
garden
in
walks:
"They
should
be
arranged
such a
way
that the beauties of the place
may
be exhibited, not
by
a series of wriggles,
but in a simple straightforward manner." As a rule, these curves are best not modelled
on a geometrical basis, i. e., one in which parts It is of circles do duty as their components.

better
63
that they should
have that flowing
character of which
in
we
find the counterpart
nature in the graceful lines of a bending
sedge or the curved stem of a flower spike.
Thus the planner should

than the compasses.
In laying
is
rely
on freehand rather
down
such a curved path the novice
too apt to overlook the spaces to right and
left.
He
should ever bear in mind that his
walks subdivide the garden space, and on the

course they take will depend the shape of the
areas they
bound or
enclose.
Thus
in the case
of a path skirting the garden
boundary the amount and shape of the space between it and the boundary fence must be considered. For instance, it would be bad practice to leave a strip too wide for a border but too narrow to
carry a border with grass in front of
I
it.
now
it
pass on to the third element in the
garden
going
is
plan
will
the
grass.
From
the
foreit
be seen
how
it
is
closely correlated
with the other factors.

In small gardens
best to confine the
grass to a single area, though circumstances
may
this
arise to
rule.
make
it
desirable to depart from
In such event
the second grass
64
GARDEN PLANNING
space should be subordinate to the principal

one, and
if
possible reserved for a separate

bisect the garden into
is
purpose.
To
two equal
to a good
areas of grass
at once to introduce symmetry.
The
artist well
knows how
fatal it
is
pictorial
effect
to allot equal spaces to sky
and landscape.
The two cases
are parallel.
In gardens of the size I am now considering the idea of a " lawn " for games is rarely realizable for
want
of space,
and the grass
plot,
therefore, should be treated with other pur-
more closely and general picture. It affords welcome relief to the eye, and by contrast enhances the value of the colour effect obtainable with the flowers. Moreover, its surface presents a cool, soft, and welcome tread, and a place to "laze" upon and enjoy the garden vistas. It is that part of the garden in which we may plant a few trees for shade, without fear that their shadows and hungry roots will work havoc with the flowers. The grass plot should never be isolated by surrounding it on all sides with gravel, as too often is done in
poses in view.
related
Its functions are
to
the flowers
the type of garden illustrated in Fig. 3A, the
65
garden with a circuit path so beloved by suburban dwellers. Let one or more of the
sides join a border,
where grass and flowers

juxtaposition.
would
come
into
Even
let
the border thrust out an extension into the

grass in the
manner suggested
in
the early
0^0
(^
B
(?
Fig. 9.
The
grouping of beds
part of this chapter.
But beware
of fretting
your principal grass plot into a thing of ragged

outline
by overdoing
it
this procedure,
and do
beds.
not pierce
with a multitude of
little
Remember
in
also that the simpler in
shape your
experience
grass plot, the less difficulty
you
it
will
mowing
it
and keeping
trim and neat.
66 Beds
points,
GARDEN PLANNING
in grass are best grouped at one or two and the components of the group should
effect.
be shaped so as to produce unity of
Com-
pare the two examples illustrated on page 65 (A correctly grouped, B incorrectly grouped).
It
is
generally better that the outlines of
the group should preserve a parallelism with

those of the grass plot, as this ensures a more
harmonious
effect.
I
From what
in
have written about the imit
portance of making aspect the guiding factor
garden design,
is
clear that the gardener
should contrive, as far as possible, that the

principal shadows in his garden should fall upon the grass, where they will be welcome as shade, and will not preclude the growth of good
turf.
Small detached grass spaces,
if
unavoid-
able,
may
be
made
interesting
by planting
Another
a
cen-
them with
plan
is
bulbs, thereby securing a charming
feature in spring and early summer.
to utilize the space for a sunken rock
garden, and yet

tral
another
is
to
make
in
group of beds upon

a
it,
which
an
the case
attractive
of
square
space
becomes
is
secondary focus.
An
important point
to give proper access

to
all
d']
grass
spaces.
This implies that the
borders should not bar the

to be the
grass.
way which appears

of reaching the
most natural one
Neglect of this consideration
may tempt
those
who
use the garden to skip over the
borders, with consequences to the plants which

I
need not particularize.

likely to
It
is
well to provide
all
means
which
it
of access to the grass at

it is
points from
be approached, by bringing
up to the path at those points. This is done by curtailing the border some three or four feet at its end, or by breaking through it at some point in its length. Many examples illustrating this suggestion will be found in
the plans.
^When
ground
be
left
a grass plot
is
used solely as a back-
group of beds, ample verge should at the edges, and, whatever the shape
for a
of the beds, the spaces
between bed and bed
should be of sufficient width to ensure no

difficulty in
mowing.
spaces of irregular
In dealing with grass

outline, such as
would occur where the paths
are winding, the placing of the beds should take
into account the outline of the grass space.
For instance, a square group of beds
set in a
68
GARDEN PLANNING
curved promontory would produce a discordant

note.
Better to adapt the shape of the group

it is set.
to the space in which
The two methods
are here illustrated for the
sake of comparison, and a glance at the figures
[Z7/-n\Z]
oB<'
Fig. lo.
Girrect
form for groups of beds
will sufficiently
convince the reader as to which
method is most likely to please the eye. There is no need to make the grass
the ground has a
natural slope,
level if
provided,

of course,
69
"King Tennis" does not
rule.
On
the contrary, sloping ground greatly assists

drainage, and ensures that puddles shall not
lodge on the surface, which, on heavy ground,
would Inevitably occur on a dead-level
plot.
CHAPTER
VI
Making Beds and Borders

Being Intended solely for the purpose of accommodating living plants, beds and borders
should be
made
so that they will furnish every-
thing that a plant
demands
of the
soil.
This
implies not only that the soil shall be of such
a nature as to supply abundant food for the
but that it shall be of sufficient depth and of proper consistency, and that it shall contain no undesirable constituents. Soils are as we find them, and not always as we would have them, so that the gardener who, by force of circumstances, has to till an intractable soil, must adopt artificial means
roots,
to bring
it
into a better condition.
Reference
subject
in
has
already
been
made
to
the
Chapter II. Let us assume that the gardener
is
breaking
virgin ground, say a piece of old pasture.
He
has staked out the main lines of his garden plan,

70
MAKING BEDS AND BORDERS

and
Is
Jl
about to make
his
beds and borders.
The
stiff
it,
soil consists of
a top-spit of
If
brown loam
is
overlying a clayey subsoil.

clay,
the latter
and
insufficient surface soil overlies
the gardener
may have
additional
to face the necessity
of
importing
material.
But
let
us assume that the consistency of the subsoil

is
not so hopeless as the above assumption

imply.
soil
would
is
Then
the
proper
procedure
and subsoil into intimate admixture, so that one may temper the other, and to do so to such a depth as the ordinary requirements of horticulture demand. In most
to bring
circumstances this
or
may
is
be taken as two feet

best
thereabout.
This
done
operation
explained.
It
is
known
as "trenching,"
by the now to be
may
its
be well here to state that trenching
a term applied strictly to spade
work which
has for
object deep tillage, as distinguished
from "digging," by which the surface layer

of the soil only
is
turned over.
fall
Trenching
is
best done in the late

It
is
months
when the weather is yet open. in various ways according to
conducted
the results re-
quired and to the previous condition of the
72
ground.
GARDEN PLANNING
In "full-trenching" the process has
the effect of reversing the relative positions

of the upper
and lower layers of
soil,
so that
that which was situated, say, two feet below

the surface comes to the top, and the top layer
goes to the lower level.
So complete a reversal may be admirable treatment for ground which has long been in
and therefore already broken up to it would be inadvisable in the case of new ground such as we are considering, the subsoil of which had
tillage,
the trenching depth, but
not seen the light perhaps for centuries.
On
such ground the subsoil would be compacted
and wanting entirely in the which furnish food for plants.

therefore, that
if
constituents
It
is
clear,
full-trenching were adopted
the gardener would have a very poor surface

layer in which to grow his flowers.
better plan would

in
be to " half-trench,"
soil
which consists
removing the surface
in sections, then breaking
up the
subsoil with
a fork, and subsequently replacing the surface

soil.
But
there
is
still
a better
method
for
the garden maker, designed to effect the more

or less complete mixing of the
soil
and subsoil

to the desired depth.
73
As that
is
the principal
object he should have in view, this last

is is
method
the one for
him
is
to adopt.
The
operation
conducted as follows:
The ground
by
opened up to the
full
depth
a trench cut across
the border, as
shown
Fig. II.
Trenching
the
illustration,
by the
soil
full
line
in
which
represents
the
trench in cross-section.
The
removed may at once be carried to a position near the far end of the border. The gardener then proceeds to fill up the trench at A with soil taken alternately from B and C, D and E, and so on till he reaches the end of the border, when the space left must be filled
in with the soil that has
been taken there for
the purpose.
If
the land
is
old pasture, care should be taken
to bury the turfs, so they
may
in
due time rot
74
GARDEN PLANNING
their quota to enriching
and thereby contribute

the
soil.
is
Although the primary object of trenching to produce a workable soil of sufficient

incidentally
it
depth,
assisting
effecting aeration,
aifords a
drainage and good opportunity
for enriching the soil
proportion of manure.
beds and borders in

tunity
by incorporating with it In the making of a new garden this opporneglected.
should
not be
Therefore
the gardener should have at hand a heap of
good manure, and as the work proceeds he should add it to the soil at a regular rate, until the whole contents of the border has been
treated. This must be done in a manner which ensures that the manure be well distributed in depth, not merely added to the
surface layer, so that when the plants send

their roots they will find a
down
reserve of food
awaiting them.
Once made
in this
way, the border
will
not
an-
need trenching again for some years.

in efficient condition for a period
The
nual digging and manuring will serve to keep

it
dependent
upon the demands made upon it. It should be remembered that when we have

planted,
75
and the plants have become estabit is
lished in the borders,
not possible to resort

all
to trenching again without removing
the
plants; hence the necessity for doing the
work
thoroughly
in the first instance.
With beds and groups

shape, trenching
practicable.
of beds of
compact
is
as just described
hardly
first
The
better
method
is
to
remove
the top-spit over the whole surface
it close at hand; then to do the same with the lower layer, making a separate heap of it; after which the bottom should be forked over and the soil thrown back, mixing well together that from the two separate heaps. A due proportion of manure should
of the bed, heaping
be added, as in ordinary trenching.
Thus
far these directions apply to soils
which
are naturally well fitted for the gardener.
too light or too heavy
soils
With some tempering
material must be added, and this is best done when the beds and borders are being formed. On heavy clay soils we may use sand, fine
gravel,
ashes, and vegetable matter. an excellent plan, not often adopted,
It
I
is
fear,
to
make
the lowest layer of brick rubbish, with
cinders overlying.
76
GARDEN PLANNING
This ensures good drainage.

feet of soil should be
layer.
At
least
two
put above the drainage
The
cost
and trouble may be more^

repay the gardener.
but the results
will
Fig.
12.
Drainage
for beds
and borders
Borders prepared in this way do not suffer from water-logging even during wet winters. In hot summer weather they neither bake nor become dry for any great distance down. If the trenching is done in the autumn, the winter frosts will help to break up the clay lumps, reducing them to a consistency more nearly approaching loam. The important point in the treatment of clay land is to secure a sufficient admixture of loose porous material to destroy the tenacity of the clay and to permit of moisture freely finding its way down through the mass of soil. A certain proportion of vegetable matter is a gain, as it has manurial
value.
Hence the gardener may
cast into his

trench
refuse,
turfs,
77
weeds, and
In
garden and
will rot
house
which
due time
and supply
humus.
which usually owe their lightundue amount of sand, or may consist almost entirely of sand, we may add stiff loam and clay to give it greater body and a more retentive character. As such soils are usually deficient in humus, vegetable matter also may be added with advantage. Whether the treatment is designed to render a heavy soil lighter or a light one heavier, the aim of the garden maker should be to secure a well-drained bed or border, the soil of which, to a depth of at least two feet, Is of a workable consistency and not likely to suffer from exlight soils,
On
ness to an
tremes of weather, either in the direction of drought or continued wet.
Such a
soil
will
admit
air
air as
easily as
it
admits moisture, and

ing the
performs a very improcesses of
portant function In "sweetening" and purifysoil,
by hastening those
decomposition which are always taking place. In soils of the heaviest kind it may be
necessary
to
introduce
subsoil
tile,
drainage
by
means
of
agricultural
or rubble
drains
78
laid
GARDEN PLANNING
at regular intervals, but the gardener would be wise to avoid land which could be rendered workable only by such means. Drainage in that case would have to be carried out over the whole of the ground and not merely beneath the borders.
On
stony land the operation of trenching
affords a
good opportunity
I
excess of stones.
ing, unless a
for removing an do not recommend screen-
very coarse screen is employed, because a certain proportion of stones is an advantage to the soil, helping to keep it loose
and workable.
It
is
therefore generally ad-
visable to throw out the larger stones only.
There cannot be two opinions about the of deep working, and it only needs to be tried and the results noted to impress the most sceptical gardener of its value. I now pass on to a consideration of the form and disposition of beds as picturesque elements in the garden. I need add nothing to what I have already said about borders, be-
wisdom
cause their position generally determines their

form, and aspect decides their position.
I
used
the term
"bed"
for
to
distinguish
detached
compartment
flower growing.
Beds
are
79
most often formed in turf. Sometimes, howthey are given a background of ever,
gravel,
desired.
particularly
when
a formal
effect
is
Whatever the background, the form

as
is
of bed,
it
regards
its
outline,
is
important, and
essential that
we should not outrage good
taste
by indulging
I
character.
in anything of eccentric have already pointed out the
disadvantages
from
practical
standpoint
of such shapes as crescents, stars,

figures
having acute
objections
angles.
and other Did not these

should
still
practical
count,
decry these shapes because of their obvious

artificiality.
The
outlines
by which we bound
our flower beds should not be of a character

to fix the eye and divert our attention from
the flowers.
Another objection to these

is
bi-
zarre shapes
the great aggregate length of
their boundaries in comparison with the space
they enclose.
This disproportion means that
the actual length of edging to be kept trimmed
and cared for is much greater than is necessary, and where beds of this kind exist in numbers
the extra labour
is
not negligible.
To
take a concrete case, the boundary length
8o
GARDEN PLANNING
shown
in the illuscircle of the
of a five-pointed star, as
tration,
compares with that of a

as five to three.
it is
same diameter
A circle,
and
is
well
known, encloses the

figure
largest
amount of space
smallest length
in relation to its circumference,
therefore
of
the
which has the
boundary.
The
octagon,
hexagon, and pentagon come next in economy

of boundary,
and the square and rectangle
Fig. 13.
Shapes
of beds
follow.
If
the
gardener goes beyond these
simple
lavish
he
is
necessarily become do not mean to say that on that account to confine himself to
shapes
he
will
of edging.
We must have variety form and scope for fancy. It is well, however, to have our eyes open to the consequences
those shapes alone.
in
of
indulging
in
sprawling
and
attenuated

forms,
8l
which
are
prodigal
little
of
margin but
enclose comparatively
flower space.
Of the forms
I
of
bed
in
general use, and
admissible on practical and artistic grounds,

give
some examples, omitting the
circle,
square, and rectangle as sufficiently indicated
by
their names.
OC3
82
GARDEN PLANNING
it is
the grass on which
placed,
if it
comes
suf-
ficiently near those outlines for it to matter.
square bed set in an oval grass plot would not harmonize so well with its outline as a circular or oval bed, as I have already pointed
out in connection with groups of beds. So in a square or rectangular plot of limited dimensions a square or rectangular
bed would best

it is
please the eye.
In designing a group of beds

to
not sufficient
throw together several components bearing no relation to each other in shape. On the contrary, there should be a rigid harmony This is in shape between the components.
best secured
of
by giving attention
is
to the strips
sward or gravel which separate them, and

good
rule
to
make
these
strips
of
equal width throughout their length, so that

the sides of adjacent beds are parallel with
each other.
This
is
made
it
clear in the next illustration.

in
Practical
considerations
connection
with
mowing make
desirable that this strip of sward

less
should not be too narrow, say not

eighteen inches.
than
In groups of beds in gravel,
the separating strips
become
possible paths,

and
their
83
minimum width may
therefore be
fixed at
two feet. Examples of groups
of flower beds will be
found in
plenty in the garden
plans in a
later chapter.
As regards the
size of a bed,
or of the corn-
Fig. 15.
Relation
between beds
in
a group
ponents of a group, no precise limits can be laid down. A bed may consist of a square
measuring two feet each way,
if
intended to
accommodate
a pillar rose.
On
the other hand,
very large beds are sometimes introduced, when
they are in scale with their surroundings and
84
a bold effect
GARDEN PLANNING
is
aimed
is
is
at.
In most cases, how-
ever, nothing
gained by making a bed of

represented
greater area than
by a
circle
of twelve feet diameter.
In groups of beds it is well to have a central component which dominates the group. But too great disparity in size between it and those
about
it is
not desirable.
is
When
the
a series of groups
to be made, as,
for instance, along the grass bordering a drive,
same design should not be repeated

It
is
in-
definitely.
better to repeat
it, if
at
all,
at
considerable intervals, employing other designs

in
between.
single beds,
able
in
The same applies to a series of though monotony is not so noticethat case, particularly if the form
is
employed
series
a simple one.
of equal
For instance, a and similar rectangular beds
bordering a long straight stretch of grass
may
be quite inoffensive, but even in that case it would be better to break the line at equal distances by making a wider interval between
adjacent
beds at every third or fourth bed,

a simple kind of grouping,
series
thus introducing
which always looks better than a regular

like the cars of a freight train.
85
The gardener
trouble
of his beds,
has always to consider the
Involved in maintaining the shapes
and this should make him cautious about indulging in figures the geometry of
is
which
not very obvious.

is
With rectangular
circular beds,
beds the stretched cord

for the turf trimmer,
always a sure guide
and with
or those
bounded by
straight lines
and parts
of a circle, the radius cord attached to a stake at the centre of curvature

for
is
a simple expedient
It
is
controlling
the
shape.
otherwise
with "fancy" shapes, when the eye alone can
be called upon to keep things

Opinions
differ
right.
on the question
if
of
camber
in the surface of the soil,
we may judge by
examples, some preferring to keep the surface
and others to heap it up until the bed takes on the semblance of a gigantic pincushion. Safety lies in the happy medium. Some camber is desirable as a means for throwing off the water during heavy showers, and it
flat,
improves
in
the
appearance
are
of
all
the
flowers,
particularly
when they
of a height, as
bedding practice.
drain off the
Excessive camber tends
to
moisture from the crown
of the bed.
86
GARDEN PLANNING
Beds
In gravel,
flat
if edged with box, should be on the surface, otherwise the
kept nearly
moisture which gravitates to their margins would tend to carry soil out upon the gravel
surface.
CHAPTER VII
Construction of Walks and Drives
The
it
first essential in
a garden path
is
that
should present a firm surface, durable under

it
the ordinary conditions of the traffic

bear, which,
has to
be
it
remembered, includes not

roller,
only foot
traffic,
but the passage of
mower, and garden barrow. It must also be well drained, so that after
showers
its
surface does not hold puddles or
long remain wet.
no detail in the garden which conmore materially to its general good appearance and to the comfort of its users than a well-made and well-kept path.
is
There
tributes
Drives designed for carriage
traffic
may
also
be referred to
in this
chapter, as practically
the same principles of construction apply to

if much used by wheeled vehicles and not merely for show, the surface material must be such as will not cut up in daily use;
them, though
87

in fact, their
GARDEN PLANNING
making should involve the
ordi-
nary principles of road construction.
down the line of a drive, if any made from the straight, the curves should make wide sweeps. Abrupt turns in
In laying
is
departure
carriage drives are apt to lead to unlooked-for

surprises
on dark nights.
for a carriage drive
The minimum width

be taken as ten
feet.
may
There are two points in a drive which call on the part of the designer, If the viz., the entrance and the terminal.
for special attention
drive enters the plot at right angles,

to set the gates
it is
well
as to
is
back from the road, so
make space
for vehicles to turn,
and
this
especially necessary
when
It
the drive leaves a
narrow thoroughfare.
is usually done by boundary hedge curve inward toward the gates, or curved wing walls
making the
railings or
may be
erected enclosing a space approximating
a semicircle.
When
it
the drive enters the plot at an angle
should break
away from the thoroughfare
by
or
a curve which meets the latter at a tangent,

if
from a curved thoroughfare, the two curves
should flow gracefully into each other; in other
CONSTRUCTION OF WALKS AND DRIVES

words, they should have a
line.
89
common
tangent
It
is
not unusual to find the course of a drive
so laid
down
is
that
its
length
it
is
unnecessarily
great, the idea being that

tor.
impresses the visi-
This
a waste of material
and of space.
Fig. 16.
Entrance
to drive
On
level
ground a straight drive leading to
the house the best.
by the Curved
shortest route
drives,
is
generally
however, are not
objectionable provided their lines run in bold
sweeps, and they

for
may
afford
an opportunity
privacy
is
screening the
house
when
desirable.
On
sloping ground the course of the drive
90
GARDEN PLANNING
must be determined with a view to ensuring an easy gradient, and in such case it maybe necessary to use curves freely.
Fig. 17.
The carriage-turn
Where
the drive reaches the house entrance
an expansion should be made to permit of vehicles turning, and it should be wide enough

to allow
9I
them
to turn on a sufficiently large
radius
to prevent
damage
to the road surface.

is
The form
if it is
of the "carriage-turn"
if
immaterial
is
large enough; but
space
restricted
figure
it is
better to adopt the circle, or

it.
some
approximating
In the case of a semicircular drive having

separate entrance and exit gates, the carriage-
turn
is
unnecessary, but
may
be retained
in
some form
house door.
a
as a concession to the eye,
which
naturally looks for a free space opposite the
The coming of the motor car has introduced new and insistent problem in driveway en-
trances to suburban plots
in the
open country
lie
estate the only extra modifications
in the
necessity of greater, gentler curves.
The factors
to be considered in the smaller place have been

well presented in Country Life^ October 1922,
thus:
tion the
Width between automobile tires, runway takes relative to lines of
direcstreet
curb, width of parking space between sidewalk
tive slopes in
and curb, elevation of sidewalk above curb, relawalk and curb, elevation of sidewalk above curb, relative slopes in walk and curb, general character of
ground as respects
lines
and
92
GARDEN PLANNING
grades, and textural finish suited to conditions.
The average
is
distance between centres of tires
four feet nine inches.
Add to this one foot six

tire,
inches to allow nine inches outside of each
and the result, six feet three inches, is a serviceable width for the automobile runway. Six feet
six inches
is
quite
commonly used and

all
is
a good
width under nearly width

It
is
circumstances, unless
curbs be built on the outside,

will
when the
is
overall
be increased by about eight inches.

eighteen
assumed that each runway
inches wide with a grass plot between.
They
are sometimes built twelve inches and twenty-
four inches, the former being too narrow and the

latter unnecessarily wide.
The ramp should

better,
in
no case have a width
less
that the overall width of the runway.
It is
when ramp and runways do not

by
a sidewalk, to
are separated
join but have the narrow
part or throat of the

ly
ramp equal
to or bur slight-
wider than the width of the runways.
This
will give the effect of continuity of the side lines.
The width
will
of the opening along the street curb

local conditions.
vary according to
a driver will do
From
observations and measurements to determine
what
when turning
off
the street

on to the ramp
it is
93
figured that eight feet six
inches should be the
minimum
it is
clearance allowis
able and that ten to twelve feet
preferable.
In laying out a
far as service
ramp
well to be liberal so
is
concerned at the same time
heeding the dictates of esthetics which

the least possible display of cement.
demand
For ordinary cases and pleasing to the eye,

the opening width of twelve feet
is
sufficient for
an approach from either direction, and the

throat opening,
made equal
to the overall width
of the runway, gives the correct appearance
when viewed from the front. The side Hnes of the ramp come into the Hne of the walk at a
right angle.
is
essential in
For the most pleasing results this normal cases. The ramp curbs
articulate
should be
made to
the street curb.
on easy curves with bad joint or a sharp angle
where the two come together is certain to spoil the appearance of the work. The track of the car as it approaches and enters the grounds is on a curve, and it is only rational to curve the
side lines of the
If the
ramp. runways are eighteen inches wide, any driver can keep on them while backing out, and
curbs are not needed as a guide.
94
Gravel
GARDEN PLANNING
Paths
Much
quality of the gravel.

are
little
depends upon the There are gravels which

Gravels
better than shingle, being almost or
entirely devoid of binding material.
of this kind will never
make
is
a firm path, and
path of loose pebbles
objectionable on
account of the
liability of
the smaller stones
to be carried on to the grass.
After staking out the course of the path, the

soil
must be excavated to a depth of twelve bottom is reached, and taken bodily away. The trench must then be
inches, or until a firm
filled
in
with rubble, brick rubbish, or other
light material, to provide drainage
and to en-
sure a firm foundation.
Over
this
may
be put a layer of shingle or
coarse gravel screenings, say three inches thick,
which should be formed with the rake to a

curved surface or camber
gravel
in cross-section.
The
may
then be evenly distributed over
the surface to a depth of from two to three

inches, care being taken to keep the line of
its
crown straight
beneath.
in the direction
of the path's
length, but preserving the
camber of the layer

the
roller
After
liberal
watering
should be put to work.
The
free use of
water at

this Stage
is
95
important to success, as
consolidation
it
ensures
gravel
the
subsequent
its
of
the
roller.
and prevents
adhering to the
The
correct amount of water
may
be determined
by noting the action of the roller, which should carry before it a wave of creamy liquid, a mix-
Fig.
i8. Path foundation
ture of water with the binding constituent of
the gravel.
The
roller
should be a moderately
heavy one.
at least
After the path has been brought

it
to a fair surface
should be
left
if
twenty-four hours, and
unused for no rain falls
during that interval so

Cinder Paths
These
much
the better.
are dismal things in
the flower garden, though they have a sphere

of usefulness in the vegetable plot.
They
also
may
be
made
but
Tar Paths
durable,
When well made these are very

their
as directed for gravel paths.
colour
is
against
them,
soft
and
in hot
weather they are apt to become

seen
tar
on the surface; the same apphes to asphalt.

