LIPSTICK PRESENTED BY, s.sundararaman first m.pharm Dept., of pharm.

analysis

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Points to be studied
Definition

Characteristics
Composition

of lipsticks

Evaluation

of finished products

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Definition: Also called as lip cosmetics, widely used by women It may be refer as color cosmetics . Lipstick is a cosmetic product containing pigments, oils, waxes, and emollients that applies color and texture to the lips There are many varieties of lipstick. Lippy is a common British word for lipstick.
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Characteristics of Lipsticks
Should cover lips adequately Long last effect Make lips soft Must adhere firmly to lips without being brittle & tacky Good degree of quality Completely free from grittiness Non- drying Non- irritating to skin of lips Desirable degree of plasticity Should have high retention of colors intensity without any change in shades Pleasant odor & flavour.

Easily applicable & removable Stable both physically & chemically

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Composition
Composition Oil

Wax mixture

mixture Bromo mixture Colors ,Preservatives Fragrance ,Antioxidants Surfactants & other additives .

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WAXES The gloss & hardness are generally depends on characteristics & quantity of waxes. Best characteristic is obtained by using mixture of waxes of different m.p & adjusting the final m.p. by incorporating a sufficient amount of high m.p. wax Various waxes used in lipstick : OILS : oil mixture is required to blend properly with the waxes to provide a suitable film on the applied lip skin
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Also acts as solvent in some formulation. Acts as dispersing agent for insoluble pigments. The ideal mixture of oil should produce the product, easily spread & produce a thin film with good covering power . Examples: Castor oil Tetrahydrofurfuryl alcohol (THFA) & esters Fatty acid alkylamides Paraffin oil Isopropyl myristate Isopropyl palmitate Butyl stearate .

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BROMO MIXTURE : Maintain the physical form of the formulation Also called as bromo acids Two classes: Red : gives red or reddish blue stain Orange : gives pink to yellowish pink stain. About 2-3% bromo acids are used in lipstick Solvent used to be mixed with bromo acids. Castor oil & butyl stearate THFA & esters like acetate, stearate & benzoate Glyceryl monostearate or monolaurate & diethylene glycol monostearate PG or PEG
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Examples of bromo mixture: Bromo acid : 15 gm PG : 200gm PG monomyristate : 100 gm Procedure: Mix bromo acid solution & PG (for clearing each other) Add PG monomyristate Which gives bromo acid that easily mixes with mineral oil & castor oil & produces a homogenous mass with waxes.
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COLORS : Most important from commercial & appearance point of view. In olden days, carmine was widely used, but nowadays various other are available. Color in lipstick is imparted by two ways: By staining the skin with soln of dyestuff which can penetrate the outer layer of skin SOLUBLE DYES By covering the lips with a colored layer which serves to hide any skin roughness & give a smooth appearance ---- INSOLUBLE DYES
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Soluble Dyes / Staining Dyes : Example: Fluorescein, Eosin Insoluble Dyes / Nonstaining Dyes / lake colors : Example: Lakes of Calcium, Barium, Aluminium, Strontium Used in 10 15 % concentration based on shade TiO2 is generally used in conc. of 1% for pink shade

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PRESERVATIVES : Used to prevent microbial growth Example: 0.1% propyl parahydrohybenzoate in 0.1%. Higher conc. of preservative can cause slightly burning sensation or allergic reaction. FRAGRANCE : Essential component of lipstick Used to mask bad odor of fatty or wax Used to impart attractive flavor Conc. 2-4% Qualities for selection: Free from irritating effect Free from
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ANTIOXIDANTS : Incorporated to prevent rancidification of oily base during storage. Generally used in combination Example: BHA, BHT, Propyl gallate, Citric acid SURFACTANTS :Used to promote wetting & stabilize the dispersion of insoluble pigments in lipstick base ADDITIVES: used for various purposes Oil soluble sunscreen: filter the sunrays & protect lip skin from sun burn. Silicon fluid: used as fixative & prevent colors, from bleeding on lips. PVP: (conc. 0.5 1%) film former on lips & reduce allergic reaction of other ings. in lipstick. Isopropyl linoleate:
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Evaluation of lipsticks
Color control Determination of Melting Point (Heat Test ) Softening Point Microbial Testing Rancidity Rupture Test Breaking Load Test.

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Color control Color control of lipstick is critical, and one only has to see the range of colors available from a manufacturer to be aware of this. The dispersion of the pigment is checked stringently when a new batch is manufactured, and the color must be carefully controlled when the lipstick mass is reheated. Colorimetric equipment is used to provide some control on the shades of lipstick. This equipment gives a numerical reading of the shade, when mixed, so it can identically match previous batches. Matching of reheated batches is done visually, so careful time and environment controls are placed on lipstick mass when it is not immediately used.15 s.b.college of pharmacy

DETERMINATION OF M.P. : . The lipstick base should have a M.P. between 55 - 750C. (600 C ideal) METHOD: Sample- approx. 50 mg Melt & fill into a glass capillary tube open on both the ends. Cool the capillary tube with ice for 2 hours Fasten the capillary tube to a thermometer. Place a beaker full of water on a heating plate with a magnetic stirrer. Start heating & stirring at slow & fixed speed. The temp at which material moves along the capillary tube is
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SOFTENING POINT : A lipstick should withstand the range of conditions to which it will subjected in the consumers handbag. It should be resistant to varying temp & be just as easy to apply in the hot as in cold weather. Softening point range 50-550C. Method: Ring and Ball method Second Method A ring or support orifice is taken & the lipstick to be tested is inserted into it. Extra mass above & below the orifice is removed using a sharp blade leaving a tablet of lipstick fitted into the ring.
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This is placed in refrigerator (60C) for about 10 min. Ring is tied onto a stand or bar. A beaker containing 500 ml water at room temp. is placed on a hot plate having a magnetic stirrer. A steel ball is delicately placed on the lipstick tablet. The bar is with support is then inserted into the beaker till it submerges into it. Heating & slow agitation is then begun. Temp is monitored using a thermometer. The temp at which the lipstick mass & steel balls are loosened & falls to the bottom of the beaker is the S.P.

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MICROBIAL TESTING : Contamination from raw materials, moulds, storage kettles or lipstick container can lead to microbial growth. Microbial testing is suggested in IS:9875:1990, The test consists of plating a known mass of the sample on two selected culture media specifically suitable for the growth of bacteria & fungi incubating them for a specified period to permit the development of visual colonies for counting . The limit is, not more than 100 o/gm. RANCIDITY : Rancidification is the decomposition of fats,
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Is the oxidation of castor oil or other waxy or lipoidal ingredients. It leads to obnoxious odor, bad taste & sticky product & sometimes change of color of the product. Testing of rancidity can be done by determining its peroxide number. BREAKING LOAD TEST : The test is to find out the value of maximum load that a lipstick can withstand before it breaks. The protruded lipstick salve is subjected to a number of weights hanging from it. The weight at which the lipsticks breaks is its Breaking Load. Weights can be replaced by using increasing increments of water from a burette.

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Rupture Test : In the Rupture Test, the lipstick is placed in two holders, in the extended position. Weight is added to the holder on the lipstick portion at 30-second intervals until the lipstick ruptures. The pressure required to rupture the lipstick is then checked against the manufacturer's standards. Since there are no industry standards for these tests, each manufacturer sets its own parameters.
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Thank you

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