Chapter 24

Facial Makeup
 Learning Objectives
• Describe the various types of cosmetics and their
uses for facial makeup.
• Explain how to use color theory when choosing
cosmetics for makeup application.
• Identify different facial types and summarize basic
makeup techniques to alter them.
• Name and describe the two types of artificial
eyelashes.
• List tips for creating special-occasion makeup for
eyes, cheeks, and lips.
 Introduction
• The field of makeup artistry is a very rewarding segment
of cosmetology.
• The makeup application techniques you employ will vary
as greatly as the skin types and personalities of your
clients.
• The goal of effective makeup application is to enhance
the client's individuality, rather than offering a ‘make-
over’ based on some ideal standard.
 Describe Facial Makeup and Their Uses
• Foundation – tinted cosmetic also known as base
makeup that is used to cover or even out skin
coloring; conceal minor imperfections of skin; and
protect the skin from climate, dirt, and debris.
• Available in liquid, stick, and cream forms.
• Primer – used to help disguise less than perfect
skin
 Foundation Chemistry
• Liquid – water-based foundations with emollients

• Oil-free – intended for oilier skin types

• Cream – oil-based and thicker than liquid

 Concealers
• Hides dark eye circles
• Covers blemishes and discolorations
• Available in tins, jars, or tubes with wands
Face Powders

• Adds matte finish, absorbs

oil, and sets foundation

• Comes loose or pressed

• Mixture of talc or
cornstarch and pigment
 Eye Shadow
• Accentuates eye shape
• Compliments eye color

© Kubais/Shutterstock.com
 Eyeliner
• Used to define the eyes
• Makes the lash line appear
fuller

© Africa Studio/Shutterstock.com
 Eyebrow Color
• Used to add color and contour brows

• Available in pencil and powder form

• Should not harshly contrast with haircolor

 Cheek Color
• Called blush or rouge

• Comes in powder, gel, or

cream

• Application should look

soft and natural
 Lip Color
• Lipstick or gloss
– Formulas of oils, waxes, and dyes

– Used to enhance or correct the

shape of the lips

• Lip liner
– Used to outline lips; keeps lip color
from feathering
 Mascara
• Used to darken and thicken lashes

• Polymer product: Includes water,

wax, thickeners, film formers, and
preservatives

© kedrov/Shutterstock.com
• Some contain lengthening fibers
 Other Cosmetics
• Eye makeup removers

• Greasepaint

• Cake (pancake) makeup

 Makeup Brushes and Other Tools
• Hair – the term for the bristles
• Ferrule – the metal part that holds the brush
intact and supports the strength of the bristles.
• Handle – comes in a wide range of lengths and
can be made of wood, acrylic, plastic, or metal.
• Gently cleanse brushes with an antibacterial
detergent followed by a commercial cleaning
solution.

(continues)
 Makeup Brushes and Other Tools (continued)
• Powder brush • Brow brush
• Blush brush • Tweezers
• Concealer brush • Eyelash curler
• Lip brush • Pencil sharpener
• Eye shadow brush
• Eyeliner brush
• Angle brush
• Lash comb
 Single-Use Implements
• Sponges
• Powder puffs
• Mascara wands
• Spatulas
• Disposable lip brushes
• Sponge-tipped shadow applicators
• Cotton swabs
• Cotton pads or puffs
How to Use Color Theory for Makeup Application
Warm and Cool Colors
• Warm and cool colors form
the basis of all makeup
application.
• Three main factors to
consider when choosing
colors for a client: skin
color, eye color, and hair
color.
Determining Skin Color
 Selecting Makeup Colors
• Fair skin color

• Medium skin color

• Deep skin color

 Complementary Colors for Eyes
• Neutrals are safest
• Blue eyes
– Orange, gold, peach, copper, mauve, plum, taupe,
camel
• Green eyes
– Brown-based reds, red-orange, red-violet, violet,
coppers, rusts, pinks, plums, mauve, purples
• Brown eyes
– Can wear any color: Greens, blues, grays, silvers
 Adding Cheek and Lip Color
• Cheek and lip color
– Coordinate in same color family as eye makeup

• Hair and eye color

– Coordination of hair and eye color with eye makeup
Hair Color and Eye Color
 Mature Skin
• Older clients that may have
uneven, textured skin due
to wrinkles or sun damage.
• Shimmer, glitter, or frosted
colors can accent dry