I
have,
however,
paths the stony
96
constituent
GARDEN PLANNING
of which
was a gray
material,
probably limestone, not altogether unsightly

after the surface layer of tar
had disappeared.
Tar and other paths made of impervious material should not be flanked by impervious
tiles,
or water will collect at their sides.
Cement
in colour
Paths
These
are
unsympathetic
and Hable to crack under the influence
of frost.
To guard
against cracking a good
proportion of sand should be used in mixture,
and the path should be

at
least
six
laid
on a concrete basis
inches
thick.
Cement may be
it
coloured with iron oxide (red ochre) to give

a
warmer and more genial hue. Brick Paths Next to gravel the
brick path
it
is
holds
first
place: indeed, in
my
opinion,
preferable to a gravel path in most circumstances,

its
only drawback being
its
want of
flexibility,
fines.
it
which
unfits
it
for
use in curved
Its
advantages are the ease with which

its
it
may
be kept free from weeds,
durability,
off"ers
good colour, and the opportunity

artistic eff"ect.
for
In gardening, the old order of
things dies hard, and gardeners are shy of adopt-
ing anything savouring of novelty.

brick path
is
Yet the
not altogether a thing of to-day.

It
97
its
may
be met with in
many
old gardens,
cheery red surface worn into hollows, but ever
dry owing to the porous nature of
its
material.
a hint,
From
and,
if
this
observation
we may take
we
decide upon a brick path, be careful
to obtain bricks of a kind
which are not imperreadily be tested
vious to water.
They may
by plunging one
pears after
it
into a pail of water
and noting
In
the speed with which the surface water disap-
has been lifted out again.
point of cost, brick paths do not compare un-
favourably with gravel, but
much depends upon

prepared as for a
the price of each material ruling in the district.
rubble foundation
is
gravel path, and dressed over with finer

terial,
ma-
over which
is
put
layer
of finely
screened gravel or builder's sand, which must
be raked to a level surface.
The good appear-
if any camber were given to the surface, but on dead-level ground there may be half an inch difference of level between the sides and centre of a three-foot path. The bricks should be laid flat upon the sand
ance of brick paths would be marred
perceptible
without mortar or cement, pressed down firmly
and into close contact, and kept
in true line
98
GARDEN PLANNING
a stretched cord.
It
is
by the use of commence by
best to
laying the marginal bricks on
one side from end to end, and to select the side which comes against
turf, as that helps to
keep
the bricks in place.

All bricks are
less
more or
is
curved in the burning.

side
The concave
easily
detected by glancing along

the edge, and should be
laid
downward, otherwise
the bricks will acquire a
tendency to rock and be-
come loose. Having laid the path

margin on one
side,
and
made sure thatitis straight

and true from end to end, may be built up to it, but before proceeding with this some idea must be formed of how
the centre
=1L-L-LTi-i::
Fig. 19.
Design
lor
brick path
the bricks are to be disposed.

laid in parallel lines,
They may be
is if
breaking joints, which
the simplest plan, and produces a neat
not

ambitious
effect,
99
or a pattern
lines
may
be worked
in
out on some such

illustration.
as indicated
the
In this
it will
be seen that whole

It
is
bricks
are used throughout.
not desirinvolves
of
able
to
adopt
a
of
pattern
bricks,
which
because
much
ends.
If
cutting
the
difficulty of
making neat
is
joints with the cut
the centre part
well laid
the other
its
marginal
free side
line of bricks will lie
neatly along
and complete the path. In bedding the bricks upon their seating the sand may be added to or removed, as occasion requires, to bring the upper surface of
the bricks to the general level.
The
principal
precaution needed
is
to bed each brick firmly,
so that no subsequent subsidence of individual
bricks can occur.

If
preferred,
the
marginal
say,
of
bricks
may
two
but
be laid on edge, to stand,

inches
about
centre,
above
practice
the
is
level
the
that
not conducive to
efficient
drainage.
I
have pointed out that the brick path can

tiles,
dispense with edging
but to make
edging
it
it
serve
the purpose of the
tile
must be
100
GARDEN PLANNING
brought into proper relation with the ground on either side. That is best done by adopting the rule of making the level of the path at its edges the
same
(when it skirts a grass and an inch and a half higher than the edge of the border when it comes against the soil. This is shown in the sectional illustration.
as that of the turf
plot),
Fig.
20.-
Section
The weight of ^^^^HP^** the bricks keeps them in place, but ^^ is well to Comof brick path
pact the
soil
of
the border where
comes against the path by ramming, to ensure that the bricks on that side do not get out of place. In the case of very
it
light soils I
have found
it
desirable to push a
few
slates
down
into the soil at the outer
mar-
gin of the path, burying

level.
them
as far as the soil
If this is done at every fourth brick, and at a joint, the whole is made fairly secure. Grouting with cement would perhaps be a safer expedient, but I have not found it necessary. On sloping ground, where the slope crosses
the path, the latter

slope of the ground,
may continue
and
it
the natural
should be
made

quite flat* on the surface, so that water
lOI
may
drain off at the lower margin.
When the bricks have been laid the joints may be filled up with loose sand, watered to
carry
it
down, and again
filled
up to a
level
with the surface.
Whatever
to run
ideas the gardener
may have
about
pattern-making, he should not allow his fancy
away with him.
Over-elaboration of
pattern in so utilitarian a feature as a garden
path would be too assertive.

not desirable.
The
simpler
the design the better, though undue repetition

is
Bearing in mind the fact that bricks measure four

inches in width,
it
is
evident that
the path width
dimension, a
must be a multiple of that fact to be remembered when the

is
width of the path
Composite Paths
all
In
being settled.
this category I Include
tiles
paths In which bricks or
are used in
combination
cobble
with
concrete,
stone
mosaics,
I
stones,
and other
like
materials.
shall first refer to those In
which bricks are
*To avoid misapprehension I may say that I use the words "flat" and "level" in their strictly separate senses. An inclined path may be flat but is not level. A level path is flat of necessity.
I02
GARDEN PLANNING
for
used
the
framework.
is
The
preparation
all-
of the foundation
the same as for an
brick path, except that sand will only be needed
where the bricks come.
The
ter
general idea of
a path of this charac-
may
be gathered
illustration.
from the
It will
be seen that
forms
the
brickwork
the basis of a pattern,
which
filling
is
completed by
the spaces beits
tween
with
rial.
members
matefound
ex-
another
I
have
road
macadam an
and I use it as follows: having made a mortar of and sand builder's

cellent one,
Portland cement, half

Fig. 21.
Design for a composite path
and
half, I
fill
in
the
spaces one at a time,

half- of fine
first
with an inch and a

then
to
gravel,
and
the
path level with mortar-

Whilst the latter
cubes, fitting
pressing
sides
is
IO3
soft I insert the
macadam
and
them
closely into contact
them down, but leaving

is filled I
their upper
slightly higher
than the bricks.

it
When
the space
go over
with a board and
a mallet, beating
down
the cubes until they
are
all
level
is
with the bricks.
The exuding
mortar
that
transferred to the next space, and
one similarly treated until the whole

is
path
finished.
After
allowing
set,
an
hour
for the
mortar to partly
the path surface

stiff
may
be washed over with a
brush and
clean water, to remove the mortar which clings

to the top of the stone cubes.
In twelve hours
firm
as
the path will be set and

the
as
rock,
mortar
used
for
the
mosaic
work
taking hold of the bricks and tying the whole

together.
plan
less
is
satisfactory
fill
appearance
to
in the spaces
on the score of with cement

filling,
concrete, finishing with a rendering of cement.
Cobble stones make an excellent
and
give quite an old-world appearance to a path.
They should be
by the use
on end in dry sand, levelled and mallet, and then grouted with liquid cement poured amongst
laid
of the board
I04
GARDEN PLANNING
a pail until
it rises
them from
above the middle

to
of the pebbles.
Another mode of
filling
is
use
coarse
rubble blocks, setting them in mortar with the

aid of a builder's trowel.
Similar paths
tiles
may
for bricks.
be made by The expense is
substituting
greater and
more skill is required in the setting, which must be done on a bed of mortar. I do not
think that anything
tiles
is
to be said in favour of
instead of bricks.
They
are less porous,
and therefore do not dry so quickly. They are also more liable to be dislodged and broken.
Tile Paths
All-tile
paths used to be in favour
some suburban fore-courts, and frequently offended by reason of the violent contrasts
in
in the colour of the tiles.
tiles in large
path of hard red

tiles,
is
squares, or of oven
is
not
displeasing, but
not economical where paths
are long.
that the edging

Stone
Another disadvantage of the tile path tile cannot be dispensed with.

Paths
is
Flagstones
are
occasionally
met with in old gardens. I do not favour them for many reasons. One is that one cannot help associating them with the flagged
IO5
pavements of town; another that their colour

is
too cold to the critical eye;
yet another
that they wear unequally and soon
become
"dished," giving
I
rise to
the inevitable puddle.
have seen some good paths made of stone

if
waste, and
the gardener has the opportunity
of obtaining this material cheaply, of the right kind

will
and
it
is
i.
e.,
not too friable
it
make an
interesting path.
A good plan is to use it in a patchwork pattern

of the kind our lady friends call "crazy," for
which purpose
all
sharp
pieces.
angles
I
should
be
removed from the

waste path based
If
give an illustra-
tion that will carry a suggestion for a stone-
upon Japanese
practice.
the separate stones are well bedded, with
precautions to prevent rocking, no cementing
medium
is
needed.
In fact, the joints
may
be
designedly allowed to gape to permit the grass

to spring out of them, which will give an uncon-
ventional but not unpleasing effect to a path

crossing a lawn.
Red sandstone is an excellent material, and white stone is admissible, as it soon loses its glare, and tones down under the influence of weather and vegetable growth.
I06
GARDEN PLANNING
FiK. 22.
Design
for stone path
Fig. 23.
Design
for stone
path
IO7
The gardener with command

of material might use
it
of this class
form of steppingstones, as the Japanese do, but the effect so obtained must not be overdone. Its legitimate place is on the grass.
in the
Note
like fine
In the use of a non-binding material
it is well to screen out all which otherwise would adhere to the boots in wet weather and be carried into the house. Shells form an almost hopeless
blue stone
stuff
material for the garden. Their innate friability
precludes the separation of large from small,
and renders them the most persistent material

I
know
of for finding
Its
way
Indoors.
CHAPTER VIII
Grass as a Foundation
There
nature's
is
something delightfully soothing

verdant
turf.
in a well-kept stretch of
It
is
embodiment
of the sense of repose,
the mantle with which she covers the crudities

of man's handiwork, the best
background
for
our flowers, and, in most cases, the criterion

gardener.
by which we may judge the capabilities of the If turf we must have, let us have it green and fresh and innocent of spot or blemish.
Secondary as
picture loses
it is
to the flowers, yet
it
must
receive the best attention
The
is
much of
its
we can give it. charm if the frame
unworthy of
it.
We may obtain our grass in any of three ways: we may import turfs, sow seed, or be content with the old pasture grass as we find
it.
Just which
we
decide upon will be governed
by circumstances.
Old pasture
is not
always a success, particularly

108
GRASS AS A FOUNDATION
IO9
Upon heavy
too thin a
land.
It
may
be growing upon
find
in
it
soil,
and we should
be
full of
water-
logged in winter
and scorched
summer.
Moreover,
it
may
undesirable weeds,
and infested with insects ready to migrate to our beds and borders. On the other hand, we may be lucky in lighting upon some rich meadowland in which the conditions are favourable to the growth of good turf, and where thistles and other noxious weeds are conspicuous by their absence.
In such case
"leave well alone," and rejoice that
we may we are
tions.
saved the trouble and expense of further operaShould we be driven back upon one
of the other
two expedients, we must make our

to
choice
according
is
the
local
conditions.
Which
the more economical in cost, turf
or seed?
ourselves
This problem we may work out for when we know the cost of turf In
our
district.
We may
be able to get
it,
it
for the
labour cost of cutting
and,
if It
Is
near at
hand, the total cost
may
be
small.
But we
may have
which
will
to
pay
for our turfs at current rates^
vary according to the locality and
the proximity to an available source of supply.
About
thirty-six
hundred and thirty turfs would
no
here
GARDEN PLANNING
be required to cover a quarter of an acre, and
we
are faced with a large outlay for material
alone.
The same
piece of ground could be
sown with
one to one and one half bushels of grass seed costing about $5 per bushel, which is very slight Then the labour of turf outlay for material.
laying would greatly exceed the labour of sowing.
that
The principal advantage of using turfs is we obtain a close, matured grass surface more quickly than we can do by sowing. On
the other hand, there
is
always the risk that
our turf
tion of
may
contain an undue proportion of
weeds, though on this head a careful examinait in
bulk should enable us to form an

considered the best
if
opinion.
Though
sufficient
the spring
it
is
time for turfing,
may
be done at any time
and proper precautions are taken. Sowing can only be done with the certainty of a good result in the spring and autumn.
This
consideration
may
carry
weight with
gardeners
who
are anxious to secure an early
appearance of completeness in a new garden. Whether turfing or sowing be practised,

it is
equally necessary to prepare properly the
ground.
If levelling
III
has to be undertaken in
is
the interests of tennis and croquet, that

first
the
operation, and with

if
it
should be com-
bined draining,
the nature of the ground
demands
ing the
it.
In the levelling process the top-spit contain-
most valuable part
of the soil
must
be
first laid aside,
to be subsequently distrib-
uted
over
the levelled surface.
This done,
and the
levelling completed, the undisturbed
subsoil at that part of the
ground which has
been lowered must be forked over to a depth The whole surface may then of eight inches.
be
treated
with
well forked in,
decayed farmyard manure and the top-spit redistributed

soil
upon
If
it
to form a layer eight inches thick.

is
the original layer of

is
Insufficient,
it
now
the
time to
supplement
by an
from outside, or obtained as a by-product from some other Planks should be used part of the garden.
additional supply imported
where the barrow

ruts
will
is
in operation;
otherwise
to
be caused
that
are
not easy
obliterate.
Screening
layer
is
may
be practised
It
is
if
the surface
stony.
essential
when sowing
112
grass
seed,
GARDEN PLANNING
but of
less
moment where
is
turfs
are used.
The
face,
operation of laying the turfs

is
a simple
one once the ground
brought to a good sur-
but
it
should not be done immediately
after the
preparation of the ground.
Time
should be allowed for subsidence, particularly

if any part of the ground has been banked up above the natural surface. If rain super-
venes so
der the
much
soil in
the better, as
it
will
hasten
the subsidence, disclose inequalities, and rena better condition to weld with
the
new turf. The turfs should be

up with
laid
in
close contact
over the whole surface, gaps at the joints being

filled
fine soil as the
work proceeds.
be made good come under the workman's observation, with the same material. After all is laid, the surface must be gone over with the beater,
Inequalities in the ground
as they
may
and
all
upstanding
places
treated
with
It
until they accord with the general level.
If
no rain immediately follows, the turfs may be submitted to a good watering, after which the beater should be used again, and any hollows and gaping joints should be filled up with soil.
After a day or two's
rest,
II3
the roller should be
brought Into operation to further compact

the
that,
rolling
surface
and
reduce
Inequalities.
After
the
usual
operations
of
mowing and
calls
may
It
be performed as occa.ion
is
for them.
well to look for early indications
of weeds
on
newly
all
turfed
ground, and to
promptly eradicate
Before sowing
is
that appear.
attempted the ground must

It should
be well compacted by treading or rolling until

it
will
no longer take footprints.
be then lightly raked over to provide lodgment

for the seed.
The
operation of sowing
is
best
conducted on a calm day, and the best time

of year for the purpose
March
ber.
till
the end of April.
should not be later
from the middle of Autumn sowing than the middle of SeptemIs
Some
authorities are in favour of

soil is
autumn
sowing, for the reason that the

the dews heavy.
warm and
The quantity
square
too
feet.
of seed should not be less than
one quart of recleaned seed to three hundred

It
Is
better to err on the side of
much than
weighs
of
too
little.
bushel
of
lawn grass seed as usually understood

trade
in the
twenty
pounds.
Obtain
the
114
GARDEN PLANNING
closely
seed from a reliable firm and follow

their printed instructions.
Old seed purchased

if
from
local
sources,
even
bearing a well-
known name, may be

contain
disappointing, and grass
seed sold in bulk at small country stores
may
an undesirable percentage of other
seeds or chaff.
Sow
dry
with
broadcast, taking care to leave no bare
places; cover at once with a sprinkling of fine

soil
and
roll.
If
the surface
soil is
damp
it will
pick UD on the
it.
roller,
and bring the seeds

stretching black
Birds must be kept
away by
cotton or garden netting over the ground, or
by covering
similar
it
well with pea brush or other
bushy material which may be at hand.

grass plants should
The
ance
make
days.
their appearIf
within
twenty-one
it
rain
has
followed the sowing
may
be
earlier.
When
may
they have obtained a height of from
three to three and one half inches the ground
be rolled, and the next day the mower

it,
should be passed over

the ground.
taking the precaution

does not cut close to
in the best condition
to set the knife so that

It
it
It
must be
will
for cutting, or
drag up the young grass
plants instead of taking off their tops.
this, at intervals,
II5
After
the usual routine of roiling
and mowing may be followed, not omitting

watering
if
the weather proves dry.
the weeds which come most often to mock the lawn maker appear, they may be effectually dealt with by placing a pinch of dry table salt on the crown of each This kills them in a day or two. plant.
Should plantains
Sown
grass
is
materially assisted
if
treated
early with an approved fertilizer, of which the
seedsman
suitable.
If
may
be trusted to recommend one

appearance,
implies
moss makes
soil is
its
it
that the
out of condition, either owing

In most cases the by stimulating the
to the need for drainage, or to the absence of
food for the grass plants.

application of a fertilizer,
vigour of the grass plants, will cause the moss

to disappear.
Moss
is
in
itself
is
in
no sense
harmful, but
soil.
always an indication of a poor
Tennis and Croquet Lawns
These, of course,
and
I
should not only be dead level, but should
have
faultlessly flat surfaces,
may
here
give a few directions for levelling.
Il6
If
GARDEN PLANNING
possible,
position
is
is
should be selected
where the ground

level.
naturally approximately-
When
this
not feasible,
"^^
I
it
becomes
.1
iwnini-^*w&
Fig. 24.
Level
and straight-edge
necessary to transfer
soil
from the higher to
the lower parts of the ground.
The
operator
should provide himself with a long straight-
edge (say, seven feet long) and a

as well as
spirit-level,
a supply of stout wooden pegs.
He must first get the

level,
foundation approximately
using the straight-edge on the surface,

tall
or sighting from
pegs driven into the ground

fixed
carrying
cross-pieces
horizontally
by
means
of the level.
He
should then drive in
pegs over the whole surface six feet apart,
and standing
so
much above
amount
the foundation
as will allow for the
of surface soil to
it.
be subsequently distributed over
Taking
a central peg as a datum, he should work out-
ward, adjusting each peg in turn by means
II7
of the straight-edge and level until the tops of

all
are at the
fill
same
level.
It
only then re-
mains to
in the soil to the tops of the pegs,

4^
or slightly over, to allow for subsidence
and compacting by
rolling.
The pegs
may
The
has
be removed at
tennis
any time afterward.

court
of
feet feet,
net size
seventy - eight
by
thirty-six
or nine feet less in
width for the single
game.
Additional width
must be allowed the poles and

fore a
total
for
for
36ft.
the players, thereclear

Fig. 25.
_L_
Tennis court
space
hundred feet by fifty feet is not too great an allowance, and may be taken
as the
of
one
minimum compatible with

of the players.
full-sized
the comfort
and convenience
The
croquet
ground,
according
Ii8
GARDEN PLANNING
to the revised rules of the Croquet Association,
should measure thirty-five yards by twentyeight yards, or in feet one hundred and five
13-
II9
croquet lawn the designer has the choice of
two
itself,
courses.
He may
it
it
allot
it
space
to
enclosing
by a hedge
in
or screen of trees
or shrubs, and thus put
out of sight as some-
thing
not
altogether
harmony with the
decorative scheme of the garden, or he

let
it
may
frankly proclaim
itself
as
an obvious
feature
design.
and component part of the garden There is something to be said for

In a garden of straight lines the
both plans.
rectangle of turf set aside for tennis or croquet
would not be so conspicuous a feature as in a type of garden In which a naturalesque effect was aimed at, and winding walks were elements
in
the design.
is
There
no
need to
make hard and
fast
It
boundaries to the tennis or croquet lawn.
may
the
be constituted upon any convenient and
roomy stretch of level turf where game and horticulture are not likely to come into conflict. Tennis lawns made upon ground which carries a marked slope are not always sightly
sufficiently
features, reminding one of the idea one forms
of the
"hanging gardens"
of Babylon.
Such
lawns
may
be considered indispensable, and
I20
if
GARDEN PLANNING
they have to be made at the expense of

excavating and banking up, means should
artificial
much
be found to conceal their
outlines
by means
screening.
of shrubs, trees, or other suitable
The Bozvling Green
Revived
interest
in
bowls has induced some owners to

regulation size
install a
private bowling green on their ground.

