Easy TCA vs Easy Phytic

Purifying vs Purigel

Dr Philippe Deprez
Policlnica Esttica & anti aging

Phd@estetik.com

Port Grec, 40, pb 17487 Empuriabrava - Espaa

Tel +34 972 45 01 51 Fax: + 34 972 45 23 23 http://www.estetik.com/centres/cmeempur.htm
1

What is Acne

Acne is a multifactorial and dynamic process involving the whole pilosebaceous unit.(PSU)

Comedo vs acne genesis

Comedogenesis:
Compact non inflammatory hyperkeratosis of the PSU precedes acnegenesis

Acnegenesis

What Happens ?

Inflammation of PSU after clogging of dead corneocytes closing the PSU. Infection. Pustules and papules appear.

PSU hyperactivity
Excretion of lipids is controlled hormonally: 5 alpha reductase sensitive cells to Testosterone produce more sebum than they can eliminate. LH pic after ovulation can produce the same effect. Oxidation of fatty acids produce inflammation and Free radicals reactions => vicious circle.

Keratinization problems
The keratinization process in the lower part of PSU is the same than in skin surface.

Maturation of these keratinocytes and elimination into the PSU begins the comedogenesis because keratinocytes of acne patients tend to stick together ( due to + and - electric charges and the high production of sebum ) .
This blocks the pores and produce the "blackheads" if the pore is still open or the "white head" if the pore is closed and infected.

Bacteries invasion and body reaction

Dead cells and sebum is a great nutritional source for Bacteries. Skin immunity acts and produces an inflammatory reaction: the typically "pimple". The exact role of bacteries is not completely understood but it seems that bacterian lipases break sebum triglycerides and the oxidation of free fatty acids can produce inflammation through inflammatory mediators.

Treatment should consist in:

Normalization of Keratinization and exfoliation

Purifying cream contains pure retinol microencapsulated in cyclodextrins.

Purigel contains salicylic acid and Burdock Burdock extracts (Arctium Majus): keratinization normalization Salicylic acid acid is keratolytic

Reduce Bacteries Proliferation

Benzoyl peroxide acts against bacteries producing a strong free radicals production that can damage the skin after long term treatment. Antibiotics can be indicated if necessary, but 60% of patients exhibit multi-antibiotic resistance Purifying cream: Tea tree oil and Triclosan (cyclodextrines) can achieve this goal Purigel: contains Triclosan (cyclodextrines) and Burdock (bacteriostatic)

Unclog pores
AHA and Retinol can unclog pores but comedones extraction should be performed at the beginning of the treatment. Purifying: contains AHA and retinol in cyclodextrines Purigel contains salicylic acid: comedolytic

Limit the inflammatory response of the body

Purifying contains: Tea tree oil and triclosan in cyclodextrines and tocopherol Tea tree oil and Triclosan have anti inflammatory properties Tocopherol acetate can fight against oxidation by scavenging FRO production and limiting oxidative damage and vicious circle. Purigel Contains Burdock extracts acid which is antiinflammatory

Moisturizing

Skin dryness have been reported as an important factor in exacerbating active acne. Glycyrrhetinic acid and glycolic acid are able to moisturize the skin. Purifying contians glycyrrhetinic acid and glycolic acid

Decrease the level of sebum production

Hormonal stabilization Use of topical or general retinoids ( tretinoin or isotretinoin ) Use of thiol derivatives: Purigel contains THIOSOME (Methionin and cysteine compound) that reduces sebum production

Globally
Skin Tech Purifying cream is strongly disinfectant and keratolytic Purifying is used between peelings and 2 weeks after last peel Purigel is strongly disinfectant and reduces PSU (Pilo Sebaceous Units) hyperactivity Purigel is used as a long term maintenance treatment

Tips
Facial cleansing should be gently achieved with "Skin tech cleanser foam". No vigorous rubbing. Avoid exposition to sun and sunbeds. ( sun produces an anti inflammatory result but also an higher production of sebum and keratin. More, sun lowers immunitary defenses of the skin ) Sun may darken the final colour of acne scars

Comedones extraction done with comedone extractor

Purifying vs purigel
PURIFYING CREAM Crme de soins journaliers inter peelings PURIGEL Gel non gras : soins journaliers a long terme Thiosome : rduit la production de sbum Burdock extracts : action anti acnique directe anti inflammatoire anti bacterien keratolytique Triclosan : antiseptique -anti inflammatoireantimycotique Acide salicylique : Evite locclusion des pores

Ac glycolique (8%) adoucit la peau vite locclusion des pores - stimule le turnover pidermique - pH 4 Rtinol = Prcurseur de la trtinoine, draine les unites pilo sbaces. Vit E : tocopheryl acetate : anti radical libre, rompt le cercle vicieux oxydation inflammation Triclosan : antiseptique -anti inflammatoireantimycotique Acide glycyrrhtinique : hydrate, anti prurit, anti allergique Tea tree oil: extrait darbuste australien, aussi actif que le benzoyl peroxyde mais sans effet pro oxydant Anti bactrien, anti virus anti mycotique anti inflammatoire

Menthol/camphor : sensation de rafrachissement cutan

During peels

Maintenance

8 days

8 days

8 days

6 weeks regeneration

Time line

1st ETCA session

2nd

3rd

4th ETCA session

Purifying cream

Purigel

Thank you
For Your attention

Policlnica Esttica & anti aging

Dr Philippe Deprez
Academy of Medical Sciences - Bucuresti Honour member

Ed Informa Health Care English version (450pp) Korean version (600pp):

Port Grec, 40, pb 17487 Empuriabrava - Espaa

Tel +34 972 45 01 51 Fax: + 34 972 45 23 23 http://www.estetik.com/centres/cmeempur.htm 18 phd@estetik.com

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