© Kurhan/Shutterstock.com
patches or wrinkles.
 Alter Face Shapes with Makeup
• Highlight
• Contour
Analyzing Face Shape: Oval
Analyzing Face Shape: Round
Analyzing Face Shape: Square
Analyzing Face Shape: Triangular
Analyzing Face Shape: Heart-Shaped
Analyzing Face Shape: Diamond
Analyzing Face Shape: Oblong
 Altering the Forehead Area
• Low forehead

• Protruding forehead
 Altering the Nose and Chin Areas
• Large or protruding nose

• Short and flat nose

• Broad nose

(continues)
 Altering the Nose and Chin Areas (continued)
• Protruding chin and receding nose

• Receding chin

• Sagging double chin

 Altering the Jawline
• Broad jawline

• Narrow jawline
Altering Eye Shape: Round Eyes

© survald/Shutterstock.com
Altering Eye Shape: Close-Set Eyes
Altering Eye Shape: Protruding or Bulging Eyes
• This can be minimized by blending the deeper
color shadow over the prominent part of the
upper lid.
• Blend the color from the outer corners inward
toward the center, carrying it just past the
creases.
Altering Eye Shape: Hooded Eyes
 Corrective Makeup for the Eyes

Small eyes Wide-set eyes

Deep-set eyes
Altering Eyebrows

Ideal shape

(continues)
 Altering Eyebrows (continued)
• Low forehead
• Wide-set eyes
• Close-set eyes
• Round face
• Long face
• Square face
 Eyelash Enhancers
• Lash enhancers and lengtheners contain fibers
to make lashes look longer and fuller.

• Latisse®, a product containing bimatoprost,

shows a difference in two to four months of
regular use.
The Lips

(continues)
The Lips (continued)
 Skin Tones and Camoflaging Techniques
• Skin tones

– Ruddy skin (red)

– Sallow skin (yellow)

• Camouflaging techniques
 Steps for Basic Makeup Application
• Step-by-step procedure to enhance your client's
features.

(continues)
 Steps for Basic Makeup Application (continued)
Client Consultation

• Consultation area

• Lighting

• Information gathering

(continues)
 Steps for Basic Makeup Application (continued)
Apply Foundation

• Match to skin tone.

© Pogonici/Shutterstock.com
• Blend with disposable
makeup sponge.

• Avoid line of demarcation.

(continues)
 Steps for Basic Makeup Application (continued)

• Apply concealer • Apply eye shadow

• Apply powder • Apply eyeliners

• Apply eyebrow pencil • Apply blush

• Apply eyebrow powder • Apply lip color

• Apply mascara
 Apply Artificial Eyelashes
• Strip lashes
• Remove strip eyelashes
• Individual lashes
© iStockphoto.com\Shariff Che\'Lah
Special-Occasion Makeup for Eyes

Option 1: Striking contour eyes

© Kett Cosmetics. Makeup and photography by Sheila McKenna.

(continues)
Special-Occasion Makeup for Eyes (continued)

Option 2: Dramatic smoky eyes

 Special-Occasion Makeup for Cheeks
• Use a darker blush color under the cheekbones to
add definition.
• Apply with a blush brush and blend carefully.
• Add a brighter, lighter cheek color to the apples of
the cheeks and blend.
• Use a cheek color with shimmer or glitter over the
cheekbones for highlights. You may use cream or
powder colors.
 Special-Occasion Makeup for Lips
• Line lips, fill with lip pencil, and blot.

• Add lip color.

• Apply gloss to center of lips.

 Summary and Review
• How to identify the basic face shapes and that the oval
shape has artistically ideal proportions and features.
• Corrective makeup, shadowing, and highlighting,
we can create the illusion of oval for almost any
face shape.
• We can contour the face through shadowing and
highlighting, and minimize facial features that are
unflattering.
• How to use corrective makeup procedures.
• Being able to effectively apply corrective makeup
will make you as a professional very valuable to
your clients.
 Chapter Review Questions
1. List eight types of facial cosmetics and how they
are used.
2. List the two color temperatures and the range of
shades they each encompass.
3. What is the purpose of special occasion
makeup?
 Chapter Review Questions (continued)
4. What is the purpose of face shape altering
makeup?
5. Name and describe the two types of artificial
eyelashes.
6. List the key cosmetics used in the basic
makeup procedure in the order in which they
are applied.