is
The
It
forty yards square, but less

if
width
is
is
admissible
space
is
restricted.
usual to sink the green below the general
surface,
and
it
must be
truly
level.
sloping banks and the space adjacent to
The them
should be turfed, the former as a check to the

bowls, and the latter to provide
a
vantage
ground
for spectators.
The Grass Plot

in this
have already intimated

to
the importance of studying breadth of effect the

garden.
Nothing tends
so
destroy
character
much
as
the injudicious
chopping up of the grass space.
The shape
in a large
of the grass plot
is
determined
measure by the other elements of
the plan.
Yet there
are opportunities for the

if
gardener to go astray
principle for which I
he does not realize the

contending.
am
Take,
for instance, a
121
garden the boundaries of which

find,
converge.
The planner may
when he
has taken sufficient space for his borders and

paths, that his grass runs out to a
mere wedge.
In such event he would do well to take off the

acute angle
border or path.
by adding the space either to Again, in the making of

it
is
borders and beds
surprisingly easy to
'details,
lines.
produce awkward shapes in the grass

particularly
when working with curved

isth-
good
rule, therefore, is to
permit no acute
angles,
narrow
muses, tapering verges,

or crescent
grass.
horns
in
(See Fig. 27.)
In
the
rectilinear
treatment
of
small
difficul-
gardens these
ties will
hardly
arise,
but they
plot one.
is
may do
a
so in
cases where the garden

is
converging
Fg-
When the garden

the shaping
27. Acute
angles in grass
of sufficient size to call for treatment
in
curves,
of
the
more
careful
consideration,
demands the main object

grass
122
GARDEN PLANNING
to
being
avoid anything that
will
detract
from
the
breadth
of
effect,
of
which
the
items just enumerated are those most likely to

beset the inexperienced designer.
The
practice of loading the grass with an

it up into a condemned for the
archipelago of small beds, cutting
fretwork design,
is
to be
s^me
and
reason.
The
placing of beds on grass calls for restraint
The
on the part of the gardener. where a bed or group of beds could be placed with advantage to the garden picture, because he has an eye trained to proportion. Those who lack such training must first realize their deficiency, and then
discretion
artist "feels"
seek
for
guidance
by studying elementary
principles, of
which that applying to breadth
of effect, already sufficiently explained in these
pages,
is
The
one of the most important. accompanying illustration
(Fig.
28)
shows the correct way to correlate the bed

with the grass when the former
projecting space.
It
is
has to
fill
certainly better to err
on the
side of
having too few than too

It will
many detached
beds.
be useful here to accept
my injunction
123
about the grass verge, under which term may be included the strips which separate bed
from bed
a
in a group.
These should always have
parallel sides
and
minimum width
better
of eighteen inches.
Two feet is
if
space permits.
When
plot
is
a garden
situated
onslopingground,
if
the
slope
it
is
is
slight only,
better to let the
garden follow
it
Fig. 28.
Beds
in relation to grass
than to attempt
levelling,
is
provided that no considerable space
to be reserved for tennis or croquet.
On
may
larities
ground of irregular contours the irregumay call for modification, or they
be entirely desirable as affording oppor-
tunity for variety in the general treatment of the garden, according to the particular views
of the garden owner.
Whenever the character
of the ground
in the
is
such as to leave certain spaces
form of hollows, these hollows should
124
GARDEN PLANNING
filled
be
in
or drained; otherwise they will

in
:
become pools
wet weather.
As with
lines,
so with surfaces the curves should flow without
break, so that
we cannot
detect where one
runs into the other.
Grass slopes should be used sparingly, because they involve extra labour in the mowing
and are apt to suffer in time of drought. When necessitated by the nature of the ground, as
in a hillside garden,
they should not be steeper
than one in two, or both these disadvantages

will
be intensified.
in the
Another point to be considered

of a grass plot
is its is
making
level relative to the adja-
cent paths.
It
not unusual to find paths
sunk so much below the grass level that the soil is exposed beneath the turf. This allows soil to break away, or be washed out by the
rain,
to the detriment of the path.
It also
involves
additional
labour in trimming the

is
grass edges.
There
no need to allow more

is
elevation to the turf than
sufficient to
ensure
the
mower
is
clearing the gravel

if
when used on
is
the edge of the grass, and

there
grass.
this rule
followed
no danger of gravel straying on to the From two to three inches is quite
enough.
In
practice,
25
the
question
is
most
likely to present itself in connection
with path
making, when the gravel surface would have

to be regulated to ensure the above result.
When
to
soil,
it is
a case of grass in juxtaposition
as in the
making
of beds, the rule does
not
call for
such stringent observation, but to
satisfy the eye the grass edge should not stand
higher than three inches above the
soil.
If
much
less there is
the danger of
grass.
soil
and stones
grass
working on to the
Grass Paths and Edgings

is
Though
exists.
unsuited for paths, there are cases in which
it
may
be used,
as, for
instance,
when an
I
alternative
path
of
gravel
have
seen the grass path installed with excellent effect
where it gives quite a and finished appearance to that department. In the case to which I allude the ground had quite recently been meadowland, and the vegetable beds had just been cut in the turf, allowing main paths five feet
in the kitchen garden,
distinctive
wide, with narrower connecting paths of half
that width.
ical
cannot
commend
where
of
space,
but
there
room
this use of grass has its
economample advantages on
it
as
is
126
GARDEN PLANNING
is
the score of appearance, and
highly preferable
to the usual cinder path, which requires that
an edging be provided.
The
grass path also
may have
it
its utility in
the flower garden, though

existence
usually comes into
by some adventitious circumstance by design. A border skirting grass may have opposed to it a long bed, and the gardener may decide to connect the two by a
rather than
pergola.
This at once turns the intervening
grass strip into a path,
and
a very
charming
of
one, where the walker
may
find a tunnel
greenery, his feet on verdant turf, a canopy

of blossom overhead.
in
Grass edgings are used

I
both flower and kitchen gardens, and
have already referred to them by the term "verge." Each gardener will decide for himwhether the space at his disposal admits and whether the effêct to be obtained from it is commensurate with the
self
of such a feature,
labour Involved in
keeping
it
trimmed.
If
he has any doubts in the matter he should

forego the verge, because, uncared for,
it is
an unsightly and wasteful feature.
CHAPTER IX
How
It
is
TO Plan a Garden
well for the gardener to start with an
open mind. He should look for suggestions from the site, not omitting to take into account environment. The best garits immediate
dens are personal: they take their character
from their makers. am sometimes I

garden
asked
"What
style
of
and
would you suggest for my plot?" am tempted to reply, "The commonstyle."

is
sense
The
exact
treatment
rule.
for
given plot
not to be laid
down by
The
do so
gardener
may
not recognize the possibilities
of the site at first glance, but he will
when he has carefully studied it. In Chapter IV I showed the utility of straight lines in
to magnify the difficulties of planning,
do not wish and I may say at the outset that the more knotty problems arise most often in connection with
an oblong plot of limited
size.
I
127
128
plots of
GARDEN PLANNING
irregular
shapes
or
contours,
as
or
plots
unfavourably
conditioned
regards
of
aspect and surroundings.
The treatment
a small rectangular garden plot
may
be a very
is
simple matter, provided due weight

to aspect.
given
Yet even the smallest plot involves alternative modes of planning, and then the gardener must give his casting vote for that
one which, after satisfying the requirements of horticulture and the conditions which make
for
artistic
quality,
best
accords
with
his
personal views.
The
first
point to consider
is
the appor-
tionment of the various sections of the garden:
How much
Do
I
space do
.f*
require for vege-
table ground
want
I
a tennis or croquet lawn.?
Have
to
provide a
playground
for
children?
Must
limit
my
flower space to
in
what
can properly manage
my
spare time?
These
will
and
possibly
other
questions
In
occur to the planner, and he should answer

definitely before he starts to plan.
them
doing so he will naturally commence to evolve
HOW TO PLAN A GARDEN

some kind
like his
29
of skeleton idea of
what he would
garden to be.
His next step should

a plan of his garden
be to lay
down on paper
it
site to scale,
say one eighth of an inch to a

the house, indicating
foot,
and mark on
the position of the doors back

at the sides, as the case
and
front, or
may
be.
He
should
then add an arrow to show the north point,

to remind him, in the course of his work, of the
direction in
which the
fall.
maximum amount
gate
of
sunlight
will
premises are
by which the entered from the roadway must

its
The
be marked in
proper position.
This
much
accomplished, the gardener will have before
him
If
in bird's-eye
view the main factors that
should control his planning.
he has decided to grow vegetables, he

at once rule off on the paper as
may
much
space as he wishes to devote to that purpose.
Usually this
will
be situated at that part of
the garden remote from the house, and there

are excellent practical reasons for
it
occupying
be
at
that
position.
The
division
should
right angles to the garden's length in a garden
with parallel sides, even though the end fence

or wall
is
oblique.
Irregularity in the shape
130
GARDEN PLANNING
Is
of the vegetable plot
immaterial, and the

things
for
right-angled
division
squares
the
flower garden.
Leaving the vegetable ground

the next thing
is
for the present,
to locate the principal border,
and If the aspect is east or west, there should be no hesitation in giving it a place against the north fence, where it will receive full sun.
The planner may

with
this
therefore rule a line parallel

six
fence
feet
distant
line
at,
from
say,
it,
adding a second parallel

feet
three
If
beyond to define the
principal path.
space permits, a third line
may
be added, at
four feet beyond the second, to
mark
off
second border, the near side of which

the grass.
29)
will
will
be
Reference to the Illustration (Fig.
make these operations clear. The path is now represented by a narrow ribbon with no terminal at either end. We may now
consider the approach to and destination of
the path.
The near end must be coordinated

In
with the house door, as explained

chapter, and this could be done
oif a stretch of gravel
an
earlier
by marking
start
its
immediately behind the
house, from
which the path

is
may
journey.
Such a device
convenient when the
I3I
Fig. 29.
Typical
garden plan
Fig. 30.
The method of
offsets
132
aspect
is
GARDEN PLANNING
that assumed in the example, but
with a north aspect the space about the rear

of the house would be too valuable to waste as
gravel,
and another device would have to be

I
employed.
need not describe every possible
mode
of doing this, as
many examples
will
be illustrated in the plans which follow.

for the path's objective, I
As
have already offered
suggestions in an earlier chapter.
Though
direct
it is
a good rule to
destinations,
make paths go
an exception
is
to their
permissible and even desirable in a long gar-
den, where a single straight path would prove
monotonous feature. I therefore favour some device which breaks the line, such as may be contrived by cranking the path or by introducing an expansion into its length.
a
The cranked path

allowing
the
principal
gives
opportunity
to
for
border
terminate
vista
in a transverse extension,
is
by which the
sets
improved, and a
screening effect obtained.
We
will
assume that our path
out from
the gravel space immediately behind the house,
threads through our borders, and terminates

in,
say,
summer
house.
of the space to
the south of
The treatment it may now be

taken
in
I33
to
hand, and In deciding
how much
allot to the
border we must be guided by our
sense of proportion and by the value we set If space permits we upon our grass plot. may add a narrow border along the southern
fence
I
line.
I
have now traced what
may
call
the
evolution of a small rectangular garden.
The
treatment has been simple, as the case de-
manded.
so
As a
plan, the design ensures a proper
coordination of the garden with aspect, and
much
variety as
may
be obtained within
par-
so limited a space without over-elaboration.

It
need hardly be mentioned that
this
would not hold good for a plot with a different aspect, and for that
ticular treatment
reason
aspect
in this
It
Is
should
not be
copied
unless
the
approximately the same as indicated

to build
example.
The gardener has now

skyward.
up
use
his picture
This
Involves
the
of
such
natural objects as trees, shrubs, and flowers,
and of such
golas,
artificial
adjuncts as arches, perlike.
summer
houses, arbours, and the
Before he decides upon the placing of these

things he should sally forth to the
site,
plan
134
in
GARDEN PLANNING
hand, and take his stand, say, near the house
door, or in
some
in
central position from which
he
may hope
time to obtain a general view

in imagination
of his garden picture.

his
mind by building
There he may exercise upon his
ground plan, seeking to place such features

as he
may
decide to introduce into the garden.
He
will obtain suggestions
from already
exist-
For instance, the presence of a well-grown tree on neighbouring premises may

ing objects.
help
the picture,
enabling him to dispense
with the planting of trees on his own.

the other hand,
On
he
may
observe some un-
sightly object which it will be necessary to endeavour to screen from view.
Bearing in mind what
have already written
about "composition"
the term, he
in the artist's sense of
must avoid symmetry in masses, by other means. If he has decided upon a garden-house, let him have it built with a simple, pointed roof, and restrain his impulses in the direction of destroying its outlines with a maze of rustic work. Its pyramid form is useful in giving
and seek
for balance of effect
certain
punctuation
it
to
the
skyline.
He
may
even decorate
with a weather-cock,
HOW
in
TO PLAN A GARDEN
35
which would be quite appropriate and useful

the picture.
I
do not demand that the

out
garden-house shall stand

its
naked
amidst
surroundings;
it
will
be better associated
It
is
with trees and shrubs.
not desirable to
have a uniformity
structures.
If
in height in these artificial
arches or a pergola are introlet
duced into the scheme, do not
them soar
up to the
level of the
weather-cock on your
garden-house.
Trees are always useful in attaining that

the garden picture for which the designer must work. They must be placed so that their shadows do not intrude upon the flower borders, and, as I have already
necessary height in
stated,
their
arrangement must be innocent
of
symmetry.
Let no two be at the same distance from
your standpoint, and select them of different kinds and sizes. Grouping is preferable to
scattering,
or placing the
trees
in
"serried
rows."
By
carefully weighing these various points,

it
with the plan before you,
will
not be
difficult
to arrive at a provisional arrangement of the

accessories
we have been
discussing.
You
136
GARDEN PLANNING
next jot
may
down on
the plan where you
think an arch, tree, or pergola will be of value,
and you
labour
on paper.
will
then have
all
but completed your
Lastly, such smaller accessories as sundials^
Fig. 31.
Arrangement
of trees
vases,
and rockwork can be

time we have
located,
and
in-
dicated to scale on the drawing.

All this
left
the vegetable
plot alone, after cutting

territory,
it off
from the flower

it.
and we must now revert to
Some
gardeners
may
prefer to treat
it
as a thing

apart, to be concealed at
all costs.
37
Gardens,
however, are so small in these days of dear

land that
we cannot
afford
to
neglect the
possibilities of the vegetable plot in the general
garden
effect.
it
Therefore we should see
how
far
we can use
result
is
to increase the apparent space
at our disposal.
good way of effecting
this
to contrive that a flower border, or
continue from the flower garden and through the vegetable plot, thereby extending the garden vista to the extreme limit
borders,
into
of the ground.
In certain circumstances
it
may be
advisable,
for the sake of obtaining a particular effect,
to adopt a division between the kitchen
and
line.
flower garden which

It
is
not a straight
line.
may
The
be a bold curve or a cranked

division
may
be definitely marked by a
fence or hedge, or less conspicuously indicated
by an informal line of shrubs. Much depends upon the disposition of the other factors and
the gardener's views as to the desirability or
not of allowing his vegetable productions to

claim attention.
I
would not
for a
is
moment
contend that the kitchen garden
unsightly.
On
the contrary,
its
bold masses of green
may
138
GARDEN PLANNING
be valuable as background, and by no means

unbeautiful
in
themselves.
Still
there
are
times when the tenants of the vegetable plot

Brussels
do not look their best as, for instance, when sprouts tower lankily skyward, and peas are yellowing and sinking into disorder.
The planning
same general
style
of gardens of larger size than
the typical example just treated involves the

principles,
though the
details
and
is
of treatment
may
scale,
be different.
It
mainly a question of
though the inclusion
of additional features facilitated
by the
of
larger
area of ground available
may tend to complicate

mode
procedure
the
problem.
Still
the
should be along lines similar to those already

to the importance of studying aspect
and the planner must ever be alive and of building up a picture in three dimensions. Gardens of irregular outline may involve some early difficulties in planning, but they are generally amenable to treatment on common-sense principles, and not infrequently such gardens are, by their unusual shape, eminently adapted for obtaining picturesque effects. Examples of such gardens
described,
will
be found in a later chapter, reference to

which
will
39
afford
the reader more guidance
than further written description.
When, by reason
its
of the nature of the ground,
extent, or the special predilections of the
gardener, the main lines of the garden are to
be treated
is
in curves,
the key to the best result
To those who may have difficulty in thinking in curves, I may suggest that they first lay down the
not always so easy to find.
main lines of the plan in straight lines, afterward translating them into sinuous ones. This may be of some help, but it will not remove all the difficulties, and it is not easy to give
rules to cover the
It
whole ground.
may
be taken as bad practice, however,
to associate curves with straight lines, as, for
example, to oppose a straight grass edge to a
curved border, leaving a path of varying width

between.
I
am
not sure that the practice of

line
is
running a border, whose near
is
a series
of curves, along a straight fence
to be
Its
combest
mended, though
excuse
is
it
is
often done.
that the shrubs and taller plants
in part conceal the foot of the fence

its
and render
straightness less conspicuous.
In the laying
down
of curves
geometry helps
140
US but
little.
GARDEN PLANNING
The eye
is
the better guide,
and a length of rope an marking out the ground.

laid along the
excellent help
when The rope may be

If
proposed route of a curved path,

the
and
its
perspective appearance noted.
curve
fails
to satisfy the eye the rope can
be moved and rearranged until a good result

is
obtained.
All curves which
are parts of circles are
easily described with the help of a cord
and
centre peg.
When
has
first
setting out curves the course of
which
been
is
laid
down on the plan
the
method
illus-
of offsets
the easiest.
(See Fig. 30.)

in
is
This
tration,
line.
is
sufficiently explained
the the
where a boundary fence

line
datum
down, row
When
the curve passes over an open
space a special
either
datum by the use of a
must be
laid
stretched cord or a
of pegs sighted into line.
CHAPTER X
Sloping Gardens
Gardens upon
is
sloping ground,
if
the slope
considerable,
demand
special
treatment,
which
will vary according to circumstances. Such gardens may be made picturesque and
interesting,
but are hardly desirable acquisiThis

is
is
tions to the horticultural enthusiast.
particularly the case
if
the
aspect
other
than southern.
In a steeply sloping garden the aim should be a quite informal or naturalesque treatment.
Winding walks may be carried across the slope, turning upon themselves in an Irregular zigzag. Here and there pockets may be
carved
out
of
the
hillside
to
make
level
space for flower growing.

Terracing, the only effective
sufficient level space,
is is
way
of securing
always a costly matter,

considerable
it
and when the slope
result in a heavy, artificial effect as seen
would from
142
GARDEN PLANNING
the lower levels.
On
the whole
it
is
better
not to attempt too
much on
a steep
hillside.
The first
illustration indicates in sectional view

I
the treatment
should adopt. Trees and shrubs
may be used with

effect
good
the
to
mask
slopes
and outlines of
the
artificial work.
The
Fig. 32.
Terracing sectional
view
entrance
drive or walk
should be carried in a direction across

the slope as far as possible, and if excavation and banking have to be done, it may run sufficiently far back on either side to provide
space for flower ground.
Fig. 33.
Terracing sectional
of
view
In
the
case
small
gardens,
some
simple system of terracing like that indicated
SLOPING GARDENS
in
I43
is
the
second
sectional
view
the
best
treatment.
The natural slope is shown by a dotted line and it is evident just how much excavation and banking is necessary. By a little care in
fixing the levels
it
is
may
just
is
be contrived that the

sufficient
excavated
the banks.
soil
for
making
an example of a slope away from the house. When the garden slopes toward the house a different method should be
This
followed, because the effect of looking from a
low level up a slope
is
that
little
or nothing
on the
level
Is
seen.
Fig. 34.
Terracing sectional
view
Thus,
will
If
terracing
is
done with a view to
obtaining level stretches, the beds and borders
be hidden from sight until the observer

It
is
ascends to their level.
better, therefore,
that the terraced part should be given a slight

slope toward the house, as Fig. 34 shows. Gardens falling away from the house are
liable
to be very dry at the highest point.
144
GARDEN PLANNING
the other hand, gardens which slope to.
On
ward the house throw the rain-water to the lower level, necessitating some system of
drainage for carrying
it
away.
I
In treating of terracing in small gardens
do not use the term

terraces.
in the
sense of walled
Walls
are
costly
and not always
sightly adjuncts, especially in a small garden.
The drop from one level to the next may be made by means of a grassed bank, a retaining
board,
or
a
rock-faced
slope,
according
is
to
circumstances.
When
the
slope
Is
to
the
south, the face of the
bank
well placed for

I
treatment as an alpine garden, and

of no better
know
way
of dealing with
it.
Ôn grassed
Fig.
3S.
Steps in path
slopes
shrubs
may
be used to conceal the
horizontal margin of the slope.
Paths which pass from one level to another
SLOPING GARDENS
require to be stepped, and this
I45
many ways.
method
is
Possibly
fix
to
may be done in most economical wooden risers by nailing them

the
to stout pegs well driven into the soil at each
end, and to
fill
in the treads
with gravel beaten

fair
down and brought

as
to
surface.
Re-
taining boards should be fixed at the sides,
shown in the illustration. Gardens in which the natural slope is transverse to their length do not involve the same difficulties, and they are not usually found of such steep gradients,- or, if they are, their small width, compared with their length, makes the
problem of planning a simpler one. It often becomes feasible to effect a change of levels at the path line in some such way as appears
in this
sectional view.
Fig. 36.
Dealing
with a transverse slope
In this illustration
raised
it
will
be seen that a
border
is
made on
the higher side of
146
the
path,
GARDEN PLANNING
supported_ hy
a
retaining
If
board,
rubble wall, or by rockwork.
the lower
boundary
practice,
for
is
a fence, the water which drains

it.
to that level will tend to rot

therefore,
It
is
good
to
make
the fence open
face.
two or three inches above the ground surIf the boundary is a wall it may be
In neither case, however, would such
soil
necessary to introduce a rubble drain along

its
foot.
an expedient be necessary unless the
was
heavy and impervious one. A narrow border along the lower boundary will usually serve as sufficient drainage.
^5
Dealing with a transverse slope
transverse direction
When the slope is steep in a it may be necessary to reby

raising the lower side with
if
make
soil
the ground
taken from the higher, and

is
the lower
boundary
bank, as
it
would necessitate a would not be feasible to allow any

a fence this
depth of
soil
to
lie
in contact
with the fence.
SLOPING GARDENS
I47
The existence of such

tration (Fig. 37)
in
is
bank
as seen in the illus-
not a very sightly feature
any garden, and should only be adopted

in
when the circumstances preclude any other

arrangement, and
is
that event the best plan
to plant the head of the
bank with shrubs

is
or with a hedge.
The only other

in
case to be mentioned
is
that
which the slope
diagonal, and for that
no special guidance can be offered, because

so
much
its
will
depend upon the amount of slope
and
direction considered with reference to
aspect.
surface in such a
The aim should be to model the way as to secure the proper
conditions for horticulture and the convenience

of the
garden user, without attempting too

of
much work
plateaus
an
artificial
character.
It
should always be remembered that dead-level
on
a
as
considerable
slope
proclaim
themselves
it is
man's
handiwork,
wherefore
well to conceal as
much
of this
work
as
possible.
In some cases
a compromise
it
may
be desirable to effect
by not
series
setting out to bring the
ground to a
of levels,
but by merely
series of slopes
modifying the original slope to a
148
GARDEN PLANNING
In
all
of less gradient.
such problems the main
point
is
not to outrage Nature, but rather to
coax her in the direction in which we wish

her to go, covering up our footsteps as
we
proceed in the work, so that the

shall not disclose too obviously
final result
it
what
owes
to spade work.
As
for
steps are necessary adjuncts in sloping

I
gardens,
may
give
some further suggestions
making them.
alternative plan to the one already deis
An
scribed
that shown in the third figure in the
illustration (Fig. 38), in
made
of stout boards supported
which the treads are on pegs driven

is
Into the ground.
Yet another plan
to attach
the treads to cheeks of wood, making a single
complete structure, as
in the fourth figure.
When
I
the path passes
through
rockwork
always build the steps of rock pieces.

Bricks
may
be employed for steps, either

laid loose, as in the first figure.
set in
mortar or
They
are better laid
on edge, and
it
is
well
to chip off the angle where the tread and riser
meet, or to use bull-nosed bricks.

