Fabric Knowledge 101

FABRIC KNOWLEDGE 101

Fabric Knowledge 101
A BRIEF HISTORY
6000 B.C. : First recorded
textiles
2600 B.C. : First written
record of fabric dyeing in the
Middle East
775 B.C. : Textiles refined by
Greeks
500 A.D. : Cut and sewn
clothing common




Fabric Knowledge 101
A BRIEF HISTORY
1589 : First hand powered
knitting machine
1773 : Modern shuttle loom
invented
1894 : First artificial fiber
(rayon) invented
1935 : First petrochemical
fiber (nylon) invented
1959 : Spandex invented




Fabric Knowledge 101
VEGETABLE FIBERS
Examples: Cotton, linen,
hemp

All composed of cellulose
molecules


Fabric Knowledge 101
ANIMAL FIBERS
Examples: Wool, silk,
cashmere, angora, furs

All composed of keratin
molecules
Fabric Knowledge 101
SYNTHETIC FIBERS
Examples: Polyester, nylon,
Modal, Tencel

Composed of either
petrochemicals or cellulose
Fabric Knowledge 101
LUXURY FIBERS ORIGINS
Wool
Cashmere Cotton
Silk
Embroidery
Linen
Fabric Knowledge 101
Fibers
Yarn
Fabric Knowledge 101
WOVEN FABRICS
Yarns are arranged to form a
grid-like structure

When cut, the fabric tends
to fray

Flexible only diagonally
(bias)
Fabric Knowledge 101
KNITTED FABRICS
Yarns looped together to
form a net-like structure

When cut, the fabric tend to
curl

Flexible in all directions
Fabric Knowledge 101
NON-WOVEN FABRICS
Fibers entangled together to
form a matted structure

When cut, the fabric edge
stays stable

Slightly flexible but doesnt
retain shape after stretched
Fabric Knowledge 101
Fabric Knowledge 101
Fabric Knowledge 101
Fabric Knowledge 101
FABRICS
Judged mostly by look, feel
and promises of durability
Fiber content is only one
factor
Weave and fabric treatments
influence this more than fiber
Ex: Raw silk fabric isnt always
Silky

Fabric Knowledge 101
3 BASIC WEAVE TYPES
Fabric Knowledge 101
PLAIN WEAVE
Fabric Knowledge 101
TWILL WEAVE
Fabric Knowledge 101
SATIN WEAVE
SATIN
Fabric Knowledge 101
COMMON QUESTIONS
Fabric Knowledge 101
WHAT MAKES A FABRIC SHINY?
The more the surface makes light rays scatter, the duller a surface will appear
Fabric Knowledge 101
WHAT MAKES A FABRIC SHINY?
Luster is determined by how smooth the fabric is

Fabric Knowledge 101
WHAT MAKES A FABRIC SHINY?
Microscopic smoothness of the fibers

Fabric Knowledge 101
WHAT MAKES A FABRIC SHINY?
Amount of uninterrupted yarns in the fabric. Longer distance = smoother = shinier
Fabric Knowledge 101
WHAT MAKES A FABRIC SHINY?
Finishing of fabric might raise the nap (ex: peaching) or slick it down (ex: waxing)
Fabric Knowledge 101
WHAT MAKES A FABRIC WARM?
Insulation is determined by how well the fabric is able to trap air
Fabric Knowledge 101
WHAT MAKES A FABRIC WARM?
Microscopic smoothness of the fibers

Fabric Knowledge 101
WHAT MAKES A FABRIC WARM?
Empty space in a fabric increases insulation

Fabric Knowledge 101
WHAT MAKES A FABRIC WARM?
The darker the color, the more light energy is absorbed = warmer

Fabric Knowledge 101
WHAT MAKES A FABRIC SOFT?
The slimmer a fiber, the softer it will tend to feel

Fabric Knowledge 101
BUT NOT ALWAYS!

Fabric Knowledge 101
WHAT MAKES A FABRIC SOFT?
Weave and fabric finish are just as important as fiber

Fabric Knowledge 101
WHAT MAKES FABRIC ITCHY?
Thinner fibers = more likely to bend at ends when in contact with skin
Fabric Knowledge 101
WHAT MAKES FABRIC EXPENSIVE?
Longer fibers = less hardy of a plant = higher maintenance to farm

1.) Sea Island

2.) Egyptian

3.) Pima

4.) American Long Staple

5.) American Short Staple

6.) Asia Short Staple

$1/yd
$75/yd
$
Fabric Knowledge 101
WHAT MAKES FABRIC EXPENSIVE?
Thinner fibers = more delicate = more yarns in fabric to weave / slower
Fabric Knowledge 101
WHAT MAKES FABRIC DURABLE?
The more balanced friction is distributed on yarns = more durable fabric
MORE DURABLE LESS DURABLE
Fabric Knowledge 101
WHAT MAKES FABRIC DURABLE?
Natural fiber susceptible to insects eating it
Fabric Knowledge 101
WHAT MAKES A FABRIC DURABLE?
The more uniform the fiber texture, the less dirt it can hold

Fabric Knowledge 101
QUESTIONS?