Nama : Muhamad Nazar Gasnawi

NPM : 112 160 025

Program Studi : Teknik Pertambangan
Kelas :C
Dosen Pembimbing : Suharwanto, Ir, MT
Shoreline System
 Waves

• Most shoreline processes are

influenced by wave action
– Waves transmit energy
– Wind generated waves dominate
– Orientation of waves to shoreline
 Waves
• Breakers
– Waves reaching shallow water become
shorter, higher, slower; they begin to
stack up
– Waves break as wave base drags bottom
– Wave crest moves forward of base
– Wave breaks & swash washes up the
beach face, backwash flow down
 Wave Refraction

• Waves are bent as a portion slows

– Waves drag on the bottom & slow
– Shoreline is uneven, some deeper areas
– Wave is bent, becomes parallel to shore
– Wave energy is:
• concentrated on headlands
• dissipated in bays
Fig. 15.4 Wave refraction along a coast
Wave refraction
 Longshore Drift
• One of the most important shoreline
processes
• Occurs when waves hit the shore at an
angle
– Breakers push material up the beach at an
angle
– Backwash pulls material down
perpendicular to shore
Fig. 15.6a. Geometry of longshore drift
 Coastal Erosion

• Erosion is caused by the abrasive

action of moving sand & gravel
– Tectonics, rock type & land surface
processes contribute to shaping a coast
– Hydraulic pressure of breaking waves is a
large contributor to mechanical erosion
 Coastal Erosion
• Sea cliffs & wave-cut platforms
– Sea cliffs are produced by undercutting
• Cliff retreats over time as cliff face collapses
• Waves erode & remove debris
– Wave-cut platforms develop
• Flat surface commonly visible at low tide
• Widening platform protects cliff
– Beaches may develop on wide platforms
Waves cut like a horizontal saw
Sea cliff
 Coastal Erosion

• Sea caves, arches, and stacks develop

as refracted waves attack headlands
– Refracted waves focus energy on
headland sides
– Zones of bedrock weakness allow
preferential erosion
– Caves form, evolve into arches and stacks
 L: 1969 R: 1987
Collapse of a sea arch, California
 Coastal Erosion
• Coastal erosion processes create
indicators of sea level
– Changes in sea level cause new coastline
features to be formed
• e.g., Wave-cut platforms may be found
above current sea level
• Human records show rates of erosion
– Commonly as high as 2-3 m/yr or more
Fig. 15.8a. Coastal erosion features
 Coastal Deposition

• Shoreline systems receive sediment

from a variety of sources
– Much is land derived, river transported
– Moved by longshore drift
– Deposited in low energy areas
– Shell and coral debris is common in
tropical regions
 Coastal Deposition

• Beaches
– Shore built of unconsolidated sediments,
usually sand sized particles but can be
gravel, v.fine sand or silt
– Shape & size of beach dependent on
wave energy
– Beach slope is often a function of particle
size, coarser = steeper beach face
 Coastal Deposition

• Spits
– Form by longshore drift of sediment
– Extend across mouth of bays & estuaries
• Tombolos
– Outward built beach connecting to an
island
– Island refracts waves away from beach
Fig. 15.14. Longshore
drift creates spits
 Coastal Deposition
• Barrier islands
– Offshore islands parallel to shoreline
– Common on gently sloping coasts
– Separated from mainland by a lagoon
– Islands may migrate by
• Longshore drift parallel to coast
• Toward/away from the coast by sea level
change
 Shoreline Evolution
• Shoreline evolution may be rapid
• Regional scale evolution occurs over
longer time frames
– Changes in sea level (what event?)
– Tectonic uplift or subsidence
• Utimately shorelines tend to develop
long straight or gently curved
coastlines; headlands are eroded; bays
fill up with sediment
 Shoreline Evolution

• Changes move to equally distribute

wave energy
– Shoreline equilibrium occurs when forces
are balanced
• Wave energy equal along entire coastline
• Input-export of sediment is equal; longshore
drift is just sufficient to transport sediment;
no large scale erosion or deposition
 Shoreline Evolution

• Storm surges produce disruptions in

shoreline processes and features
– Unusually high energy levels
– Rapid changes in coastal morphology
– Sediment may washover barrier islands
– New inlets may be created
– Surges may be up to 7 m high
Washover fan
 Storm Surge: Destruction of Bolivar
Peninsula before & after Hurricane Ike,
September, 2008
 Reefs

• Coastal feature of biological origin

• Complex community of coral, algae &
other marine animals living in warm
seas
• Reef structure has large influence on
coastal processes
 Reef Ecology

• Marine life is dependent on narrow

range of environmental conditions
– Temperature: at least 20°C
– Salinity: 27 – 40 parts per thousand
– Water depth (no deeper than 75 m)&
clarity
• Excellent indicators of past conditions
 Types of Reefs
• Fringing reefs - narrow reefs, 0.5-1 km
wide, attached to land masses
• Barrier reefs - separated from mainland by a
lagoon up to 20 km wide
• Platform reefs - isolated patches growing in
warm shallow areas of continental shelf
• Atolls - roughly circular reefs surrounding
shallow lagoon
 Classification of Coasts
• Based on plate tectonics
– Active or Convergent margin coasts
• Seismically active, mountainous, rugged sea
cliffs, raised marine terraces, narrow cont.
shelf, deep water close to shore, lg waves,
rapid rates of erosion
– Passive margin coasts
• Originally formed by rifting
• Tectonically stable, shallow water, low wave
energy (deposition), large deltas, broad
coastal plains, wide continental shelves
Tectonic Classification of Coasts