Slabs of stone
make good
if
steps,
and by
their
weight keep
in place
well bedded, without
SLOPING GARDENS
149
Fig.
38. Steps
ISO
GARDEN PLANNING
it is
the need for cheeks, though the risers of brick to prevent
best to
make
soil
from working
out from beneath the tread.

slopes the riser
On moderate
at an angle
ma^
be of
is
soil left
and
turfed.
There
something quite
un-
tJ^
Fig- 39-
Spreading
steps
conventional in such steps as illustrated in the
second figure.
When
the slope
is
moderate, but long,
it is
well to break the line of steps into

flights, as a
two or more
good
steps
concession to appearances.
is
When
effect
in
the difference of level

result
small, a
will
from
spreading
the
one of the ways shown

I
in Fig. 39.
have avoided reference to architectural features associated with steps, as, for instance,
side
and wing
walls, pillars,
and caps.
These,
SLOPING GARDENS
if
I5I
introduced into a small garden, should be
unpretentious, and as far as possible designed

to accord with the architecture of the house.
If
capped with
flat
stones the pillars
may
carry
vases with good effect, always provided the

latter
are chosen with taste
and a sense of
proportion and fitness for their surroundings.
CHAPTER XI
The Rock Garden
There
is
no feature
in the
modern small
garden so badly contrived as the rock garden, or "rockery," as it has come to be called. It is too often but a formless heap of stone rubbish
or clinkers in which a few sickly ferns struggle
for existence.
A rock garden need not be large

it
to be interesting, but
must be properly con-
structed and placed where the sun can reach

it.
To
the real flower-lover the rock garden
There is no corner of his domain which yields more interest. It is a garden withis
a delight.
in a garden, a place
own way, rewarding him with

tiful
where nature has all her quaint and beauflowers and varied foliage from early
It
is
spring to winter frosts.
well to under-
stand the scope and purpose of the rock garden, a thing

all
too often overlooked.
The
common
stone
plan of heaping together a mass of

curiosities
IS2
and mineral
into a grotto-
THE ROCK GARDEN

like structure,
soil, is
53
and sprinkling the whole with the outcome of a misunderstanding of

Let us look into the matter
just
first principles.
closely,
and
see
why
our alpine plants

masses.
should be associated with such apparently uncongenial material

clear,
if
as
stone
The
answer
is
we
inquire as to the character
of their native habitat.
The
casual observer
who
will
has wandered through the Swiss uplands
have seen a wealth of plant
life,
jewelled
with gorgeous blossom, clinging apparently to

the bare surface of a rock, and he will have won-
dered
how the
solid stone could furnish
food for
Yet if he had pushed his investigation carefully on the spot he would have found that every plant was rooted deeply
so luxuriant a display.
in
is
some
crevice filled with
soil.
is
Here, then,
the explanation.
The rock
but the flower
pot.
But
it
serves a very important purpose
as such, holding a reserve of moisture gathered
from the sky, and yearly collecting an

ditional store of soil, the fine debris of the
tain-side.
ad-
mounits
Thus
the plant has availed
itself of
natural conditions eminently adapted for

welfare,
and therefore it flourishes. The rock garden is man's attempt to imitate
154
GARDEN PLANNING
if it fails
these natural conditions, and

its
in this,
its
principal function,
how can
it
serve
pur-
pose as a
home
for the plant?
The
those
idea, not
by any means uncommon with

closely into the
in
is
who have not looked

itself
question, that there
some magic virtue
the rock
food suitable
by which these plants obtain for their needs, must be abanis
doned.
The
function of the rock pieces in

twofold.
our alpine garden

of the plants but, better
They
serve to
give us a suggestion of the natural environment
we wish
to grow, which
is
good;
still,
they conserve the moisture in

in all weathers.
the
soil,
and thus ensure that the plants have

it
a constant supply of
This being
so, it is well to select

is
our rocks
from material which

capable of holding in
reserve of moisture.
is
porous, and therefore
its
substance a certain
Yet an impervious stone

it
better than none, as
reduces the area of
soil
subject to evaporation.
The
in
next point to understand
is
that the
soil
our rock garden must be well drained.
This
is
may
age
be attained by ensuring that

assisted
it
of a
porous character and of sufficient depth. Drainis
by elevating the rock garden.
THE ROCK GARDEN

or,
55
what comes
is
to the
same
thing,
by sinking
In
Its floor
below the general
level.
It
not necessary to be lavish of rocks.

soil
well-designed rock garden the
should
bulk at least as largely as the rocks.

Position
far
The
It
is,
rock garden
should be as
as
removed from a formal environment

If it
is
possible.
or should be, our best attempt

associated
artificial
to imitate a piece of nature.
with
walls,
greenhouses,
or
other
surroundings the illusion

better also to keep
it
falls
to pieces.
It
Is
away from the
neigh-
whose roots would find their and exhaust it, and whose leaves In autumn would sadly litter its surface. Moreover, it is well to be consistent in our mimicry, and to remember that the landscape Is Innoct^nt of trees at the altitude where alpine
bourhood of
trees,
way
into the soil
flowers thrive best.
Aspect
fied,
The
above conditions being

is
satis-
the only other one of importance
that
the alpine garden should have a sunny aspect,
though
this does
not imply that every part
must enjoy full sun; nor would that be desirable,

since there are plants
which
will thrive all
the
better in shade or partial shade.
156
GARDEN PLANNING
great charm of the rock garden
is
One
its
variety,
and that can best be maintained byproviding all the conditions of aspect and exposure demanded by the various plants availMaterials
able for our purpose.
Perhaps
is
the best material for
the purpose
sandstone, but in most cases

is
the gardener has to be content with what
most
tuffa,
easily
obtainable
in
his
district.
A
do.
hard, close-grained sandstone, granitic rock, or

limestone,
and
conglomerate
will
Soft stones which crumble
away under weather

its
influence are obviously unsuitable.

If natural stone
is
unprocurable, or
cost
prohibitive,
shift
then
the
gardener
must make
with brickyard waste, but he should select

is
that which
Clinkers,
porous.
vitrified brick
fragments, dressed
stone blocks,
portions of decayed statuary,

sea-shells
lumps of alabaster, minerals, and

Tree stumps
should never be seen in the alpine garden.

also should be avoided, as
they
harbour fungi to the detriment of the plants.
The
stone pieces should not be too small nor

size.
too uniform in
Good
bold pieces up to
the largest size the gardener can conveniently
THE ROCK GARDEN
57
handle should be procured, and by preference

they should be quadrangular, though only very
roughly
so.
Professional constructors sometimes use an

artificial
stone
made on
the spot,
by
plastering
a coloured cement over a basis of rough brick-
work.
this
kind,
have seen some very clever work of indistinguishable from a natural

all I
out-crop of rock, and, for

trary,
it
may
skilled
serve
excellently.
know to the conBut unless
done by
hands accustomed to imitating

I
the form and stratification of the natural rock,

it
would be a
failure.
have seen
it
suggested
that good imitation rocks
may
be made by
the liability
coating brickyard waste with Portland cement.
The
objection to these processes
is
of the artificial surface to be flaked off
by
frost
or rough usage, thereby exposing the fraud.

Soil
In
this particular
we cannot do
better
than follow nature.
We
have seen that in
alpine regions the crevices in the rocks

filled
become
with fine debris, the disintegrated parthe rock

itself,
ticles of
and therefore contain-
ing small stones and sand, with which, of course,

is
associated
life.
humus derived from decaying

an
artificial
plant
This, then, suggests
158
GARDEN PLANNING
mixture for our rock garden In which similar

ingredients find place.
Such a mixture may-
be made as follows:
Good
friable
loam
Chips of sandstone Sand or road scrapings Leaf mould
... ...
. .
6 parts
I
part
2 parts
i
part
To
of
this
may be added
stable
a moderate proportion
well-decayed
manure.
is
The whole
will
should be well mixed and
then ready for use.

suit the
Although the above compost

greater
number
it is
of plants usually
rock garden,
for those
soil.
unsuitable for
grown in a bog plants and

a calcareous
which thrive best

the needs of these
in
To meet
it is
desirable to
some peat may be introduced for the benefit of the bog plants, and to add a limy constituent to the compost (lime
reserve a place where
or broken limestone) for those parts of the gar-
den
in
which
it is
intended to grow lime-loving

it
is
plants.
Beyond that
soil
hardly feasible or
worth while to go
in specializing the soil.
The prepared
clay,
must be
entirely free
from
and to ensure
this care should
be taken
to obtain the proper kind of loam.
THE ROCK GARDEN
59
Making
soil,
Having obtained the rocks and the and having selected a suitable site for the
its
rock garden, the forming of
contours
may
be undertaken.
pass through
last.
it,
In most cases a path will
but
this will
have to be made
age,
his
mind the importance of drainthe gardener must first decide whether

Bearing
in
rockwork
soil
shall
stand above the general

it.
surface or be partly sunk below
On heavy
on
a
soil,
clay
the
former
kind
plan
of
is
best;
gravel,
latter.
or
other
porous
the
sunk garden has the advantage

soil
is
that the excavated
useful for building

it
is
up the banks, provided,

described.
of course, that
suitable as an ingredient in the
compost just
to
The gardener may next proceed

barrow the
effect
is
mark out
the plan, by pegging or otherwise, and then

soil
into place.
Now
comes an imin
portant part of the operation, for the final

controlled
by the way
which he
arranges his heaps.
He
should endeavour to
avoid a formal or symmetrical distribution of

masses, which
ing
is
never seen in nature, by throwtheir shape
them up
as
if
and height were a
matter of chance.
i6o
GARDEN PLANNING
illustration
The
below gives a suggestion of

at.
what should be aimed
Not
until he has
com-
pleted the whole of the base-work should he add
the rocks, because as the work proceeds he may-
Fig. 40.
Earthwork
in the
rock garden
find
it
it
advisable to raise the ground here or

there to improve
its
lower
contours, which he
should view from various standpoints to
make
sure that he has obtained a good general effect.
That much accomplished, the gardener may commence to place his rocks by outlining with them the foot of each slopCjthereby at the same
time defining his path.
For
this part of the
work he should select rocks of various sizes, here and there introducing a bold mass to accentuate some angle, thereby avoiding the effect of an artificial edging. This edging must
be well done, with the rocks in close contact,
THE ROCK GARDEN

Otherwise
l6l
much
soil will
be subsequently washed
out on to the gravel; but no cementing

should be employed.
medium
Such crevices as remain may be well rammed with compost, and will
then offer temptation to the plants to thread
them with
rootlets,
by which the
soil will
be
sufficiently held in place.
In laying down the line of the path no attempt should be made to maintain equality of
width throughout.
better effect
is
On
the contrary, a
if
much
secured
the path varies in
width.
would even advocate the placing, at
one or more spots, of an island of rockwork in or near the centre of a specially contrived expansion of the path.
(See Figs. 105, 116, 129.)
Fig. 41.
Rockwork
section
The
soil
may
next be brought forward to

all
stand level with the rocks at next
points, thus
affording a basis on which to proceed with the

tier,
which, with those above

as
it,
must be
contrived
number
of
irregular pockets
l62
GARDEN PLANNING
levels, and not as a series which would be an obviously arrangement. Here again bold pieces
Standing at different
of parallel terraces,
artificial
of rock
must be used
at irregular intervals,
constituting miniature ramparts, over which some pretty trailing plant will later on make a
gay show, or which a delicate arenaria

clothe
may
with
its
velvet
greenery and tiny
white
stars.
Fig. 42.
Rocks
in relation to soil
The
rock masses should not be deeply buried.

is
A
its
good rule
that on the exposed side no rock

soil
should be deeper in the
than one fourth of

it
height, or sufficient to effectively anchor
in place.
The rock masses should not

piggledy, but there should be
relation
lie
higgledyof
some kind
is
amongst them, which
best secured
by giving all the flattened masses a slight tilt in some particular direction, to convey the
idea of a naturally inclined stratification.
THE ROCK GARDEN

Rocks
set
163
on end, sugarloaf fashion, are not
infrequently seen in the gardens of amateurs,
but they should be omitted by those

at the best effect.
If
who aim
some
height
is
desired at
given point, a couple of bold masses
may be
superimposed, led up to by other pieces, as
would occur
in nature.
Fig. 43.
Arrangement
of rock masses
The pockets
vary
lops.
soil,
or spaces of bare soil should
and be irregular in shape. They should never take the form of a series of scalin size,
Some
inclination
may
it
be allowed to the
but not much, or
will certainly travel
downward with each shower of rain. Rough steps may be introduced at

garden from the grass
plot.
a suitable
point or points, say to give access to the rock
These steps
may
be built of
filled
flat
soil,
rock pieces, their crevices being

in
with
which
rock-foils
and stone-
164
crops
GARDEN PLANNING
may
afterward be encouraged to grow.

it
is
If these
steps be introduced,
better to
carry
to
them between two adjacent mounds than make them ascend a conspicuous elevation.
will
A visit to a well-made rock garden in the wintertime

just
afford the gardener
much
practical
will
guidance in this kind of work.
He
see
how
far
it
is
possible to reahze a natural-
istic effect,
and
may
gain some wrinkles in rehis rocks.
gard to the disposition of
Although
recent
in the past the real rock

in
garden has
increased
been a negligible quantity

years
American gardens,
greatly
have seen
interest in their building.
The
fact that the
rock garden offers the gardener the chance of
growing a large collection of plants of small

size and low stature that would get lost in the open border, is to many people a sufficient justi-
fication for the introduction of this feature.
There charm is
out-crop.
are rock gardens in which the chief

their rocks, placed together so skil-
fully that
they might be mistaken for a natural
many hundreds
type of garden
Such gardens have cost their owners of dollars, but they are no betthan the more simple
I
ter for their purpose
am
describing.
The gardener
THE ROCK GARDEN

must try
work.
165
to avoid appearances which indicate

artificial
too obviously the
character of the
For instance, a promontory formed at a bend in the path should have a line more nearly approaching the first than the second
figure in the
accompanying
illustration.
Fig. 44.
Arrangements of
rock masses
An
artist
would
less
instinctively produce
good
contours; the
favoured individual must be
guided by these precepts, and by such examples

as he
may
find to imitate.
I
an inducement to that Nature is ever kind to her votaries, and when the garden has been planted she will do her best to conceal
offer it as
Though
do not
indifferent work, I
may remark
shortcomings.
For bog plants it is well to arrange one or more bays, in which the peat may lie in a level surface, as peat is unstable on a slope. An
i66
GARDEN PLANNING
angle in the general structure
may
be cut off
by a
line),
line of small
rock pieces (not a straight
and
in that
way a large pocket at the base-
laid
in which the peat may be on a not too porous subsoil. Bog plants demand a water-logged home. If water is
level
can be made,
-'M,-,:^
Fig. 45.
Arrangements of
is
peat in the rock garden
associated with the rock garden, the place for
bog
plants
at
its
edge, where
the peat
may
water.
be allowed in actual contact with the

are in place,
is
When all the rocks

when
critically
and the
result
viewed
satisfactory, the garfill
dener should proceed to
in all holes
and
THE ROCK GARDEN

crevices with his compost, using a thin
167
wooden
blade, or bricklayer's trowel, to probe them,
to ensure that the soil gets

levels.
down
to the lowest
After the
first
heavy shower of rain

has sunk
in.
he should go over the structure again, replenishing the soil
where
it
If of necessity
he has had to use brick waste
as a substitute for rocks, his task will not
have
little
been so easy, for

disguise their
it is
not possible to entirely
character.
Yet with
ingenuity he
may
secure a very passable result.
The
large masses will consist of
many
bricks
cemented together
ing a decided,
if
in the burning,
thus showtheir longer
rather
artificial, stratification.
These pieces he should place with

he
joints horizontal, or at such a slight tilt as
may
decide.
He may
their
place
them that
be tempted to so component bricks stand
on end, with a view to availing himself of the crannies between them, but that would be a bad arrangement, as will be understood from
the foregoing considerations.
of the
There is no need to outline the back margin bank with rocks. The soil there may
just run off into the level of the ground.
When the structure of soil and rock is finished
l68
GARDEN PLANNING
the gravel floor of the rock garden

in the
I
may
be laid
way
directed for path making.
need hardly warn the reader against the

I
use of water-worn rock pieces which have a
uniform pebble-like shape.
have seen them
used, but only with grotesque effect.
On
the
other hand, a few rounded pebbles introduced
along the margin of the rock structure are not out of place, suggesting, as they do, an old
water-course, and serving to retain
soil
washed
for
down from
Planting
No special directions are needed

way
as
the higher levels.
the practical work of putting the plants into the

soil.
It
should be done in the same
when
planting a bed or border, and at the same seasons according to locality.

struction
I
The mode
of conis
have described ensures that there

soil.
ample depth of
Discrimination should be used in selecting

the plants for special positions.
subjects
like
The
in
smaller
sedum, saxifrage, and sempercrannies,

of the rock
vivum will thrive when rooted and some on the porous surface
itself,
as witness the
few of these plants margin

of
common house-leek. may be established at

allowed
A
the
to
the
rockwork and
THE ROCK GARDEN

intrude upon the gravel within limits.
will soften
169
They
the hard line where rock and gravel
meet.
Plants of trailing habit should be put near the top of a miniature precipice, over which
they
will
hang
their flexible shoots
and
in
due
course paint
its
surface with brilliant colour.
Tall plants should go mostly to the higher

levels.
for
Give each plant elbow-room to allow growth and expansion, but plant fully, so
that
when
the plants are established there shall

soil visible.
be
little
bare
Chinks
in the vertical
surfaces should not be neglected
they
soil
will
carry their share of plant

to insert the roots and
life, if
care be taken
well in
ram the
contact with them.
Ferns
will thrive in similar
places, and, preferably, they should be located

in the
shady corners.
choice of plants
is
The
a vast one, but

it
it is
well for the novice to limit
at first to the
will find
hardy kinds, than which he

beautiful.
more none more

level,
At the back
of
all,
on the topmost
tall
small flowering deciduous and evergreen shrubs
may
be associated with
perennials like
starwort and snapdragon.
lyO
GARDEN PLANNING
Space and means

effort,
may forbid a very ambitious
and it may thus be necessary to confine the rockwork to a single bank against the boundary wall or fence. In that event it is well to clothe the artificial background with
ivy or other creepers.
The rock garden should not end

It
is
abruptly.
better to let
it
gradually merge into the
general surface of the ground, some detached

pieces of rock being placed
on the
level
beyond
the raised part of the rock garden, just as
we
should
find in nature.
Many
on the
alpine
level,
plants
if
will thrive perfectly well
they
are protected from the encroachment of coarser Thus these outlying rock pieces plants.
may
rocky
be enshrined in masses of phlox, aubridianthus, which, unconstrained by any
etia, or
limits, will
spread into wide cushions of
colour.
Learn to know your plants by sight and don't

label them.
The appearance
foliage,
is
of a labelled rock
garden
in the spring, before the plants
have put
forward
their
depressing,
and
reminiscent of the auction room.
Wall Gardens
Nature
has shown us
how
she can clothe an old wall
mth
her treasures,
THE ROCK GARDEN
I7I
and the plants thus naturally established often display a charming habit in adapting themselves Who has not seen a to their artificial home.
ruined wall topped with pinks, or with snap-
dragon, toadflax, and sedum, or hung with the
charming grey foHage and glistening white flowers

of cerastium?
To
imitate this
is
not
difficult,
but we require the right kind of wall; not the new, neatly pointed red brick affair, but a
thing of cracks, crevices, and crannies, such as
we
find enclosing some old country garden. Given this, the rest is easy. We have only to rub some fine soil into the chinks and to sow the seed of such plants as we desire, covering them
up with soil to prevent the birds abstracting them, and in due course we shall have our
colony of alpines.
If
no wall
in
exists,
and
as
doing so
much plant may be of concrete,

old bricks.
then we must build one, we may make provision for The wall life as we please.
rubble, rough stone, or
Of these, perhaps the best are the last three, though with bricks, unless ample spaces are left between them, there would be difficulty in finding sufficient lodgment for Stone and rubble, using irregular the plants.
172
GARDEN PLANNING
blocks, would give opportunity for earth pockets
There should and crevices of various sizes. be no pointing, and only so much mortar used Large as is necessary to secure stability. spaces may be filled with the compost recom-
mended for The smaller
the rock garden and then sown.

crevices
may
be
filled
with
soil
mixed with the seeds. be done in the autumn.
The sowing should
CHAPTER
XII
The Rose Garden

In a small garden there
roses;
is
nothing to be
freely
gained by providing a separate place for the
on the contrary, they may be

effect.
associated with the other flowers In bed
and
border with the best
Just why it became the practice In days gone by to give the roses a department to
not clear, though there seems some Idea that the rose standard did not harmonize with plants of bushy habit. In the present day no such consideration prevails, and gardeners do not hesitate to admit
themselves
is
to have been
the rose into every part of the garden.
We
is
cannot have too
many
roses,
and there
no position where they are out of
place.
walls
and fences deserve their share.

with
healthy
house walls are never so beautiful as

clothed
The The when
and
prolific
climbers.
In the
shrubbery they help to redeem the

173
174
GARDEN PLANNING
foliage.
masses of monotonous green

lawn, as standards or
pillars,
On
the
they add a welbeds and borders
come note
effect.
of colour,
and
in
they contribute their quota to the general
Even
as hedges, roses
and
for arches, pergolas,
have their use, and festoons no more

Pegged down,
a pergola, they
charming climbers are available.

or trained over the
beams of
make
I
glorious masses of flower and foliage. have written enough to show that the rose has no claim to be kept in a place by itself, yet this does not imply that the rose garden
is
necessarily a superfluity where ample space
exists.
Indeed, there
is
something extremely
It
attractive in a well-planned rose garden.

is
a practical token of
homage
to the queen
rose,
of flowers,
and
it
demonstrates that the
before
place
all
other flowers, can be grown in a
by
itself
without producing a monotonous

its
effect.
This follows from

foliage.
site
variety in form,
colour,
and sunny
should be selected for the rose
garden, and, following ancient usage,
we cannot
I
do better than lay
it
out formally.
its
am no
advocate of a formal garden in
severest
mood, but formality
is
not the product of
THE ROSE GARDEN

shape alone in the garden
elsewhere shown.
I
I75
details, as I
have
can conceive of beds and
borders of informal outline treated quite for-
mally
in the planting
and
accessories.
can-
not imagine any benefit to the roses from

planting
them anyhow.
We know
little
of
the rose in a state of nature, for our garden

roses are mostly a product of the nurseryman's
art.
They
shall
are perhaps the
most
artificial of
all flowers.
We
not therefore be In danger of outif
raging good taste
on formal lines, by which It on a symmetrical basis.

beds in grass, and there
in
we make our rose garden I mean if we plan

Is
The most common method

Is
to cut the rose
much
to be said
favour of grass as a setting for our roses.

it Is
In evolving a design
points
well to observe certain
now
to be mentioned.
not be elaborate in outline nor too small.
The beds should The
groups should show a geometrical relation be-
tween their component beds In the way I have advised for groups of flower beds generally.
The
space,
Illustration
(Fig.
46)
shows
typical
rose gardens as I
might plan them on a grass
and
It
should be noted that the outlying
176
GARDEN PLANNING
'Ml
THE ROSE GARDEN
77
borders give a sense of enclosure and sanctity

to
the
whole arrangement, which

pillars.
may
be
enhanced by planting their outer

standards or
lines
with
The
is
introduction of arches at suitable points
an excellent device for obtaining height.
The
necessary shelter in exposed situations
may
be contrived by the use of rose or sweet-
brier hedges, or of roses trained
upon
a skele-
ton fence.
It
is
not unusual to carry a path through

it
the rose garden, or to set

intersect at right angles.
where two paths
section
vase.
is
The point of intersometimes marked by a sundial or

a path or paths lead into the rose
When
garden, the beds
may
be separated by gravel,
In the
I
thereby excluding grass altogether.
Such gardens are shown

ing illustration (Fig. 47).
accompanybe made
have no quarrel
it
with that arrangement, and
may
dainty and trim by the use of neatly clipped
box edgings.
ful
One
loses,
however, the delightsupplies.
background an emerald turf

is
no reason why the rose garden should take a shape having equal dimensions both ways. It may be long and narrow, and I am not There
178
GARDEN PLANNING
is
sure that that
not the best form, especially

