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INTRODUCTION
For jet black colour with direct, reactive, sulphur, vat and other classes of dyestuff requires large amount of dyestuff For example: whereas 2 3% of blue. Green or brown vat dye produce deep dyeings, a jet black is obtained by using 8 to 10% of black vat dye If lower percentage of dye is used, a grey shade will be produced For perfect shade, the cost will increase For direct dye the cost would be not so high The colour fastness to washing would be poor Not suitable for certain applications like umbrella cloth
Black dye from sulphur can be used But tendering occurs due to the formation of sulphuric acid A large amount of sulphur dye should be used to get the shade A class of colour can be successfully used for producing jet black shades in the cotton materials Economical Extremely fast to water and wet treatments Known as ANILINE BLACK Also known as oxidation colours
Aniline black is produced by oxidation of aromatic amines inside the fibre at elevated temperature in acidic medium This class of dye is thus known as oxidation colours So, aniline black is the oxidation product of aniline
Acid is needed for activating sodium chlorate during the ageing or steaming step
A deep black is produced after ageing, but the black shade produced is not permanent On reduction it will turn into bottle green. It is called greenable aniline black A subsequent treatment with dichromate solution under slightly acidic condition (called chroming) produces the final oxidation product, the ungreenable aniline black
335 Kg
50 Kg 200 Litres
250 Kg
30 Kg 200 Litres
230 Kg
Use of Chemicals
Aniline Aniline is oxidised into black ingrain dyes after being impregnated inside the textile material HCl Hydrochloride acid is used to convert the insoluble aniline into soluble aniline hydrochloride salt Aniline oil this is used so that no excess HCl remains in the bath Tragacanth used to increase the viscosity of the dye solution Pottasium ferrocyanide used as catalyst for the ageing Sodium chlorate used as oxidising agent Pottasium dichromate used for chroming agent P-aminoazobenzene used as a catalyst during chroming operation
MINERAL KHAKI
Involves a series of chemical reaction to make the process economical A large amount of cloth is dyes by this process to make military / police uniform The insolubility of the metal oxides in water imparts excellent water fastness
Iron Has two state Ferrous Ferric Oxides of ferrous is known as ferrous oxide Oxides of ferric is known as ferric oxide Chromium Oxides of chromium is known as chromium oxide
Ferric oxide and chromium oxide gives the khaki colour Fe2O3 + Cr2O3 (Ferric oxide) (Chromium oxide) Khaki Shade
Both the ferric and chromium oxide are insoluble in water and thus a very good washing fastness property is achieved
Since, these oxides are insoluble in water so they cant be directly applied
Soluble salts of iron and chromium is used For iron both ferrous sulphate and ferric sulphate can be used but ferrous is preferable since it is cheaper
So, a liquor is made which contains a mixture of chromium sulphate and ferrous sulphate The cloth is padded with the solution and dried in a hot flue The fabric is then passed through boiling alkali when the corresponding metal hydroxides are precipitated in the fabric
This is then aired for the conversion of chromium hydroxide into chromium oxide and ferrous hydroxide into ferric oxide
8Na2Cr2O7 8Na2SO4
+ +
32H2SO4 8Cr2(SO4)3
Cr2(SO4)3 2Cr(OH)3
6NaOH Cr2O3
2Cr(OH)3 + 3Na2SO4
Please Note
Mineral khaki- dyed cloth is often over dyed (topped) with Vat Khaki If the entire shade is built up with these vat dyes, the dyeing process becomes costly In order to reduce the cost of dyeing, a major part of the shade is produced by the mineral khaki and topped with a small percentage of the vat dye
NATURAL DYEING
Introduction
Natural dyes are derived from the natural sources Plant Mineral Animal
Problems with the synthetic dyes Pollution Ozone gas hole Greenhouse gasses Azo dyes Allergic disperse dyes
Potential hazard in chemical production plants Risky process to produce the synthetic dyes As opposed natural dyes are considered to be less hazardous and eco-friendly
Limitations of natural dyes Availability Colour yield Complexity of dyeing process Reproducibility of shades Applicable only on wool, natural silk, linen and cotton Great difficulty in blending dyes Non-standardized Inadequate degree of fixation Inadequate fastness properties Water pollution by heavy metals
Advantage of natural dyes Obtained from renewable sources No health hazards Practically no or mild chemical reactions are involved in there preparation
No disposable problems
Maximum production of natural dyes ------ 90, 000 tonnes / year To produce one million of natural dye about 100 million plants are required to cultivate
The agricultural land require to cultivate the same would be approx. 250 500 acres which is around 10 20% of the area cultivated for grain throughout the world
BLUE Dyes
In the colour index there are only 3 natural blue dyes
Natural indigo Sulphonated indigo Flowers of Japanese Tsuykusa
Indigo is the most widely used and most popular Indigo is derived from plant The production of natural indigo has decreased after the invention of synthetic indigo The dyeing process of natural indigo is same as that of the synthetic indigo It comes under the classification of vat dyes
RED Dyes
In the colour index there is a list of 32 natural dyes The prominent among the red dyes are madder, manjeet, brazil wood, lac dye Lac dye is extracted from the lac i.e from the secretion of the tiny insects and is based on acid dyes. Lac dyes are therfore used for protein fibres like wool and silk Lac dye has a very good light and washing fastness
Yellow Dyes
Yellow dye is the most common in natural dye In the colour index there is a list of 28 yellow dyes
Sr. No. 1 2 3 4 5 6
Common Name Indigo Madder Manjeet Lac Dye Tesu Kamala Vat
Dye Class Mordant / Disperse Acid / Mordant / Disperse Acid / Mordant Mordant / Disperse Mordant / Disperse
Fastness Properties
Poor wash fastness of natural dye is due to Weak dye-fibre bond between the natural dye and the fibre Change in the hue due to dye-metal complex during washing Ionisation of the natural dyes during alkaline washing Since most of the natural dyes have hydroxyl groups which get ionised under alkaline condition and change their colour
Washing fastness of some of the natural dyes can be improved by post treatment with alum or a dye fixing agent resulting in the formation of Dye complex Cross-link between dye and fibre
Please note: Tannins being large molecular compounds do not diffuse into the fibre easily Hence dyeings based on tannins show poor rubbing fastness on cotton
Light fastness is poor Post treatment with a metal salt can result in an improvement in the light fastness of some natural dyes However, a post treatment with metal salt also results in change of hue