2

Harbour

Major Ports of the world
Basic Terms
Port structures
Port structures Breakwater
Port structures Jetties

Port terminals
Port terminals
Waves
A Wave is a rhythmic movement that
carries energy through matter or
space.
In oceans, waves move through
seawater
Waves
Caused by:
Wind
Earthquakes
Gravitational force of the Moon and
Sun.

Parts of a Wave
Crest highest point of a wave
Trough lowest point of a wave
Wave Height vertical distance between
the crest and the trough
Wavelength horizontal distance
between two crests or two troughs
Wavelength
Wave
Height
Crest
Trough
Still Water
Wave Parts
Wave Movement
When a wave passes through the
ocean, individual water molecules
move up and down but they do not
move forward or backward.
Wave Movement
When a wave breaks against the
shore, the crest outruns the trough
and the crest collapses.
Called a breaker.
In this case, water does move
forward and backward.
Waves Caused by Wind
When wind blows across a body of
water, friction causes the water to
move along with the wind.
Wave Height depends on
Wind speed
Distance over which the wind blows
Length of time the wind blows
Tides
The rise and fall in sea level is called a
tide.
Caused by a giant wave.
One low-tide/high-tide cycle takes about
12 hrs and 25 min.
Tidal range is the difference in ocean
level between high-tide and low-tide
What is the Tidal Range?
HT = 30 ft, LT = 20 ft
HT = 20 ft, LT = 12 ft
HT = 50 ft, LT = 20 ft
Gravitational Effect of the Moon
Two big bulges of water form on the
Earth:
one directly under the moon
another on the exact opposite side

As the Earth spins, the bulges follow
the moon.
Gravitational Effect of the Sun
Spring Tides
Earth, Moon, and Sun are lined up
High Tides are higher and Low Tides
are lower than normal
Gravitational Effect of the Sun
Neap Tides
Earth, Moon, and Sun form right angles
High Tides are lower and Low Tides are
higher than normal
Hydrographic Surveying


What is Seabed Mapping ?
Why is Bathymetry Important ?

What is Bathymetry?
Bathymetry provides information about water depth
Bathymetry gives a descriptive picture of the ocean bottom terrain, revealing
the size, shape and distribution of seabed features
Full detail with high resolution bathymetry
Limited detail on hydrographic
chart
Banaba Island, Kiribati
Bathymetry is Basic Information
For Science
Oceanography, geology, biology, ecology

For Economics and Infrastructure
Resource exploration, cable routing, shipping

For Management and Policy
Fisheries, Maritime Boundaries, Marine Protected Areas
Niutao Island, Tuvalu
1952 marine chart

2004 multibeam survey results
Spaceborne
Bathymetric Mapping Tools
Airborne
Shipborne
10,000m
2m
NEARSHORE OFFSHORE
barrier
reef
lagoon fringing
reef
Tide
Gauge


Echosounder Operation
Echosounder
GPS
Seabed
Transmitted Reflected
Positioning using GPS
Uses acoustic energy (sound)
Pulse of sound travels through the water
column
Lapse in time converted into distance
Small boat Single
beam ES operation
GPS
singlebeam
echosounder
control
system
Skilled
people
Sea Level data is essential to reduce
soundings to a vertical datum.


Multibeam Echosounder


Shipborne Bathymetry
Global ship tracks. (Becker 2008)
Niue EEZ multibeam
Spatial coverage is
sparse & irregular

Quality often poor

To survey seafloor would
take:
> 100 ship-years
~ $1 billion

Lau Basin
multibeam
Fiji-Tonga are well explored.
Near 100% multibeam
coverage

Neighbouring Niue has
sparse coverage



Spaceborne Satellite Altimetry
Satellites use radar to measure sea
surface heights

Sealevel is higher around large
features like mountains on the
seabed (seamounts)

Local tilt in sealevel is converted
into gravity deflections

Gravity models are used to predict
seafloor topography
Coastal Erosion
Coastal Erosion
Hwy 87
Texas Coast
Infrastructure
Property
Environment
Beach Nourishment
Coastal Structures
Break waters: (rubble mound, sheet pile, stone asphalt,
Dolos, concrete cassions, floating structures
(coastal & offshore))

Jetties & Groins (normal to the shorelines)

Sea walls
Bulkheads, Revetments, G-tubes

Sand Bypassing (continue the littoral process; passive
and active)

Ports, Harbors and Marinas
Shore Protection Projects- Breakwaters
Shore Protection Projects- Breakwaters

RUBBLE
MOUND
BREAK-
WATER

VERTICAL BREAKWATER FIGURES:
Shore Protection Projects- Groins
Shore Protection Projects- Groins
Shore Protection Projects- Groins
Shore Protection Projects- Revetments

Different Kinds of Dolos
Concrete & Reinforced Concrete
Shore Protection Projects- Seawalls
Construction of Galveston seawall ~ 1902
New South Wales and Queensland, Australia
Sand Bypass Facility
Jetties at the
entrance of
Tweed River
Outlet of the sand pump