It
when space
is
restricted.
can be better
tedious
brought into harmony with the adjacent parts

of the garden.
As
a walk, too,
it is less
to traverse.
Roses make considerable demands upon the

|
n^ uM .iiiii
i i
in
111
1. 1
n hh
..
i
ii j
iii
ÛI
Fig. 48.
long rose garden
soil,
and
be
therefore
rose
beds
and
borders
first
should
stance,
deeply trenched in the

liberally
in-
and treated
is
with manure.
The
will
common
for roses
impression that clay
soil is essential
not altogether correct.
They
thrive in almost
any
soiL provided they are
well supplied with fertilizing matter.

soils
In light
the manure
we
give
soil,
them
is
not retained
so long as in
less culture,
heavy
they
the
may
suffer starvation.
this reason,
if
soil is
and thus, under careFor sandy and light, it is
well to
add a proportion of heavier material
THE ROSE GARDEN

to give
in
79
it tenacity and manuring to use cow manure. If the garden is made upon turf, then dig in the sods, and add any other decaying vegetable matter you may have available. On heavy land it may be necessary to drain the rose bed. This may be done by throwing
retentive quality,
and
out the
filling
soil to
a depth of three feet, adding
nine inches of rubble or brick rubbish, and then
up with
soil.
In such ease
it
is
well
to bring the level of the beds well

of the ground.
above that
of the
Thorough preparation
rose
bed
is
the surest
guarantee of future
success.
Planting should be done in the autumn,

preferably between mid-October and the end
of
if
November, though
the winter be open.
it
may
be done later
The
of
operation of plantmg cannot be too
carefully conducted.
Holes ^should
be
dug
ample
size,
with the bottom formed domearranging the roots.
shaped to
facilitate
These should be separated and distributed Fine radially over the bottom of the hole.
soil
should then be placed over the rootlets,

of the plant
moving the stem
up and down
i8o
to allow
it
GARDEN PLANNING
to penetrate
soil
among them.
The
remainder of the
firmly
may
left
then be added and
rammed down.
It should not
slightly
It
be heaped
depressed
round the stem, but
so as to facilitate watering.
would appear
little
that there
is
to be
gained by care in spreading the roots, experiments
showing that careless planting

is
equally favourable to
the plant.
Be that
is
as
it
no doubt that the care devoted to

arranging
the
roots
as
may, there
widely spread as possible

at
Fig.
the
foot
of
the
hole
49.-Piantig a rose
Tcuders exccllcnt servicc in
bebw"fhrg'"un^^Lr7rci"(B" Then prune at c.
anchoriug the plant to the

soil,
enabling
it
the better
If
to withstand the buffeting of the wind.

rain follows planting,
it
is
no
advisable to give
ing of
some water about a week after, and a mulchmanure may then be put around each
plant to afford protection from frost.
Roses must not be crowded together too

closely.
Standards should not be
less
than
THE ROSE GARDEN
l8l'
three feet apart, and bushes not less than one
and a
I
half to
two
feet.
It is
question whether
ever desirable to use

feet.
standards of greater height than three
The
lanky, bent specimens one sees occasion-
ally pointing
skyward are truly ugly, and have
no raison
single
d'etre.
Standards look better in groups than in

file,
though
the
latter
arrangement
it is
may sometimes
The
is
be desirable when
intended
to introduce a well-marked line.

disposition of the plants in a rose garden
largely a matter of taste.

fill,
to
With many beds we may devote each bed to several

same colour or kind, and thus get
roses of the
our colour effect in masses.
On
be
the other
hand, with a
or
less
elaborate garden, contrasting

colours
harmonizing
may
associated
together in the
same bed or
is
border.
The
range of colour in roses

except perhaps
so great
and so har-
monious that one can hardly make a mistake, in associating the magenta-
tinted varieties with reds
and pinks of purer

side
hue.
of
The
former, carrying as they do a note
blue, go better side
by
with
whites
and yellows.
The
presence
of
too large a
l82
GARDEN PLANNING
is
proportion of whites
to be
in
condemned, as
they
tell
more strongly
roses,
the picture than
coloured varieties.
China
foliage,
with their dwarf habit, beautiful

colours,
and
brilliant
should not be
in
overlooked.
They may be used
beds by
themselves, in the front part of the borders,

or between standards where the climate allows. Much more is to be said about roses, for which
there
is
not room here; and the reader specially
interested
had better turn to "The Amateur's
Book of Roses and
How to Grow Them.
CHAPTER
Water
in
XIII
the Garden
There is something so delightful in the living,

moving presence
that gardeners
to introduce
in a
it
of water in
the landscape
may
be excused their desire
into their flower ground.

size it
Yet
garden of limited
should be recog-
nized that the effect which appeals to us amidst
natural surroundings
is
practically unrealizable.
At
the same time the conditions
may be such
This applies
that water can be introduced without appearing

to be too
artificial
a feature.
bounded by a natural stream or through which such a stream passes. When the water has to be derived from the domestic supply and contained in artificial ponds it is a different matter. But even then
particularly to gardens
it
may
be possible to avoid offence provided

contents
himself
the
gardener
with
simple
arrangements.
Any
sense of artificiality that
may
arise
can be counteracted by the inherent

183
184
interest in
GARDEN PLANNING
luxuriant water growth and the blooms we get from such purely aquatic plants as water-lilies and lotus. It may, however, be stated at the outset that the making of a water garden is a simple
delightful
matter compared with its efficient maintenance. No gardener should lightly embark upon the task unless he is prepared to give unremitting
attention to
artificial
his
water plants and to their

This implies frequent chang-
homes.
ing of water
and cleansing of ponds. town and suburban gardens organic matter, dead leaves, and other undesirable things are wafted by the wind or fall upon the water surface, where they remain to decay
In
and
defile
the water.
is
When
a running stream
less
available, these
drawbacks operate
I
prejudicially,
though
garden
they are not altogether absent.

shall first consider the case of a
bounded by a stream at its far end. We may assume that the water is pure enough for our
purpose.
The
probability
is
that the gardener
would have no rights over the water, but also that no objection would exist to his diverting some of it through his garden. In such an
WATER
IN
THE GARDEN
85
event he might excavate a backwater, say with an extension in the form of a bay, as shown
in the illustration
(Fig. 50).
means he would obtain a piece of running water (A), and a piece (B) more or
this
less
By
stagnant,
but
not so stagnant as to
require
any
special
device for changing

it.
The depth need
not exceed eighteen

inches.
The
island
C
for
would be useful
treatment with
bold
plants,
waterside
and the marthe
of
gins
backFig. 50.
water
and pond could accommodate

others
of
less
water garden
sturdy growth.
Clear spaces
should be
left for access
to the water's edge and
to permit of the plants being seen.

collection of
small
dwarf hybrid nympheas
may
be
pond B and in the backwater, with which might be associated our common native pond lily. Other plants may be added If
established In the
86
GARDEN PLANNING
space permits, including such interesting subjects as the pickerel weed, the flowering rush,
and water buttercup. Typha and swamp mallow might be planted along the fence line
at B.
Irises will thrive at
the margin of the water,
as well
as
such favourite flowers as phlox,
trollius, spirea,
little
trouble in the
and a host of others. With very making and common-sense

this
management, a piece of water of

be made a source of perennial
is
kind could
interest.
When all
it
complete and the plants are established
would only remain to keep the entrances clear and to remove all rubbish which might find
access to the water.
No
deciduous trees or
shrubs should be placed near the water, for

reasons already explained.
A water system of this
kind might be wedded
to a rock garden with a good effect.
In excavating the water bed the sides should

slope gently to the edge, or trouble will ensue
by the banks breaking away and

water.
fouling the
This also ensures that the

for
is
soil is
water-
logged
some distance from the water's

therefore in a condition for sup-
edge, and
porting a colony of semi-aquatic plants.
WATER
IN
THE GARDEN
the
87
a
When
rather
stream intersects
effort
is
garden,
more ambitious
possible.
The
this like
lily
general treatment should be such as
to considerably
expand the water area, and

in
may
pond
be done by adopting an arrangement
that illustrated in Fig. 51,

is
which a
made
of
in
that
part
the
garden beyond the

brook, having inlet
and
outlet, thus secir-
curing a water
culation.
the near side.
Bays
Combe
a or
if
Fg-
should be formed on
munication across
the stream
may
of
by
means
simple
bridge,
si- A water garden

is
stepping-stones
the
water
the
shallow.
The gardener should

to give a
It should
built,
resist
temptation
"rustic" character to his bridge.
be a plain
befits
its
affair,
well
as
purpose,
and firmly and provided
with
hand-rail on either side.

in regard to
What
has
been written
making and plant-
88
GARDEN PLANNING
ing in the previous case applies to this one

also.
to engage the attention of
As water gardening is never likely more than a minority
of gardeners I need not multiply examples.
The
hints I have already given will prove suffi-
ciently instructive to those
who may wish
to
avail themselves of the possibilities of a stream

accessible
I shall
from the garden.
now
refer to a
type of water garden
which
is
frankly
artificial
and depends
for its
water supply on the kitchen tap or the pump.

This last condition demands that we should
study economy of water, and that can best
be done by devising what

culating system.
may
call
cir-
The
first
consideration will be the planning
of the ponds (for such they are)
and
in that
we
must be guided by the

If there
is
levels in
our garden and
our desires in the matter of water area.

a distinct slope in the garden
surface, so
much
the better;
it
will help us
to a simple arrangement for running off the
water, as must
to
be done from time to time
keep our ponds clean and their tenants
in healthy condition.
The waste
or overflow from the pond or
WATER
series of
IN
THE GARDEN
for,
89
ponds must be provided
and when
the garden slopes toward the house the most
convenient
way
is
to carry
'
it
into a gully in
'^- '^H ^:
'^î'-^ î''^'
Fig. 52.
Soak-away
drain
connection with the house drainage system.
When
best
the slope
is is
in a contrary direction the
expedient
to
make
"soak-away"
(Fig.
52).
filled
is
drain, as
shown
in the illustration in the soil
This
is
merely a pit sunk
and
with rubble, into which the overflow pipe

conducted.
The ponds must be constructed with an

impervious bottom, say by the use of cement
or concrete.
190
Fig.
GARDEN PLANNING
53
shows both the mode of forming
the bottom and of building up the sides, and

calls for little
by way
are
of description.
If
rock
or
rubble
sides
used,
as
in
D, they
floor
must be
built in cement, care being taken to
make
the joints watertight.
The
may
con-
then be made with

crete, faced
six or eight inches of
with cement.
The
surface should
not be finished to a dead
level,
but should h ave
Fig- S3-
Ponds
a slight fall toward the outlet, to facilitate
running off the water.

If the pond sides are built of cement, C must be followed, making the edges battered, and finishing them neatly at top with a rounded nosing, which can be done with a former of
WATER
wood
like
IN
THE GARDEN
Fresh
I9I
that
illustrated.
cement
of good quality should be used, tempered with
a third part of sharp sand. Pipes for inlets and outlets should be inserted
when
the sides of the pond are being made.

is
If
a single pond
the drain.
installed
it
will
only be necesits
sary to carry a waste-pipe from
bottom to
This should be done in a straight
line, if possible, to facilitate
unstopping in case
suitable
of
Is
obstruction.
The
not
most
less
piping
iron gas pipe of
internal diameter
than one and a half inches.

provided to close the
the pipe.
inlet,
A
and
plug must be
this
may be
bore of
a simple cone of wood
fitted to the
When two
system,
the
or
more ponds are made, they

connecting the
should be connected by piping into a single

waste-pipe
it.
one
the
nearest the drain to

If all
ponds stand
at the
same
level,
connecting pipes
may
enter and leave at the
bottom, but
if
the levels are stepped, as would
be the case on sloping ground, the overflow from each pond to the next lower one of the
series
must be placed
at the water-line, otherall
wise the water would
flow to the lowest
192
GARDEN PLANNING
This point
is
pond.
made
filling
clear in the dia-
grams
and B.
The
up and renewal
of the water
may
be done conveniently with
the garden hose.
Although
culating
described,
I have applied the term "cirsystem" to the arrangements just

it
should be understood that they
are not adapted to ensure a
constant movequite
in
ment
sary.
of
water,
which
will
is
unnecesly
perfectly
Water-lilies
thrive
stagnant water which has not been changed

for
months,
pleasant
but
to
in
it
is
neither
nor
to
allow
the
wholesome same water

indefinitely.
remain
off
the
ponds
of
Hence the
running
fresh.
usefulness
the foul
some means for water and refilling with
When
should
the gardener has done his work, he

the ponds,
fill
mark the
water-level,
and allow them to stand for a week, noting whether there is any leakage, which would
show
If all
itself
is
by a drop
in
the surface level.
satisfactory,
the
water
be
may
ready
be
for
run
off
and the ponds

of
will
planting.
The end
May
is
the best time for planting
WATER
the
IN
THE GARDEN
I93
hardy nympheas. compost consisting of:

Pond mud
The
soil
may
be
2 parts
I
i
. .
. .
Loam
Leaf-mould
Road
If the
it
scrapings
part part part
first
ingredient cannot be obtained
may be
omitted and double the quantities of

(broken
loam and leaf-mould substituted.
layer of drainage material
tile
or brick rubbish) should be spread
pond floor, be heaped to the water-level height at the points where the plants are to be placed. The water may then be admitted and
allowed
to
to
upon the on which the compost should
stand
for
couple
of
of
days
in
assume the
temperature
the atmosinserted
phere.
their
The
down
plants
may
then be
this
mounds, which by
time will have

the water-
settled
level.
considerably below
The water may be run
off
and renewed at
if
fortnightly intervals, or even less often
it
shows no tendency to become fouled.
Twice
a year the ponds must be thoroughly cleansed

to remove decayed vegetable matter, leaves
194
GARDEN PLANNING
and rubbish which are certain to accumulate

at the bottom.
The
in
introduction of animal
life
is
useful
restraining
undesirable vegetable growth,
Goldfish will do well even under somewhat unfavourable conditions of stagnation, and are equally useful for the
water-snails particularly.
purpose.
The
matter-of-fact gardener
all this
may
question
whether
think
worth while for the purpose of growing a few water plants. I

trouble
is
it is.
Indeed, the sight of only three or

water-lilies
is
four good, healthy

one's
in
flower
in
own garden
sufficiently
interesting
to constitute ample recompense for

initial
some small
trouble and outlay, and the enthusiastic
flower-lover will
not grudge the subsequent
labour of tending them.

I
lection of miniature
in
know one such person who grows a colnympheas in tubs sunk

limited his example
the ground with most gratifying success.
Where space is followed. The

and to
may be
best
plan
is
to
excavate a
deep hole, say twice the depth of the tub, fill the bottom with rubble, so.that when
is
the tub
bedded upon
it
the rim will stand
WATER
IN
THE GARDEN
I95
just above the level of the ground.

bit hole
centre-
must be made
fitted
tub and
a
bottom of the with a plug long enough to give

in the
good
hand-hold.
piece
of
perforated
its
zinc should be nailed over the hole at

side, to
under
prevent coarse debris running through
and choking the drainage material below. These expedients, simple enough to put into
practice, are all that
for
is
necessary to provide
an occasional change of water.
Fig. 54.
Tub
for
water plants'
The hard The

soil
circular outline of the tub
is
the
only objection
on the score of appearance.
best way to mask it is to pack some boggy around and between the tubs, and to grow
in
it
small water-side plants, which,
if
suitably
196
GARDEN PLANNING
hide
light
chosen, will spread over the rims and

their outline, without
unduly excluding
should be used.
and
air
from the water plants.
If possible rain-water
The
nympheas
water.
particularly are intolerant of hard
When introducing fresh water it should be run in slowly if it is sensibly colder than the atmosphere, otherwise the plants may be chilled
and checked
It in
is
in their
growth.
quite easy for the supply to dribble
from a hose, the waste plug being loosened water to escape slowly at the same time. Besides the nympheas there
to permit the foul
are
many
other interesting
plants
if
not as conspicu-
ously beautiful
in
that
may
be
grown
already
the water garden.
The
calla has
in
been mentioned, and is perhaps best kept the water garden. The lotus has a rich
tropical effect,
and
is
best planted in a tile consoil,
tainer as
its
roots spread through the
into
the surrounding ground.
The English arrowcalled "bull-
head
is
a bold, handsome, and desirable plant.
Typha
yellow
the reed-mace (commonly rush") estabhshed, and

is
easily
the native
will thrive
flag,
though only semiaquatic,
in shallow
water on a deep bed of
soil.
CHAPTER XIV
The Vegetable Garden The owner
of
a small plot,
who
loves his
flowers and values a completely artistic general

effect in his garden,
is
usually content to leave
vegetables
alone.
In
is
town
and
suburban
gardens
think he
well advised, because the
atmospheric conditions
of cleanliness
may
them
not be favourable
to the growth of culinary plants in that state
which
fits
for food.
But, leaving this consideration out of the

question,
it
is
doubtful whether the results
commensurate with the trouble involved, when you can buy good vegetables cheaply. I would say nothing to deter the enthusiast from taking up vegetable culture if his tastes
are
lie
in that direction.
It
is
as interesting to
some people to grow a cabbage themum.
as a chrysan-
There are gardens and gardens, and, given

a pure atmosphere and sufficient space, the
197
198
GARDEN PLANNING
vegetable garden
may
The
find its legitimate place
and usefulness.
the
general
reader
who
has studied
have applied to the designing of a flower garden will have noted

principles I
that
advocate placing the principal flower
borders near the north boundary, wherever
that
may
come, and that
gave good reasons
for running the
principal path alongside or
between them. Generally this path starts from the house and terminates somewhere at the remote end of the garden. If the vegetable ground Is to occupy its usual place at
the end of the plot, the main path
tinue
into
may
the
con-
and through
it.
On
other
Fig. 55.
Borders
through a vegetable garden
hand.
It
may be more
convenient to approach
the vegetable plot by an offshoot from the
THE VEGETABLE GARDEN

main path.
In either case
I
I99
advocate the use

referred.
of a device to
which
have already
This consists in continuing the flower borders
on both
sides of the
path through the vegein
table plot, in the
way shown
the illustration.
The
result
is
to extend the principal garden
vista In length, thus
increasing the sense of

screen,
space, and, at the
same time, to
more
or
less,
the part devoted to vegetables.

true that these borders absorb a certain
of space, but that
It
is
amount
must be allowed
for
in fixing the
dimensions of the vegetable plot.
To complete the scheme it only remains to add a transverse hedge or other barrier at the near end of the vegetable plot and the thing is done. These supplementary borders, if
preferred,
may
be reserved for flowers intended
and some part for raising seedlings, striking cuttings, and other utilitarian purposes. I have in mind a charming suburban garden
for cutting,
arranged in this way, in which the kitchen

plot with
its
borders of bold perennials, backed
by
espaliers,
and edged with herbs,

are
is
not the
least interesting part of the garden.
But there
dener
many
other touches the gar-
may
give to his vegetable ground to
200
bring
it
GARDEN PLANNING
into
harmony with the garden
as a
whole.
bower-like structure can be
made
to support a colony of scarlet runners, whose

coral flowers will give a piquant note of colour
to an uninteresting corner, the while
it
provides
bold,
the gardener with succulent food.
The
handsome
foliage
of
the
rhubarb,
and the
rambling growth of the vegetable marrow are
good to look upon, and did they not contribute to our table they would assuredly be grown
for
their
beauty alone.
in
And what
is
more
?
graceful than the fairy foliage of the asparagus
Bearing these points

gardener
to dispose
it
mind, therefore, the

he
I
may make
them
picturesque capital out

if is
of his kitchen garden tenants

to advantage.
careful
do not wish to be understood, however, that any steps

in that direction are to
taken
to the
be in opposition
common-sense
principles of vegetable
culture.
The gardener with
a heart attuned to vege-
tables will find places for a few fruit trees,
which are always useful in the garden picture. The abundant blossom of his cherry, apple,
and plum
year
trees
is
a valuable asset at a time of
when
flowers are scarce,
when
the borders
20I
have scarcely awakened from their winter What is more beautiful than a spray sleep.
of
rose-flecked
apple
blossom
arching
the
path, or, later, the sun-kissed fruit showing

its
And
trees
ruddy spheres amidst the darkening foliage? if the flower garden is to invade the
vegetable plot,
why
not the converse?
Fruit
upon the
grass plot
have just
as
much
value as the che tnut or laburnum, both for

flower and shade, and against a north wall
they will cover
much
uninteresting brick and
mortar, and yield their crop without detracting
from the usefulness of the border

growing.
for flower-
Even the boundary hedge between flower and vegetable plot may be made of espaliers,
or such easily trained fruit bushes as loganberry, wine-berry,
and blackberry.
no
diffi-
The gardener
culty
in
is
of resource will find
putting
these
hints
into
practice.
There
nothing new in them.
The
associa-
tion of flowers
and vegetables
in the kitchen
garden was
common
in the walled-in gardens
of a century ago;
but the practice was not
introduced with quite the same objects as

those here detailed, because in those days the
202
GARDEN PLANNING
itself,
vegetable ground was a thing by
and
no one thought of blending

ground.
it
with the flower
Apart, however, from this question of har-
monizing the two main departments of the garden, I would advance the plea for neatness,
order,
and picturesque
effect in the
kitchen
by-
garden.
The
soil
should be constrained
edgings to keep
it off
the paths, and for this
purpose there
is
possibly no better material

laid
than ordinary builder's bricks

plants will
on edge.
Just inside the brick line a row of parsley
make
a fresh, massy, green band,
and elsewhere the other herbs may help to outline the garden divisions and give finish to the beds; at the same time all will be conveniently accessible.
Let us now look into the more practical

details
of the
kitchen garden design.

to
It
is
good
as
practice
subdivide
the
plots
into
narrow paths between, Such beds may have dimensions determined by the space available
separate
beds
in
with
shown
Fig.
55.
and by the owner's intentions

crops to be grown.
as regards the
In a small vegetable ground annexed to a

garden of the
size
2O3
under consideration, a width most cases would be a good dimension to adopt, the length of the bed running transversely and being determined by the width of the ground from path to
of twelve feet in
boundary fence. The transverse paths need not be more than eighteen inches wide, and may be of cinder, if no better material is available. The object is to give easy access to the bed and to permit the use of the barrow without having to run it over loose soil, and thus to lighten
labour.
At the same
time, this orderly subdivision

its
of the ground improves
appearance, giving
a business-like aspect to the garden tating systematic cropping.
and
facili-
A
and
space
off,
should
for
be
reserved,
preferably
screened
for
the deposition of rubbish,
the storage of manure, flower-pots, and other accessories which careless gardeners are too prone to leave about in odd
stakes,
places.
The box edgings one finds in old gardens "as prim and square-cut as a Puritan pastor" are charming to look at, but they are
charged, and probably rightly so, with harbour-
204
GARDEN PLANNING

ing snails
205
and other animals which prey upon

Still I
our culinary plants.
am
not sure that
would not put up with the havoc of these marauders to enjoy the solid green outlines and the air of old-world methods these edgings suggest.
There are other modes of associating the

vegetable
garden
with
is
the
flower
ground.
When
its
the whole plot

it
wide in relation to
length,
may
be convenient to reserve
a strip of ground along one or both sides for
kitchen garden purposes, and in that event the
treatment
may
be based upon the design here

being to retain
illustrated, the object, as before,
a certain decorative quality without detriment

to practical requirements.
this
If
is
made
sufficiently clear
The method of doing by the diagram.

is
space and other conditions suit, there

off
no objection to cutting
the
flower
the kitchen from
garden entirely by a separating

gained by blending the
vista so obtained,
is
hedge; because in the case under consideration

there would be
little
two, since the additional
being in a transverse direction,

tively short.
compara-
In
selecting
the site for the
kitchen garden the question of aspect must
not be overlooked, particularly as
it
affects
206
GARDEN PLANNING
In
that part of the flower garden adjacent.
the case just considered the hedge shadow
must be reckoned with, and
for that reason
the north side of a garden having an east or
west aspect would be the best position for

the kitchen garden, other things being favour-
With a north or south aspect the point able. would not arise.
In gardens of
irregular
shape
it
is
some-
times possible to cut
off a triangular or
awkplot,
rest.
wardly shaped piece for the vegetable form to the thereby giving better
Examples
of this
mode
of treatment will be
found in the plans which follow.

In the actual making of the ground the
gardener must follow the directions already given for trenching and manuring.
If
the garden
is
of
any considerable
It
size
a tool shed, which might be used
also as a
potting-shed,
is
a great convenience.
may
be a very simple structure; but it is well not to disfigure it with corrugated iron or other unsightly material. A thatched roof of straw
or reeds would convert
it
into an almost picis
turesque feature, and there
no reason why
it
should not support a graceful flowering climber.
CHAPTER XV
Glass
At the
risk of creating consternation in the
minds of those enthusiasts who adore their little glass houses, I must say that I cannot
reconcile
beautiful.
the
greenhouse
with
the
garden
My
remark, of course, applies only
to the small garden, in
which
have never seen

Its
it;
such a structure that was not an eyesore.

white
paint
alter.
alone
condemns
so
its
but
that
we can
Not
rigid,
spidery lines
and glinting glass panes. Yet I admit its utility, and I can realize the pleasures that come to the man who carefully tends its crowd
of occupants.
itself.
My
quarrel
is
with the thing
If I
were advising the owner of a small

I
garden plot on the question of installing a

greenhouse,
should say "Don't," because
know
that
it is
possible to have a garden gay
with interesting flowers from

ber without glass.
207
March
to
Novem-
208
GARDEN PLANNING
the other hand,
in
if
On
to
the gardener desired
chrysanthemums, or some other flower or flowers for which a greenhouse is a necessity, I would concede the point, respecialize
garding
it
as a
compromise; but
should not
expect him to achieve a very notable result

in the
I
garden picture.
would therefore ask the would-be gardener to consider whether he really wants a greenhouse, and if he decides in the affirmative, I would tender him such advice as the following:
1.
If possible
i.e., if
the aspect
is
suitable
put the greenhouse against one of the house

walls,
ture,
2.
where it and thus

that
is
will
lose
merge into the main some of its identity.

it
struc-
If
unrealizable, place
will
it
be possible to screen
it where it from view, so that
does not become a conspicuous object in
the vista as seen from the house.

3.
Select a simple
and unpretentious design,
preferably a "lean-to" or "three-quarter-span"

pattern,
or wall.
and put it against a boundary fence These patterns are infinitely pref-
erable to the high-pitched, ridge-roofed, doU's-
house pavilions designed to evoke the admiration of the uninitiated.
GLASS
209
4. Paint the outside woodwork a pleasant shade of green, not grass colour nor eau-de-nil,
but something
in
between.
By
observing these hints he
may
succeed
in taking the sting
out of
his glass box.
The
gardeners
who
paint their greenhouses white,
picked out with lines of peacock blue, hardly

realize
the
to
crime
the
they
commit.
They
are
blinded
inconsistencies
itself,
by the glpry
of the structure
and think not of it as For the same reason they give it a place of honour in the centre of the garden's width, and contrive that all roads
an element in the picture.
shall lead to
it.
The humble garden frame

It sits
is
another matter.
snugly on the ground, and does not take

Its usefulness
is
on
its
airs.
no one can deny, and
place
If,
in the vegetable plot.

all,
in spite of
the gardener decides to

in
some part of his capital then let him beware of the cheap,
invest
"glass,"
jerry-built,
stock
houses which
are
occasionally
are not
offered
all
to a confiding public.
They
bad,
but they
all
have the same family likeness
on
paper, and the inexperienced buyer is tempted to buy the largest he can get for the
2IO
GARDEN PLANNING
is
sum he
prepared to spend, or the cheapest for
a given size.
and is an framed of wood of small scantling, or of unsound quality, the decay comes sooner and proceeds more rapidly. Joints give and parts warp out of
structure,
glass,
The greenhouse at its best if we neglect the
is
but a skeleton
If
easy prey to weather influence.
"and then the deluge" in a literal Once a house becomes leaky it is almost hopeless to attempt to make it sound again.
shape,
sense.
Better, therefore, to do without than to install

a cheap affair that will
do duty only
is
for a
few
seasons.
The
buy.
best guarantee of quality
the reputation of the firm from
price and which you
The term "conservatory"

to the house.
It has the
is
generally applied
to a glass house forming a permanent annex
advantage over an
unwarmed detached greenhouse of borrowing warmth from the house in winter, and is useful
fully kept
from frost. If tasteand of sufficient size, it forms an exOne not cellent approach to the garden. infrequently finds one on the north side of
for protecting pot plants
GLASS
the house, where
it
211
gets no sun,
and
Is,
therefore,
only fitted for sheltering a few ferns.

Builders Indulge In flights of fancy In connection with the conservatory, In the form of
chevaux-de-frise,
ornamental
finlals,
and
col-
oured glass panes.

tractions (?) to
of
taste,
sell
They hope by
or let the house.
will
these at-
The man
structure
however,
prefer the
to be a piece of good plain
with clear
tracting
glass.
know
of
woodwork glazed nothing more disbeams

it
It
than to enter a conservatory into

Is
which the sun
casting contrasting
of
blue and yellow light indifferently upon flowers
and
foliage.
If for
purposes of privacy
Is
desirable that the glass be translucent
Is
better to use white prismatic or ground glass.
Leaded
glass
Is
In
which the prevailing
tint
Is
a pale green
not objectionable.
the
The conwater
servatory floor should be tiled and sloped to

a gutter to carry to outside the
spilled in spraying the plants.
heating system
it is
is
essential,
and
in this con-
nection
well to take and abide
by the expert
advice of the established greenhouse builders.
Much
benefit will be had from a perusal of the book "Gardening Under Glass."
CHAPTER XVI
Fences and Hedges
I
have already pointed out how
insistently
the boundaries of a small garden declare them-
Whichever way we turn the vista is by a wall or fence, and whatever expedients weadoptto render these artificialfrontiers whether by growing greenery inconspicuous over them or trees and shrubs against them we cannot entirely keep them out of sight. I have shown, however, that by adopting a rectilinear treatment they can be made to harmonize with the garden lines. But that will not
selves.
closed
much if the fence itself is an eyesore. The suburban gardener very often has to take things as he finds them, but he who builds his house has the matter in his own hands,
help us
and
for
his
guidance, therefore,
may
offer
some suggestions on the subject of fencing. I must make a passing reference to walls. All walls are much alike, but it is worth while to
FENCES AND HEDGES
213
make
the wall high enough to permit of grow-
ing vines
upon
it
when
it
receives full sun.
height of six feet in most cases would be

cient for the purpose.
suflfi-
As regards the fence there

ations
appearance
are
two
consider-
and
durability.
The
former implies both design and surface, the

latter, material.
Of the woods
of its long
life
available,
oak
is
unquestion-
ably the best for a fence, not only on account
under
its
all
conditions of weather,
It
but on the score of appearance.

not be painted or
destroyed.
should
charm
of colour will be
Who
has not seen and admired
the pearly grays and opalescent tints of an
ancient park fence, and noted

it
how admirably
harmonized with the natural growth at its foot? I know of nothing which better accords with flower and foliage than the weathered surface of an old oak fence.
are cleft, so as to
If
the pales
show the natural figure of the wood, the efi"ect will be better and the life Under ordinary circumof the fence longer.
stances a height of five feet
is
suflicient,
but
with open country around and no likelihood

of
intruders
less
height
may
be
desirable,
214
GARDEN PLANNING
FENCES AND HEDGES

particularly
if
215
there
is
an attractive landscape
of
beyond.
The
character
the
immediate
environment should determine both the height of the fence and its design, which may be open
or closed, or a combination of both.
The
construction should be simple, because

is
elaborate fencework
likely to
usurp attention
and to detract from the glory of the flower

ground.
The
practice of allowing the posts to stand

line of the fence,
above the top

skyline,
is
breaking the
a good one.
The
designs illustrated should be sufficient
guide as to the type of fence best suited to a

small garden. The closed pattern has sawn oak posts and arris rails and cleft pales. If shaped at the top between the posts, as shown, its appearance is improved.
The "windowed"
of the park fence,
pattern
is
an adaptation
heads to
top
rail.
by the addition of raised the posts and a more substantial The latter should be "weathered"
is
to throw off the rain.
The
half-open fence with lattice top
just
the thing on which to train creepers.
Paled fences should always have a pHnth
2l6
GARDEN PLANNING
board to protect the lower end of the pales
from moisture, and to act as a barrier against

burrowing animals.
Oak
fences should be put together with cop-
per or galvanized nails; ordinary iron nails
cause unsightly inky stains.

If the
gardener cannot afford the cost of oak,

his
he must use pine or other boarding for

pales,
but certainly he should have oak posts

he stops the pales just clear of the
and pUnth boards, though he may omit the

latter
if
ground.
The
pales will need painting either

(a
with a tar solution

tar,
preparation of Stockholm
oil
not coal tar) or with good

is
paint.
is
If oil paint
used, the colour
important.
It
is
difficult to select a tint
which harmonizes
well
with flowers and

is
best
foliage. Perhaps the subdued green of a sagey tint. One

is
disadvantage of painted fences
that the paint
has to be renewed from time to time, and that

Involves the temporary removal of creepers
and other plants which may have been trained

over them.
Wire fences are not desirable

purpose, but are permissible
to
for a
permanent
wished
when
It is
mark
the garden boundaries whilst a hedge
FENCES AND HEDGES

is
217
coming to maturity.
At the
points where
the wires start and end the posts should be

stout and well strutted, to enable sufficient
tension to be put on the wire to
make
it
taut.
The intermediate
maining upright.
posts
may
be
lighter,
but
re-
should be firmly planted to ensure
their
Barbed wire is an invention of the enemy and should never be admitted into the garden.
Fig. 58.
Stretching
wire fencing
The ordinary
(No. 8 gauge)
galvanized iron telegraph wire

is
the most suitable.
It
may
be
attached to the stretching post by "screweyes," which should be galvanized, or
by the
2l8
GARDEN PLANNING
it
simple expedient of passing
through holes
made with
a knot
in
a carpenter's
gimlet and twisting
the protruding end.

in
is
This should
be
done
stretching
manner illustrated. The best managed with a block and

the
Fig. 59-
Open
wooden fencing
tackle,
but
if
the gardener cannot
the use of this appliance, he
command may make shift
with an extemporized lever in the manner
shown.
When
the wire
is
taut, the
end should be
FENCES AND HEDGES
219
knocked up with a hammer close to the hole and turned two or three times round a stout
nail.
out of
is
Kinks and bends in the wire may be rubbed it with the hammer handle whilst it
under tension, before the
final tightening.
good types of open fence are shown in the next illustration, and they call for no
special
Two
description.
In
the
all-rail
pattern
the post heads are

on,
their purpose
made
separately and nailed
being to protect the end
grain of the post from the weather.
Temporary
fences
may
be made of rough
unbarked cedar or other timber that may be readily and cheaply procurable. The lattice
or "rustic" fence
is
short-lived,
and
in long
lengths
Its
its
diagonal
is
pattern
is
monotonous.
appearance
much improved by adding

down.
is
a top rail of halved timber flat side
better type
that next illustrated, the
posts being of unbarked cedar, and the side
and top
rails
of the
same halved.
Ordinary
the
iron cut nails
may
be used with advantage,
as their "rusting-in"
better.
makes them hold
all
In setting out a fence care should be taken
220
GARDEN PLANNING
to keep a straight line from point to point,
by using
a stretched cord as a guide for fixing
the posts.
The
tops of the posts should be
Fig. 60.
Larch
fencing
adjusted in line by sighting, two

fixed as levels to
T pieces being
at each end
work from, one
of
the stretch.
The spacing
of the posts will
depend upon the design and character of the fence and the length of timber purchased for the rails, but ten feet is the maximum advisable,
and less is better. Of iron fencing there are patterns for purposes, and I need not speak of them.
Trellis
all
Trellis naturally falls into this sec-
tion,
and some words
of guidance in its proper
Ready-made trellis is so make it at home when the ordinary diamond pattern is wanted.
use
may
be useful.
it
cheap that
does not pay to
FENCES AND HEDGES

In erecting a screen of
trellis
221
a well-framed
is
support should be provided, as there

little
very
strength or stiffness in the
trellis itself.
The
rule should be to support all the edges
by allowing them to butt against the centre of the frame, securing them by fillets nailed
thereto.
The
top
is
practice of leaving a
slovenly,
raw edge at the and leads to the premature

All trellises
decay of the
colour,
trellis.
should be
oil
painted with two or three coats of good

well
worked
into the
angles at the
Fig. 6r.
Construction
is
of trellis screen
crossings, for
its
it
there that the rain finds
way
in
and
starts the process of decay.
222
GARDEN PLANNING
to be so
it
is
The diagonal pattern has come
comit
mon
that most gardeners accept
without
used
question, but where
much
treUis
looks better arranged with the laths vertical
and horizontal.
If
the gardener
is
handy with
his tools,
and
blessed with sufficient leisure, he
may
try his
hand on "woven trellis," using cleft oak laths and working on the plan illustrated in Fig. 57. He must design his squares of sufficient size
to admit of bending the laths without difficulty,
and he should pin them at their crossings with oak pegs. A trellis of this kind will not require to be painted, and it has a character of its own which raises it far above the machine-
made
I
article.
need hardly add that the interlacing
may
the
be omitted
and the
laths joined
up
in
ordinary way, using either oak pegs or galvanized nails.
Hedges
We
may
consider hedges as
serve to
liv-
ing fences.
They not only
mark
the
garden boundary and the subdivisions of the

garden, but they materially assist us in the
garden picture.
know
of
no better back-
ground
for a
wide herbaceous border than a
FENCES AND HEDGES

well-grown hedge, provided no wall
is
223
available.
Hedges, however, occupy more width than

fences,
and we must allow
for this in our plan-
ning.
Also there must be allowance for lateral
growth beyond the width to which we intend to train the hedge, because we cannot trim at frequent intervals. Also something additional should be allowed to keep the flowers
outside the radius of the roots of the hedge

plants.
As wind-screens hedges
are superior to fences

filter
because they allow air to

over them.
through, and
thus reduce the velocity of that which passes
Of hedge plants commonly

beats privet.
in use nothing
it
is
When
properly cared for

it
very effective as a screen, and
grows rapidly.
Moreover,
soil,
it
thrives in almost every kind of

alike in shade or sunshine,
suffer
and
is
happy
and does not ordinarily

winds.
from cold or rough
Thorn
ing to
is
of less
rapid
a thoroughly
its
business-like
spines, cattle
it.
growth but makes hedge, and, owrarely
break through
first
If
well
trained
full
attempt to from the
so as to
make the bottom
and
close,
224
it will
GARDEN PLANNING
exclude even the "harmless
(?),
neces-
sary cat."
Of evergreens, hemlock, box and

are
all
arbor-vitse
admirable, but slow in growth.
The
hardy orange {Citrus trifoliata) makes a dense, impenetrable hedge and is evergreen in the
South but sheds
its
leaves in the North.
There
is
no reason
why we
the
should not
make
Lilac,
hedges of
many
of
beautiful
flowering
shrubs, save only the question of cost.

ribes, deutzia,
lar,
snowberry, philadelphus, medflowering quince,

rose,
diervilla,
sweet-
brier,
blackthorn, viburnum, elder, berberis,
althea,
and spirea are
all
suitable
and
attracsoils in
tive subjects,
and
in the light,
warm
fuchsia and hydrangea may be added to the list. I see no objection to a mixed hedge, in which several of the above subjects
the South
are
associated
together.
There are pictur-
esque possibilities in
such a hedge that are
worth exploiting.
Sweetbrier
makes
its
charming hedge and

it is
stands exposure well, but

gardens, where
unsuited to town
viscous foliage would collect
and
retain the sooty constituents of the
atmos-
phere.
In planting a hedge the ground should
FENCES AND HEDGES

be trenched
225
and manured and the plants The spacing will vary with the subject, and the nurseryman will always advise on this point. The training of a hedge
carefully lined up.
involves
periodical
first
trim-
ming.
In the
instance
this should
be directed to
encouraging
the lower
never
growth, without which the
be an and might develop into an eyesore, ^'s- 62. Sections of hedge The best method is to trim to a wedge shape, tapering from bottom to top on both sides equally, and to leave the top quite sharp. The width at bottom, for a hedge which is
efficient barrier,
hedge can
eventually to be restricted to five feet in height,
need not exceed two

the prescribed height.
Fig. 62
feet.
The
tops of the
plants should not be touched until they reach
shows the section to be worked to
in the first instance.

filled
When
the bottom
is
well
in
with growth, and the plants have
obtained the
maximum height, or have sprung above it, the top may be cut to a uniform height, and dressed flat as in Fig. 62 B, or rounded
226
if
GARDEN PLANNING
Subsequently the sides
preferred.
may
be
trimmed
break
vertically.
it
is
In long lines of hedging

the
desirable to
top
line
plants at intervals
by allowing the hedge to grow above the general
Fig. 63.
Hedge
tops
level,
as
trimming them into some definite form, shown in the illustration below. Gaps in the hedge, to accommodate throughpaths, may be bridged over by training the
adjacent plants into an arch, for which a tem-
porary support would be required.
The gardener should never
forget that his
hedge makes considerable demands on the soil, and he must therefore not expect that flowers will thrive in close proximity to it, wherefore he should allow sufficient width
in all borders
which
Box Edgings
These
skirt a line of hedging.
are miniature hedges.
The
objection that they encourage and harbour
FENCES AND HEDGES

insect pests
227
may
will
be dismissed by the practical

avail
man, who
himself of the fact to
search out the intruders and destroy them.
The
or
best
dwarf form
is
Buxus sempervirens
be planted in April
tri-
var. suffruticosa.
It should
May.
narrow, clean-cut trench of
angular section should be got out, and the box

plants inserted in a close line, the soil being
drawn up against them with a board held

the right hand, whilst the
the plants in
line.
in
left
forearm holds
to
Box edging should not be allowed

to a greater height than six Inches,
grow
and the
clipping should be done with
care so as
to
preserve
the
height uniform, and to maintain a clean line, whether

is
it Y\g. 64.
Planting
edging
box
straight
or
for
curved.
The
is
best
time
cHppIng
first
at
the
end
of
May
or during the
week
in June.
The best shape in cross-section is squaretopped with battered or vertical sides, though If it pleases the eye of the gardener the top
angles
may
be rounded.
Ivy Edgings
These have a bold, handsome
appearance, but are not suitable for gardens
228
GARDEN PLANNING
and
in
of restricted size,
town gardens they
are
apt to become coated with soot, nor are they

reliable in the
North
as
they winter-kill. Where
space admits, however, and the temperature

is safe,
excellent effects
is
may
be obtained with
ivy.
It
only necessary to insert the plants

soil,
and to peg them down to the
which
in
time they will cover with abundant growth. An annual clipping in April or May will soon
produce a neat
Other Edgings
for edgings,
effect.
Many other plants are
in use
such as the ground myrtle, euonymus, and pachysandra, etc., but as they present;
no special difficulty in management, and have no special features to commend them, I need only refer to them by name, as a reminder to
the gardener
who
is
casting about for some-
thing different.
The Verge
This
To
makes an admirable edgit is
ing where space permits, and where
not
subject to unfavourable conditions, such as the

drip of trees.
ensure the best effect
it
should be trimmed with mathematical accuracy.
As the mowing and trimming involve considerable labour

it will
not
commend
itself
to the
gardener of limited
leisure.
CHAPTER XVII
Tile
and Other Artificial Edgings

a wider application than the
These nave
living plant edgings just noticed,

a necessity in a well-kept garden.
and they are
When
turf
and
tutes
soil
or turf and gravel
come
into juxta-
position the clean-cut edge of the turf consti-
good enough edging.
The
case
is
different
qualities
where which
soil
and gravel meet.

distinguish
The
good
resis-
should
edging are durability (both as regards

tance
to
weather
influence
and
it
accidental
to be laid
fracture); flexibility, to permit

in a
it
good curve
Edgings
if
necessary; stability, to enable
to keep in place; and, lastly, moderate cost.

Tile
These
special
may
be just plain
tiles
roofing tiles,
or
edging
with a
"fancy" margin, of which many patterns, good, bad, and indifi'erent, are offered for sale. Of the former I have little to say beyond pointing out that they are usually too thin to resist
229
230
GARDEN PLANNING
the wear and tear of every-day usage, and the
porous kinds are subject to fracture by

Special edging tiles are
frost.
made
of the following
materials:
Porous brickware
(red).
Hard
brickware
(red).
Stoneware (brown).
Blue brickware (slaty blue).
is undesirable on account of its and liability to fracture by frost, and the last on account of its unpleasant colour, though it has the advantage of toughness and Between the other two materials strength. there is little to choose. Both are durable and unobjectionable in colour, and the gardener
The
first
brittleness
may
decide as he thinks best.
If price is
consideration, he would find the hard brick-
ware the
least expensive,
though prices
may
vary according to
Fig.
a
ing
tile
district.
it
When
spect,
comes to selecting the

best
confine
pattern he cannot be too circum-
and he had
tile
65. Edg-
himself to simple designs.
In
is
my
opinion the
it
is
edging
not a
feature
desirable
to
emphasize
with
ARTIFICIAL EDGINGS
decoration.
offensive.
23
is
The plain
is
scallop edge
the least
(See Fig. 65.)
Even that
apt to suffer in use, and
will
show
unpleasant gaps where some of the projections
have been broken

spade.
off
by
a chance blow of the
Perhaps the strongest pattern

jection
is
the so-called
is
"cable" design, but to that there

that
it
is
the obof
a
it
barefaced
imitation
something which
never quite succeeds in
simulating, and which in the reality would be
a most inappropriate thing as a permanent

feature in the garden.
are unsightly
Moreover, these
tile is
tiles
when
laid in curves.
Generally speaking, the edging
some-
thing one had better do without, and as a

substitute for
it
greater
substance,
which has the advantage of durability, and stability,

cost, I
combined with lower

Brick Edgings
brick,
as
I
The
commend:
builder's red
common
is
have already mentioned, makes

capable of being
flat,
its
an excellent edging, and

used in various ways.
face level with the gravel,
it
Laid
top sur-
becomes the margin of the path and at the same time an efficient
barrier to the soil of the border.
Used
in this
232
GARDEN PLANNING
it
way
may
be associated with a box edging, as
indicated in the illustration (A).
Otherwise
it
may
be set on edge to stand about half

soil as in
its
width above the gravel and

is little
to choose between these
using
to
in
Another and less it in the form of a concealed edging the way shown at C. This makes a very neat
it.
B. There two modes of familiar method is
employ
Fig. 66.
Brick
edgings
When
and unobtrusive edging, not easily damaged. carried round curves it should it is
line,
be laid endwise to the This form of edging

is
using half-bricks.
also useful as a division as

it
between turf and gravel,

need for much labour
edge, and at the
serves the original line.
in
precludes the
trimming the turf
same time absolutely pre-
In purchasing bricks for edgings the gardener

should see that he gets hard, well-burnt ones,
either
wire-cut or pressed.
Moulded
bricks
ARTIFICIAL EDGINGS
233
have a hollow on one

unsuitable.
side,
which makes them

is
There
if
is,
however, a kind of brick which
preferable to the ordinary rectangular brick,

cost
is
not an important consideration.

brick.
It
is
the "plinth"
It has
one of
its
edges
bevelled, as
illustration,
shown in the and makes

67.-The
quite
an ideal edging.
averages about
Fig.
Its price
plinth
brkk
fifteen
dollars
thouit
^'^^'"^
sand, which brings
materially higher in cost
than the
common
tile.
brick,
but
still
cheaper than
the edging
Stone Edgings
plentiful
In
districts
where stone
is
and cheap, it edging, and it has the
may
be used as an
It
advantage of being
obtainable in long lengths.
may
also be
worked
it
in
any section
desired, or
we may
use
roughly dressed.
The
illustration
on page
234 indicates some simple and suitable sections. Sometimes the gardener is in a position to buy cheaply old stone paving, which may be
adapted as an edging with good
effect.
Slate has been suggested for edgings,
and
in
234
districts
GARDEN PLANNING
where
it is
cheap,
it is
if
used in pieces at
efficient;
least
one inch thick,

colour
is
durable and
but
its
unpleasing, and I cannot com-
mend
it
for the flower
garden on that account.

it is
For the vegetable ground
quite admirable.
Fig. 68.
Stone edgings
(sections)
The least expensive kind of common flint, and on the score

and
stability
it
edging
is
the
of appearance
It
leaves
little
to be desired.
flints
should be bedded deeply, and the
should
be large ones.
districts of
The
practice
flint
common
in
some
whitening
edgings gives them
too
much prominence, and on

is
that account I
do not favour it. When a bed or border

of flints or brickbats.
to be raised above
the general level the edging
may
be built up
There is no special virtue in the flint, apart from its abundance and ubiquity. In districts where other natural stone is common it may be used in rough pieces in the same way as flints,
with equally good
effect.
ARTIFICIAL EDGINGS
235
artificial
Wood Edgings
edging that
The
last
is
form of
I shall
notice
the board edging.
It has its usefulness as a
temporary expedient
when we wish to make our gravel paths before we lay the permanent edging, and it is sometimes used in kitchen gardens.
is
Its
appearance
never good, and the presence of wood in the

at
all
soil is
it
times to be condemned, because

life.
encourages the growth of fungous
Unprepared wood
than two seasons.
it
is
hardly good for more

required to last longer
tar solution or creo-
If
must be dressed with a
soted.
nail
The best way to secure wood edgings is to them to stout square pegs driven firmly
soil.
into the
In putting
down
edgings of every kind they
should never be allowed to stand to a greater

height out of ground than
is
necessary to form
a barrier against rolling earth clods.
CHAPTER
XVIII
Garden Plans
In the following examples of small suburban plot gardens, mostly consisting of plans actually executed, I have applied the principles
set forth in the foregoing pages.
is
Each plan
drawn to
such
general
scale,
and
accompanied by a
I
scale of feet,
and for clearness
have included
only
-the
details as are
needed to indicate
scheme of the garden. These be closely followed whenever the conditions are the same as shown in the
examples
plans.
may
It
should be understood that for a
given set of factors there are
many
possible
arrangements,
sonal taste
all
equally good, so that perinclination
and
may
be allowed
Considera-
considerable scope, so long as the main principles
of planning are observed.
tions of
economy may
dictate the omission
or modification of certain details, which the
gardener
will decide for himself.
My
primary
236
GARDEN PLANS
object in presenting these plans
is
237
to elucidate
the subject of garden design in a concrete form.

If
so
they should prove of use in individual cases, much the better. It should be noted that
is
each plan
that
it will
made
for a special aspect,
and
only hold good for an aspect not
greatly differing
from that shown by the arrow

is
with which the plan

the
marked.
But, given
would serve for plots of similar proportions and dimensions, and with care to preserve due scale between de-
same
aspect, the plan
tails, for plots of
larger or smaller size.
Thus
the plan (Fig. 78) might be appHed to a plot

of twice the length shown,
central grass space
by lengthening the
associated borders,
and
its
and leaving the features at such end the same as shown on the plan. In all these examples the following points have been observed: 1. Grass is confined to compact areas, with means of access to them at more than one point. 2. Trees are placed so as not to cast shadows on the borders.
3.
Principal borders are in full sun.
4.
The summer house entrance
is
in
shade
or partial shade.
238
5.
GARDEN PLANNING
Symmetry
is
in
the main features of the
plan
6.
ignored.
is
Path space
is
reduced to a minimum, so
far as
consistent with achieving a pictur-
esque
7.
effect.
When
grass
space
is
divided,
the two
areas are not of equal size.

8. The vista from the summer house made as interesting as possible.
is
9.
No
curves or angles
other than
right
angles are introduced into the garden lines,
except only where they
may
serve
some useful
purpose, as in Figs. 84 and loi.

I
have adopted the following conventional

all
indications in
the plans:
Full black
Beds and borders

Grass
House
Paths, drives,
Shaded Hatched and vegetable spaces Unshaded
Arches, thus
Pergolas, thus
Glass, thus
GARDEN PLANS
239
Fig. 69. Size, 26 feet by 20 feet. The path at its near end Aspect, SE. communicates with the kitchen yard, and at its far end terminates at an arbour. The space at the angle ot the path might carry a tub or sundial. The north-west boundary fence might be raised with trellis to give increased surface
for
growing climbing plants.
Fig. 70. Size, 42 feet by 20 feet. Aspect, nearly due E. The path terminates at a summer house and gives access to a small yard, in which a toolshed is shown.
Note: In
this
hand diagram;
and succeeding plans, the upper caption pertains to the leftthe lower caption to the right-hand diagram.
240
GARDEN PLANNING
Size, 45 feet 6 inches by 20 Aspect, N. The back entrance screened by the summer house, and the yard offers accommodation for garden requisites, and contains a small tool-shed. The e.xpansion in the path might, carry a vase or tub.
Fie- ?!
is
feet.
gate
Fig. 72.-
g2 feet.
Size, 6s feet 6 inches by Aspect, approximately NE.

is
About one third of the plot hedge and a summer house.
devoted to vegetables and screened
ofi
by a
GARDEN PLANS
241
spaM is given to vegetable ground, a glass house being placed The eastern border continues through the kitchen plot.
Fig.
73.
Size, 69 feet by 15 feet
Half the Aspect, approximately S at the division.
Aspect, E. Thewhole of this plot is laid Fig. 74- Size, s8 feet by 20 feet. against the fence is shady, and out ts flower ground. The southern border should be planted with shade-loving subjects.
242
GARDEN PLANNING
Fig. 75- , Size, 64 feet by 22 feet. Aspect, N. This aspect admits of flower display close to the house-back. A sundial is shown in the gravel space facing the back entrance, and a flower vase in the square expansion of the path. The small detached grass area might be planted with trees to make a shady corner, and bulbs might be planted in the grass.
.
Fig. 76. Size, 67 feet by 25 feet. Aspect, NW. plot Is screened off for use as vegetable ground,
About one third of the and borders are carried
through
it.
GARDEN PLANS
243
Fig. 77.- Size, 87 feet by 30 feet. Aspect, NNE. A feature is made of a formal group of beds facing the summer house, a sundial occupying the centre of the group. The path terminates in an alpine garden, which communicates by steps with a detached grass space, planted for shade. The dividing hedge gives a sense of enclosure to the formal garden, and privacy to th space beyond.
trees,
Fig. 78. Aspect, SW. The summer house, Size, 116 feet by 40 feet. and shrubs screen the diagonal piece of fence. The end space is devoted to a sunken alpine garden. A low rubble wall retains the borders to north and south-west. A raised circular bed occupies the centre. The roofed space at the house-back is a veranda, from which a pleasant vista down the plot if
obtained.
244^
GARDEN PLANNING
Fig.
79-
NE.
THis
to a pleasing arrangement, the pocket at the
Size, 60 feet by 26 feet, expanding at end to 44 feet. Aspect, is not an uncommon shape for suburban plots, and it lends itself end coming as a surprise.
246
GARDEN PLANNING
Size, 68 feet 6 inches by 29 feet, average. Fig. 81. details are sufficiently indicated in the plan.
Aspect,
SW. The
GARDEN PLANS
247
Fig. 82. Size, 146 feet by 49 feet, average. Aspect, SE." A yard witli outbuildings separates the flower garden into two almost equal spaces. The front grass area might be reserved for croquet. A small vegetable ground occupies the extreme end of the plot.
248
GARDEN PLANNING
Fig. 83. Size, 148 feet by 54 roadway, causes a diverging shape.
feet,
average.
Aspect,
NW.
curved
The
details of the plan will sufficiently
explain themselves.
GARDEN PLANS
249
Fig.| 84. ,Size, 113 feet by 36 feet, average. In this case Aspect, SW. the garden boundaries are of unusual shape, but they do not preclude a good arrangement in fact, this may be made a picturesque and interesting garden <f the suggestion contained in the plan be carried out.
250
Fig. 85.; Aspect, E. A simple rectangular pl< Size, 156 feet by 60 feet. with detached house, built on orchard ground. Fruit trees were retained in the positions shown, and made an interesting feature. In this and other examples it should be noted that a trellis screen is introduced to give privacy t0
the kitchen quarters
GARDEN PLANS
251
Fig. 86. Size, 95 feet byyo feet, average. plot devcfted entirely to flower garden.
Aspect, E.
slightly diverging
252
GARDEN PLANNING
Fig. 87. .Size, 129 feet by O4 feet. Aspect, E. A comer plot with separate entrance to the kitchen quarters. In this case the house is placed as far as possible from both thoroughfares. The features include a summer house, a sundial, rock garden, pergola, and group of rose beds.
GARDEN PLANS
253
Fig. 88. Size, 94.feet by 78 feet, averiige. Aspect, W. The house is set parallel with north and west fence lines. The slope to the north-east necesThe terrace wall at its highest part sitates terracing on two sides of the house. Fruit trees are planted in is concealed by the rockwork of the alpine garden.
the south-east comer.
The whole makes a compact and
interesting garden.
254
GARDEN PLANNING
Size, 116 feet by 87 feet. Aspect, nearly W. Fig. 89. The enclosed formal garden south of the house is an interesting feature as seen from the drawing room window. The circular bed and borders on the principal grass space are intended for roses. A dial is placed in the expansion of the path to the east. A kitchen garden is included.
GARDEN PLANS
Fig. 90. Size, 1 24 feet by 92 feet, average. Aspect, E. slightly converging plot, one half laid out as flower ground, the remainder as fruit and vegetable garden.
Note In none of the foregoing plans has any provision been made for a tennis tawn. In most cases the space is insufficient, without destroying the value of the garden as a picturesque flower ground. With plots of larger size the grass space might be utilized for tennis by keeping it free of trees.
:
Figs. 91
to 97 inclusive
show examples of
the
in
fore-courts
or gardens
situated between
house and the thoroughfare,
some
cases being
256
GARDEN PLANNING
In
supplementary to the principal garden, and
others constituting the principal garden space.
Fig. 91. Size, 20 feet by 19 feet. Aspect, S. This plan shows the simple treatment I advocate for a small fore-court. It provides ample flower space and is more effective when well planted than if the design were more complex.
Fig. 92. Size, 20 feet by 18 feet 6 inches. Aspect, W. groui) of flowering shrubs occupies a'central position on the grass. The position of the entrance gate permits of borders on either side of the path.
Fig. 93-
gravel
Fig.
makes
94.
E. An arts .Till arrangement which gives ample border space, and admits of a group of small beds on t the trass.
a:..
Size, 40 feet by 40 feet. Aspect, W. a pleasing and distinctive feature. Size, 19 feet by 30 feet. iia^jci-L, Aspect,
The group of beds on
the
GARDEN PLANS
Size, SI feet by Fig. 9550 feet. Aspect, nearly W. A fore-court larger than the average, treated with no regard
to
symmetry.
Fig. 96. Size, 73 feet by 15 feet. Aspect, S. A not uncommon type of front garden, arranged so as to obtain variety in detail, and a screening effect for the sake of privacy.
258
GARDEN PLANNING
Fig. 97. Size, 59 feet by 32 feet. Aspect, S. A front garden of ample width, admitting of treatment for picturesque effect. With a good screen of trees or shrubs along the front boundary this garden would not be unduly overlooked. It should be noted that the side yard is masked by trees and the summer house by transverse borders. A sundial might be placed in thi central expansion of the path.
GARDEN PLANS
259
The
following four examples of existing gar-
dens, planned
by the author,
will
give the
reader some idea of
how
to treat
spaces
of
larger area than those already illustrated.
Fig. 98. A plot of about one acre. The house had been built before the garden was designed, and made to face due south. Thus it was necessary to work in contradiction to one of the rules laid do\TO in this book Fortunately, the circumstances permitted of obtaining a good result. The diagonally running broad walk constitutes quite a valuable feature. The separation of the kitchen garden into three separate plots was by the owner's wish, and for the purpose of making the lawn on the north side, whence a pleasant oudooK over an adjoining golf course was too-valudble to be sacriaceci or marred by a foreground of vegetables. The formal group of beds in tne south-west comer is a rose garden.
.
26o
GARDEN PLANNING
planning
has
followed
the general
The
principles already expounded,
though with a
by the circumstances, and with concessions to the expressed wishes of the owners, in some of the details.
certain latitude permitted
Fig. 99. This was a plot of irregular shape, through which ran an old hedgerow with several standing elm trees, three or four of which were preserved. The line of this hedgerow followed the sloping path between the steps to the east of it. Note the vista through the kitchen garden, with its background of fruit trees.
GARDEN PLANS
261
Fi, 100. In this example certain details of the garden were determined before tEe design was made, notably the enclosed space south of the house, which is cut off from the fore-court by the tradesmen's passage.
262
GARDEN PLANNING
Fig. loi. A town site, in which the owner wished to make a feature of the alpine garden, to which considerable space has been given. On the other hand, the space devoted to vegetables was to be small and out of sight. The basement areas precluded borders along the house walls. It being a comer site, it was necessary to screen the garden from passers-by along the east boundary. This was done by a substantial trellis in the position indicated on the plan.
CHAPTER XIX
Planting
The
practical aspect of planting

It consists
is
for the
working gardener.
plants in the
soil in
of placing the
such a
way
that they at
once find conditions suitable for growth, both

as regards
nourishment and external environre-
ment.
This implies a knowledge of the

It
is
quirements of each kind of plant.

sufficient to dig a hole
not
and thrust
in the roots.
The
hole should be of the right depth and of

size
accommodate the roots when its bottom, and the soil thrown in should be carefully compacted around the These details, however, roots by pressure. do not enter into the question of garden design. Nevertheless the garden maker has a very
ample
to
spread out over
real concern in the planting operations,

it is
because
in the placing of the plants that his
garden
picture
may
achieve
its
highest development,
or be utterly marred.
263
264
Flowers
GARDEN PLANNING
In planting a
1.
bed or border
it
necessary to consider the flowers in respect to

Colour. Habit. Period of bloom.
Succession.
is
2. 3.
4.
I.
The most
striking characteristic of the
is colour, and the success any piece of planting will depend to a large extent upon the skill and good taste with which the colours are managed. In the days when the old-fashioned flowers were deposed to make room for that unfortunate quartet, scarlet geranium, scarlet sage, canna, and coleus, the canons of good taste were lost sight of in the new-born enthusiasm for vivid contrast in primary colours. The vogue for these flowers has now somewhat declined, but the trail of it still lingers in many gardens, and gardeners continue to plant as if the acme of good effect depended upon the accom-
flower undoubtedly
of
plishment of a
series of garish contrasts
in the
most mand.
brilliant
It
is
gamut
a question
of
colour
at
com-
whether we should
not
ever attempt to associate vividly contrasting

colours,
for
if
the mass of each colour
is
PLANTING
large,
265
they will cancel each other at anything

finest colour effects
but short range.
The
are to be sought
rather in harmonies, which offer a
much wider
opportunity for broad,

telling display,
rich,
both for
of
and conspicuously close inspection and

harmonious
colour
for distant effect.
The
schemes
feeling,
construction
is
not so
much
a matter of rule as of
is
and a sense
for colour
universal.
On
and
the contrary,
it
is
it is
by no means a somewhat
rare gift,
not surprising, therefore,
that a goodly proportion of gardeners

mistakes.
make
Fortunately, however, most people
who
are not colour blind can recognize a good
colour effect
when they
see
it,
though they
may
be powerless to originate one.
The treatment of a bed or border must to some extent be governed by circumstances, and by the number of different colours available.
It
is
not desirable that every square

its
foot of soil should cry aloud at the top of

voice.
Here we may make a subtle harmony of subdued tints, the beauty of which will
appeal only to the near spectator:
there
we
of
may
strive
for
more
insistent
note
266
GARDEN PLANNING
colour, with a view to producing a vivid note

in the general picture.
It
is
with the
crimson,
warm
tints that
one can concolour

effect.
trive
the
greatest
wealth
of
Rose,
scarlet,
orange,
and yellow
each
associate
other.
violet
harmoniously
lavender,
and
reinforce
Lilac,
mauve, purple, and
form another group equally suitable

Whites are generally best
paler
colours,
for a rich concordance, or to contrast in the
mass with yellow.

associated
pinks,
with
the
such
as
mauve, or primrose yellow. The pure blues which we get In the gentian and delphinium are best kept away from the mauve and
purple blooms.
They
are
always
difficult
to
deal with in a harmonized scheme, and perhaps
had best be reserved

with which we
for the
few vivid contrasts
may
punctuate here and there
our colour picture.
The
rich scarlet
which we
will
have
in the lychnis
and Oriental poppy
furnish the other element of such a contrast.
A
rum,
combination of gentian blue with a pale
green foliage plant, like the

is
common
pyreth-
somewhat daring but generally pleasing contrast. The reddish mauves also coma
bine well with this coloured foliage.
PLANTING
It
is
267
the combinations of colour, even when only two

all
hardly possible to enumerate
elements are used.

for a
Those who have an eye

effect will
good colour
experiment for
find
themselves,
and
continually
charming harmonies and contrasts.
new and For those

I
who cannot
trust their colour sense

list
have
compiled a short
in a suitable
of examples
which
if
may
used
be relied upon to yield good results
environment.
Hardy Flower Examples
.^_^
Coloi
White and Mauve
White herbaceous phlox
Mauve
White and Yellow White and Pink White and Pale Blue
Scarlet
violas
Iceland poppies of both colours
White
violas
Herbaceous phlox
Iberis sempervirens
and Blue
Campanula Carpatica Lychnis Chalcedonica

Delphinium
Scarlet and
Crimson
Geum
Pyre thrum Delphiniums of both shades
Sweet-william
Deep Blue and Pale Blue

Crimson and Rose
Herbaceous phlox
Mauve and Yellow
Galega officinalis
Anthemis
Aster Solidago
tinctoria
Crimson and Yellow Purple and Yellow---.
Snapdragons of both colours Crocus

Daffodil
268
GARDEN PLANNING
associated with vivid
Gray foliage should be
colours such as crimson, scarlet, and pure blue;
brown or purple foliage with yellow and orange. Magenta crimsons and bluish pinks should
not be placed in juxtaposition to pure crimsons
or scarlets.
Rose-pink and rosy mauve harmonize with

silvery gray,
and we may have
this
combina-
tion in one plant as in Stachys lanata.
As
a
might be expected, nature rarely makes

mistake, so that a plant's
ally in
own
foliage
is
gener-
harmony with
little
its flowers,
or furnishes
a good background contrast for them.
How
the subject of colour
is
under-
by those who ofi"er guidance in the matter, is shown by the wide differences of view that writers have adopted. One authority, whose opinions one would imagine were the outcome of some defect of vision, says, "Nor have I any preference for one
stood, even
colour over another; but
have very decided
notions that the various colours should be so
completely
in the entire
commingled that one would be

arrangement."
puzzled to determine what tint predominates
This surely
is
most
precise advice
on how
not to achieve a good
PLANTING
colour scheme, and well describes the
269
common
every-
but Ineffective method of arranging a mixed
bed or border,
thing
It
else.
in
which everything
kills
should be an axiom in garden practice

instructive experiment tried
for
to
contrast or harmonize colour In masses.
An
some years
of
since,
determining the best method
painting gun-carriages so as to render
them
inconspicuous at a distance, consisted in using

red, blue,
and yellow paint
In spots, a
kind of
stippling of the surface with the primary colours

In
equal proportions.
The
result entirely real-
ized its originator's Intentions.
The coloured
and
is
spots
were
mutually
destructive,
the
quite
It
resultant tint a neutral gray.

In
This
I
accordance with theory, and

because
is
mention
I
here
It
demonstrates
how
entirely
mistaken
the writer whose dictum
have
just quoted.
Were
planting a bed with flowers of two

I
contrasting colours
should adopt the simple
plan of using a broad edging of one colour with

a central mass of the other.
bed of white
violas, or
/^
pinks, edged with
mauve violas, or of purple blue

edged with yellow
Cantefbufy
bells,
GARDEN PLANNING
with the yellowish-green foliage of
the pyrethrum,would entirely satisfy
my sense of a
When
it
good colour effect. comes to planting a long

Indiscriminate mixis
herbaceous border, the same principles apply.
ture of colours, as already seen,
the least effective

ing,
mode
of plant-
and formal
parallel
rows are
almost equally ineffective.

best
The
way
is
to use large masses of
each colour,
and with them to

regard as a kind of
in
construct a consecutive harmony,
which we
floral
may
spectrum
which colour
succeeds colour, each harmoniously

its neighbour on either These colour masses should not be in simple compartments divided by transverse lines, but of irregular shape, as shown in the
related to
side.
illustration.
The sequence
Fig. 102.
of colours
may
be
varied within limits, always pro-
AT'
her-
'.
vided the rules of harmony be observed.
rangemeht of
baceous border
Here are two typical
series:
PLANTING
(i) Purple,
271
mauve, white, pale yellow, bright

scarlet,
yellow,
orange,
crimson, rose, pink,
white, pale blue, full blue.

(2)
Deep
red,
scarlet,
orange, yellow, pale
yellow, white, pale blue, deep blue.
The same
different
order
may
be repeated, adopting
the
proportions
for
masses
if
the
border
is
a long one, or the scheme
may be
may
be
varied by changing the sequence of colours.
In some cases a more limited scheme

advisable, in which one or
more colours are
suppressed, white being an element which
may
be omitted without detriment to a good
result.
White
is
is
so telling at
always be used with restraint.

a colour that
any time that it should Yellow also

which we use in
may
be overdone.
The
these
affect
foliage of the plants
colour arrangements
may
or
may
not
the
results,
colour values,
erally
by reinforcing the or by toning them down. Geneither

it
speaking, however,
takes a subordi-
nate place, and

reuil,
may
well be neglected.
Chev-
the famous Director of the Gobelins
Dye
Works, who wrote "The Laws of Contrast of Colour," says: "An objection might be addressed to
me
that the green of the leaves
272
GARDEN PLANNING
as a
which serves
the
efl"ect
ground to the flowers destroys

it
is
of their contrast, but
not so;
and to be convinced of it, it is sufficient to fix upon a screen of green silk two kinds of flowers (of contrasting colour) and to look at them from a distance of about ten paces; for when the eye is fixed upon two well-defined objects
simultaneously, surrounding objects
produce
but feeble impressions."

I believe
that in the garden picture
we hardly
appreciate the colour effect of the foliage of
our plants, not only because of the retiring

character of most greens, but because they
the
merge into the other larger masses of green grass, trees, and shrubs and thus become part of the general background. There are, however, the gray and yellow
greens which,
by reason
of their contrast with
the others, are not negligible, and on that
account they
may become
useful as
colour
factors in certain schemes.
The student
sult Chevreuil
of colour in the garden
may conhas an-
with advantage.
sensation
in
He
alyzed
colour
a masterly way,
devoting a special section of his book to horticulture,
and
though
his
conclusions
were
PLANTING
formulated half a century ago, they
still
273
hold
good
2.
in their scientific
and
artistic applications.
is
The
habit of the plant

it is
the next point
to be considered, and
by no means an unim-
portant one.
size,
By
habit
mean not only
shape,
and general appearance, but also those special characters which distinguish one plant from another. It may consist in mode of branching, texture of foliage, form of flower
head, colour of foliage, denseness or sparseness
of blossom, or time of flowering in relation to
leaf
production (some plants,
it is
well
known,
put forth their flowers before their leaves, as

the daphne, forsythia, etc.).
It
is
only when
we know
these details that
we
are in a position
I
it is
to use the plant to best advantage.
have
that
already pointed out
how important
our garden plants should be allowed freedom

of
growth to develop their individual characters.

is
Character in the plant
one of
its
greatest
charms to those who regard it not merely as a means for producing blossom. In referring
to "freedom of
growth"
I
do not wish
it
to be
understood that
of the plant.
condemn those necessary pruning operations which make for the welfare
I refer solely
to the growing of
274
plants in a
GARDEN PLANNING
way
to develop their special habit,
instead
of
pinching and cutting them into

foreign to their nature.
some conventional form
To make
effect
is
the point clear I
may
is
instance a
herbaceous border in which the best general
produced when there
no
rigid sys-
tem
of grading the plants in height.
Though
the rule should be to put the taller and more
robust plants to the back,
it is
essential to the
best results from a picturesque point of view
that this rule should be broken occasionally,
by here and there reversing

irregular
it.
One
or more
bold clumps of flower brought to the front at

intervals
gives
character to the
border that would be unobtainable in

other way.
any
The gardener who

garden
keep
tion,
prides himself on a tidy
may
resent the intrusion of a massy

his
clump upon
It
till
path or grass edge, and
will
within bounds by Ill-judged mutilathe poor intruder becomes a

It
Is
maimed
and the
wreck.
plants
by
this kind of
gardening that
are
Is
shorn of their beauty,

a stiff
Is
border
made
and formal
to
detail.
The
next point
to see that each plant has
sufficient
elbow-room
develop
without
PLANTING
hindrance from
its
275
neighbours.
This does not
imply a starved bed or border, only that,
armed with the knowledge

plant,
of the habit of each

it
the
to
gardener
allots
just
sufficient
grow centrifugally without check from Thus the taller plants may its companions. be separated by others of more moderate growth, and the former will have space above to expand their foliage unhindered. Again, with a knowledge of plant habit we may associate bushy plants with those which tend to legginess to use a term well known to the gardening fraternity and thereby conceal the uninteresting view of a sheaf of bare stalks. Plants which throw up long narrow spikes of flower may keep company
room
with others having a tufted habit, to their mutual advantage in the general effect. Those
with silvery, glaucous, or bronze foliage

be
placed
may
where they
kinds
of
will
reinforce
others
whose flowers are best

these
special
set off
by contrast with
Shrubs and
foliage.
plants which flower in advance of their leaves
may
be supported
plant
for
leafing plants.
Again,
by evergreen or earlywe may use the boldwith

those
foliaged
association
276
of Sparse
GARDEN PLANNING
and inconspicuous habit.
The
final
result of care in these
particulars will be a
natural, informal effect, in
which every individis,
ual plant appears to be, and

its
at
home
is
in
surroundings, and in consequence

its
bfest
conditioned for producing
maximum
If,
contri-
bution to the aggregate picture.

instanced,
as I
have
some vigorous plant pushes forward beyond the boundary, or some pretty trailer
ignores the edging,
it is
a gain to the gardener
and no
spire
fault of the planting.
such accidents, in reason.

to bring
of
He should suffer He may even confor
them about,
the
special
purpose
garden.
importing
informality into
the
In the back row, variety of height is desirable,
even when
all
are
tall,
for the plants will
sil-
houette against the background, and an even

row, like soldiers on parade, would be monot-
onous.
In beds and groups of beds the same principles apply,
but not quite

tall
in the
same degree.
We may
group the
plants in the centre
and reserve the margin for others of smaller and more uniform size. Though we may plan on geometrical lines, we should, like the painter,
PLANTING
endeavour to soften them.
,277
Our
plants will
do that
3.
for us
is
if
only
we
allow them.
It
only by making ourselves acquainted

sure that those
with the flowering period of our plants that
we can be
for the
we
bring together
purpose of constructing a contrast or
colour
time.
harmony will be in bloom at the same Not only should they start approxias far as possible, coincide in
mately simultaneously, but their periods of
bloom should,
length, because the effect will be
measured
in
duration by the period of the flower which

lasts the shortest time.
it is
By judicious selection
possible to contrive that there shall be few
failures
4.
from
this source.
is
Succession
the very keynote of good

afford
gardening, for
we cannot
to shorten
the period during which flowers are possible,
nor can
we tolerate empty spaces

seedsman's
in
our borders.
the garden
By
consulting a
list
maker may select his plants and so dispose them that, as the spring-blooming kinds fail, others will succeed for the summer months to be followed in their turn by the autumnblooming kinds.
This system of succession,
well arranged, will give us flowers
from Febru-
278
GARDEN PLANNING
ary to mid-November, thus covering the maxi-
mum
period during which
we
It
are likely to be
able to enjoy our gardens.
nicety of method, particularly
demands some when the bor-
ders are laid out for a broad colour effect, im-
plying that each separate colour group must
contain plants of which some will always be in

flower.
In other words, the distribution of
early, middle,
and late-flowering plants must

in intimate asso-
be over the whole space and

ciation.
My
references have been confined to hardy
plants, because they alone
come within the
purview of the garden designer. The effects to be obtained from annuals and bedding-out plants belong to the routine of garden management, but the same principles apply as regards
colour, habit, period,
and succession.
CHAPTER XX
Further Considerations Garden Making
in
The
in the
impress of art should be as
much
in
evidence in the minor details of the garden as
more important and more obvious
ones.
Carelessness in small matters
may
go a long
skill
way
to
undo the
results of
thought and
devoted to the main features.

In the foregoing pages
the garden designer. the
I
have endeavoured
to formulate simple rules for the guidance of

I
have not only stated

the
"how" but
also
"why,"
believing
that thereby my' advice will carry more weight
and be the better understood and remembered. Although the construction of a garden plan on paper is a necessary preliminary to the practical operations on the site, it will only carry the garden maker a certain way toward
the desired result.
Much
-79
of the detail will

It
is
have to be
filled in
on the ground.
in the
286
GARDEN PLANNING
finishing touches that he
may add
distinction
to the picture, and he should, therefore, study

his
work as
it
proceeds, looking for opportunities

effects in detail.
for
I
minor embellishments and
do not mean that he should seek for an overelaborated result, but he should be alive to possibilities, and should neglect none of the
various openings which
for artistic
I
may
present themselves
work
in a small
way.
in the plant-
have already dealt with colour
ing of beds and borders, but there are other

places in which the garden
duce charming
effects.
geous pieces of colour
One work
maker may introof the most gorI
have ever seen

firs
was the
result of planting Virginia creeper at

in the fore-
the foot of a clump of small

court of a country residence.
it
In a short time
had clambered up amongst the dark foliage, and had festooned it with graceful sprays. In
summer
the foliage told as light green against
dark, but the effect in autumn,
when every
leaf
was vivid carmine, was indescribably beautiful. I remember also a similar effect in a Scottish garden, in which a flame nasturtium {Tropcsolum speciosum) had taken possession of a large straggling elder tree, and wreathed it about
GARDEN MAKING
with masses of
case was a
scarlet.
281
result
in
The
that
happy
accident, but none the less
worthy of being noted and subsequently repeated with deliberate intent. This nasturtium cannot be found in America, but the trumpet
vine offers a near substitute.
Reds always come so well against a mass of dark foliage that we can never make a mistake
in contriving effects like those just described.
effects of
There are colour effects of contrast and colour harmony, and we may employ either
or both according to circumstances.
An
irregular belt of the beautiful palmate-
leaved Japanese maples on the near side of a
mass of shrubs makes a glorious expanse of quiet but sufficiently conspicuous colour, if
the component plants be selected for variety
of tint
and texture.
favourite box elder {Acer negundo), and
if
The
its
gold-leaved variety,
often repeated, proeffect,
duce a cheap and commonplace

note of colour.
the
but a
single specimen, well placed, strikes a
charming
A like
effect
Is
obtainable with
common
habit.
golden elder, which should be

its
cut to the ground every year to preserve
bushy
282
GARDEN PLANNING
flowering trees afford us abundant opin
The
portunity for constructing colour masses
the vertical plane, but their colour must be

seen against a solid background of green foliage
to yield
its
best effects.
This applies particu-
larly to trees with loose,
open
foliage like the
thorn, almond, and laburnum.
Subjects like
the horse chestnut are sufficiently dense in

foliage to constitute their
I
own background. have already referred to the planting of

Some
surpassingly beautiful
less
bulbs in grass.
effects
may
be contrived in the
formal
parts of the garden
by the
judicious use of
bulbs in this way.
The
daffodil, crocus, scllla,
and snowflake are suitable
for
in
the purpose.
They should be arranged
large groups of
is
one colour, not commingled as
so often done.
In a half-shady corner, particularly where

there are banks, the polyanthus or lily-of-thevalley,
may
be naturalized, and
gardening
will
prove a
a costly
delightful feature in spring.
Though
subtropical
is
and troublesome hobby, a semi-tropical effect may be secured on a small scale by selecting Given a position not too suitable plants.
closely
related with
formal
surroundings.
It
GARDEN MAKING
is
283
only hardy plants.

the
skill
worth while to attempt such an effect, using Success will depend upon
with which the materials
I
are
em-
ployed.
should prefer a sheltered position,

as
and
should plant such trees
sumach, Ailanthus, Aralia There buria adiantifolia.

lection
spiiiosa,
should
staghorn and Saltsbe a colreeds
of
hardy
bamboos,
yuccas,
Arundo conspicua and A. donax), pampas grass, and bold-foliaged plants like acanthus, polygonum, rhubarb, and rodgersia. I would introduce kniphofia for its colour value. Of smaller plants I should select those which afford a suggestion of exotic form funkia, Bocconia cordata, crown im(particularly
perial,
Solomon's
seal,
coltsfoot,
verbascum,
I
ferns,
and many others which
need
not
enumerate.
The beauty of a pseudo-tropical garden made on these lines would consist in the variety
and
special
character
of
it
everything being hardy,
the foliage, and would not involve
a tithe of the trouble and expense of a subtropical garden.
The graceful habit and beauty of flower of our hardy climbers make them valuable material
284
GARDEN PLANNING
For the pergola, walls and for special effects amongst
for the gardener.

fences, arches,
trees
and
subjects for the house
and shrubs, they are indispensable. As walls they have their

and extent of the wall
around us
it
is
best opportunity for full development, because

of the height
surfaces.
With
so
many charming examples

houses
of climber-
covered
remarkable
that the gardener so often overlooks the possibilities of
creating a beautiful picture on the
house walls.
The
oft-repeated
fallacy
that
growth of this kind causes damp walls has already been refuted. It doubtless accounts for the studied neglect of this part of the garden
picture.
In
my opinion
nothing helps to bring

its
the house into
harmony with
garden sur-
roundings so effectually as the treatment of

its
walls with creepers, particularly those which

full
tend toward a
and informal habit,
clus-
tering in rounded masses as they ascend and
benignly concealing the angles and straight

lines
of
the
brickwork.
all
There
should
be
creepers to flower at
aspect.
seasons and for every
Of purely
foliage ones I should not
be
lavish, particularly of such subjects as
Boston
ivy {Ampelopsis tricuspidata) ^ which hugs the
GARDEN MAKING
walls in a thin sheet of uniform surface.
285
But
of the climbing roses, clematis, jasmines, honeysuckle,

I
and wistaria we cannot be too prodigal.

for
have already referred to the necessity
not overdoing the whites in the garden.

tells
more strongly than any
colour,
White and scat-
tered whites have a tendency to degrade the

colours with which they are associated.
But
white
may
be used in a
if it
way
to produce an
admirable effect
It
is
be the right kind of white. be used in the mass, and

I
essential that
it
no more beautiful feature for a garden than a dense group of Lilium candidum, its pure white petals softened and modified by the yellow anthers and their reflections.
of
know
There are certain plants and shrubs which have a special claim to be treated as "specimens," affording us a means of adding
interest to a lawn.
One
of the best of these
is
the yucca, which
hardy and evergreen, and throws up a fine, bold spike of creamy flowers. It should be placed where it will be sheltered from cold winds, and preferably in association
is
with other shrubs.
The pampas
grass
is
another equally valuable

It is
plant, too familiar to need description.
286
GARDEN PLANNING
it
best placed in an isolated position where
will
have space to throw out

foliage,
its
graceful, arching
and
if
possible
background
so freely.
for the
it should have a foliage creamy plumes it produces
Terrace walls, whether the brick or masonry

kinds so dear to the architect, or the rough
rubble walls which with advantage
may
take
their place, should never be allowed to
be bare.
The former may be

latter with alpines.
clothed with creepers, the
Shady
corners,
and spaces
be planted
if
unsuitable for flower-growing,
may
in
with ferns, which thrive best
shade
they
have protection from cold winds. An interesting feature in an English garden was called an "Orchid Dell" by the owner. It
was a hollow on
a chalky hillside,
earlier
which had
been excavated at some
period, and,
before taken in hand, had supported a straggling
growth of hazel.
grass.
Soil
had gravitated to the

fine
bottom, and had become overgrown with

the
hazel
Native ferns were planted freely about

stems.
rough
spiral
path was
In the
carried from the floor to the brink of the dell,
threading
its
way through
the thicket.
grass, native orchids
were planted, and the con-
GARDEN MAKING
ditions
287
common
of the
proved favourable to their welfare. The bluebell, wild anemone, and primrose
woods were added, being confined mainly
to the steep banks.
The
dell
effect in spring
was
beautiful, the flowers losing nothing

in partial shade.
by being
wild
The
was entered through

joy
natural
arch
I
of traveller's
this
the
clematis.
mention
as an instance of
what may be done to beautify what by many would be regarded as a piece of waste ground
suitable only as a
dumping place
exact
the garden
for
garden
is
rubbish.
possible
An
on
almost
counterpart
spots
most of
of
America.
In spite of our best efforts to
beautiful at every point.
It will
make the garden

happen at times,
unfortunately, that ugly objects intrude into

the picture.
stable building, pottlng-shed,
garage, or other structure, necessary but unbeautiful, offends the
eye,
and
it.
it
should be
the gardener's care to conceal
Much may
and whilst development
be done by planting trees and shrubs, but they

take time to grow to sufficient
the natural screen
It
Is
size,
is
In progress of
well to erect a
training
temporary one of trellis, some quick-growing climbers upon it.
288
GARDEN PLANNING
In certain cases there

for the
may
be insufficient room
trellis
natural screen, and then the
should be a permanent structure, built substantially of stout materials.
tions
might enumerate a vast number of suggesand expedients for creating beauty in the garden details, but I could not hope to exhaust
I
the subject within the limits of this chapter.
Each garden provides its own particular set of problems, and the main point for the garden maker is to be alive to opportunities for interesting work and to avail himself of them to the utmost. Though I have emphasized the
importance
of
studying
the
general
effect,
and of treatment adapted for securing a broad, well-composed, and interesting picture, I regard it as equally important that the details
should be as carefully studied.
seen in two
ways
as a pleasant place afford-
garden
is
ing a sense of space, repose, and variety of
form and colour, and as something to examine and plant. In time the outlines of the garden become so familiar to the owner that they only feebly imin detail for its interest of flower
press him, but not so the beds, borders,
and
other parts of the garden devoted to flower
GARDEN MAKING
display.
289
The
latter
are ever changing with
the seasons and growth of the plants, and thus

are places of perennial interest.
Is
This, I think,
sufficient reason for attention to the smaller

I
garden problems, and
regard such problems,
so far as they Involve constructive
coming within the province of the garden designer. Whether his efforts are directed to the removal or concealment of some eyesore, or to the creation of some pleasing effect in colour, or to providing a means of growing some specially interestwhich
I
Include planting
as
work
in
ing kind of plant, the result will be of value to
the
will
garden as "finish," that quality
which
of
stamp
his
work with the character

Is
thoroughness.
reserve plot
It
a useful adjunct to
any
it is
is
garden.
may
is
be placed wherever a con^
venlent spot
associated
available,
but most often

It
with a kitchen garden, which

is
perhaps the best practice.

for raising
just a place
and pricking out

It
seedlings,
but
if
space permits
may
be made to serve the
further purpose of growing flowers for cutting.
Most garden owners
are only too delighted to
offer plants to their friends,
and the reserve
290
garden
the
is
GARDEN PLANNING
the
place
distribute surplus stuff without

in
beds.
It
from which they may making gaps also conduces to economy,

hardy perennials
for nearly all the
may
so
be
to
easily raised
from seed
in the reserve garden,
and
raise
it
is
a source of
much
interest
them.
CHAPTER XXI
The Evolution
While
equally
it
of
an Ideal Lot
is
may
be quite true that there

it
but
also
one ideal plan for any given place

true
is
that
the
development of that
particular plan
fact that
is
may
be by gradual growth
be
often overlooked.
Given
a proper
general plan to start with the details
may
elaborated step by step, always adding, never

tearing down,
and so giving progressive octhe gardener

for
cupation
ahead.
in
for
several
years
This has been splendidly illustrated
an article in the Garden Magazine with the accompanying progressive plans, by Mr. C. Stanton, all of which are here reproduced. Taking the typical suburban division, it is
pointed
out that the land

is
surrounding the
dwelHng
divided into three parts
the service
portion, the "front lawn," and the living area.
The
service portion including the drives, walks,

291
292
GARDEN PLANNING
(all
the garage, the clothes-yard, etc.
those parts
which are necessary to the proper functioning of the estate, but which we do not expect will add
much
of
all,
to
its
beauty), should be determined
first
as these things are
fundamental to the
comfort of the occupants and affect the every-day

activities.
This area
is
to be kept as
compact
it
as
possible to save space,
and so that
it
may
be In
readily shut from view of the living area.
the accompanying plan,
has been placed on

it
the shady side of the house, in order that
may
be hidden from the rest of the estate, and so that people in the garden and on the piazza will not
be bothered by the noises of the kitchen,
etc.,
and by delivery wagons coming to the house. This arrangement allows about as much land
on the southern
side that
side of the house, the
"sunny"
we wish
to develop, as
it is
possible to
have.
The
front lawn area
is
that portion of the
property that your fellow townspeople see as
they walk by on the
street.
This has been
enough to provide a setting for the house, and to bring it far enough away from the street with its dust and noise. While this
large
made only
part
is
comparatively simple to develop, there
THE EVOLUTION OF AN IDEAL LOT

are enough
293
ways of doing
it
to allow for plenty
of originality in the design.

It
is
in
the planning of our
own
skill.
private
living area, however, that there are unlimited
opportunities to
show individual
First
we must
that
try to secure a certain
amount of
privacy, without shutting out any fine views
we may be
will
is,
fortunate enough to have.
The
plan shows the places where the screens are to
come that
views.
It
hide most of the undesirable
of course, impossible to shut an
objectionable piece of landscape from sight of

all
it
points of the property, so
we
strive to hide
from the points that
will
be the most used.
These would be the piazzas, any terraces, the places where we intend to put seats, etc. On the specimen plan (page 295) the spots that
command
block
the fine views in the distance have
been marked so that
them
out.
we will not by any chance The privacy can be secured

trees, shrubs, walls, fences,
by the use of hedges,

etc.,
is
and we can take our choice.
used must be kept in
Whatever harmony with the house.
The great trouble with walls and hedges is that when they are tall enough to hide the inside
from prying eyes, they are
liable to
be so
tall
294
GARDEN PLANNING
For
the
that they will obstruct our good views.

the
average
place
nothing
can
equal
"mixed border" of trees, shrubs, and perennials

as a screen,
when
it is
properly designed; as
it
allows such a great latitude in the choice of

material.
are
Methods of carrying out the rough outline shown (Figs. 103 to 105). In (Fig. 104) tall
and act
as screens;
trees supply the shade
and
a shrub border
is
for privacy.
have
been saved, all " framed. " Two trees shade the house, and three
(preferably elms) the front lawn and the side-
The good views and several of them
walk.
its
The shrub border used
in this plan
has
outhne composed of long, sweeping curves, which allow it to be wider in some places than in
others,
in
and give
chance to frame "surprises"

into
some of the bays
which one cannot see
until directly opposite them.
One should be
rest
careful in planning a border of this sort not to
make
it
so large that
it
cramps the
it is
of the
garden.
On
small lots
better to have the
outhne of the bed

effects.
a straight line,
and depend on
the variety of material used to give the best
The house
is
made
to harmonize with
its
sur-
Fig. 103
Stage
^The
General Beginning
shown on the following pages
295
Two
progressive elaborations are
Stage
II
Simple massing of screen planting and

lines are
Fig. 104
garden features. (The view
beginning of kept open)
296
Fig.
Stag
III.
A garden of features developed upon the

the plan
105
lines of
shown on page 299

297
298
GARDEN PLANNING
its
roundings by plantings near

usually grouped
effects,
base.
These are
at
the corners for the best
and
may
be placed so that they directly
touch the house or there
may
be room
left
be-
tween
for a path, or for the air to circulate.
Do
not plan too
many
small beds for the foundation
planting, but rather let one or
two
larger ones
do the work.
where
it is
one of the many cases better to err on the side of underThis

is
doing rather than overdoing.

berry hedge
is
Japan bar-
used to keep animals and people
from walking on the front lawn.

In this plan the flower garden consists of a
small informal border of perennials, enclosed
on three
so that
it
sides
by shrubs.
it is
It
has been placed
will get the sunshine
during the greater
part of the day; and as
fairly
near the house,
one can enjoy
its
beauty from there or from the

This terrace, by
small raised terrace opposite.
the way, would be a good place to
make
"surprise" of a bed of hardy ferns, as they could
be banked in around the seat there, and should grow well in the shade. In locating the garden, note this point: it should not be placed where
its
bright colors will distract the eye from any

bit
charming
of scenery beyond, but rather

placed where
it
299
will attract the

it
eye to
itself in-
wander to some unsightly object beyond the boundary and which you are
stead of letting
powerless to hide.
Another method
wall lawn area
(Fig. 105) of carrying
out the
general idea has the service portion and the front
much
the same, except that a low
wall replaces the barberry hedge along the street

front; the shade trees are arranged a little differently;
tion planting has been placed
and the large corner bed of the foundaaway from the
house to allow for a walk between, and to bring

it
far
as a screen for the
enough out into the lawn to make it serve Hving area. One would not
grocer's
want the
using the turnstile in the corner, but
boy to get into the habit of it would be
very handy to anybody hurrying out in that

direction.
feature
is
made
same
of the hemlock hedge, and
a grove of the
material.
stepping-stone
walk between the hedge and a bed of flowering shrubs gives a chance for various surprises
(fancy ferns, wild flowers, possibly a seat, or a
bird-bath), and leads one out to the terrace in
the rear where there
is
good
seat.
Here one
the
may
either admire the
view
in the rear, or
300
GARDEN PLANNING
sunken garden straight ahead.

is
The garden
enclosed on two sides by a wall, on the third

a hedge,
by
and on the fourth by the retaining
wall of the terrace.
By
such means
is
variety
obtained in our garden enclosures.
Looking
is
from the house, the good view
in
the rear
en-
hanced by the groups of cedars, and by the two deciduous trees on the terrace.
Some
1.
cardinal principles involved are thus
itemized:
Keep the
drive as short as possible, except
where doing so will bring it too much into prominence in the scenery. 2. For the small place plan a straight drive; but where the length is more than one hundred feet it is usually better to make it curved. These
curves should not be abrupt, but very gradual
and easy.
to have
as a
3.
When making curves, it is the rule some apparent reason for them, such
knoll.
the
group of trees or shrubs, or a
Keep
lawns open!
Especially avoid
planting one shrub, or making a flower bed, or a
"half-barrel" in the centre of the lawn.

4.
Any
flower bed
is
better
if it is
enclosed.
For this purpose we
may
choose either a wall, a
well-designed fence, a hedge, shrubs, or com-

binations of these.
3OI
The
small informal border

if it is
of flowers
set into
5.
may
be enclosed on three sides
one of the bays of the shrub border. Usually the vegetable garden would be
il
placed in the service portion of the place, but

it is
well kept and can be subdued to

is
its
propel
relation, there
no reason
It
is
why
it
cannot open
off the living area.
a real delight to
many
gardeners to have a chance to look over a well-
kept vegetable garden.

apple and pear,
Fruit trees, especially
may
be used in the living area,
serving the dual purpose of supplying fruit and
shade; but,
fruit
6.
is
if
they be so used, take care that the

en-
kept picked up fpom the lawn.
Do
not so plant that a small place
is
tirely surrounded or it will
be hot and stuffy in sumsmaller than

it
mer, and will appear

7.
much
need.
Remember
that the more "surprises" one

it
can develop on an estate the larger

8.
will
seem.
In designing the foundation planting, do
not plan to hide the entire base of the house,

as
gUmpses of the stone work are necessary to
give the impression of strength and stability
that are not attainable

to
sit
when the house seems
upon a mass of waving greenery; and do not rely on young forest trees that grow big.
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